RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Here is the interesting part. They made the front conversion supplied the hexes for the rear, made wheels for the front, but just left the rear wheels for other to make. In fact they said go use losi 22 wheels, lol. Kinda funny. It was like an 80% effort.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 490
From: Mesa, AZ
Hex adapters on buggy...a few good things:
-front tires don't have bearings in the wheels
-you can put front tires on the back to break them in (typically on the street)
-Rear wheel/tire shared between TLR22, B4.1, and RB5 = all 3 major brands
-Front wheel shared between B4.1 and RB5
-Reduces broken wheel pins, and no wheel pins to fall out
I personally don't re-use wheels so I don't mind switching over. I only keep 1-2 pairs of each tire tread/compound and every time I mount new ones of the same tread, I throw away my oldest set.
-front tires don't have bearings in the wheels
-you can put front tires on the back to break them in (typically on the street)
-Rear wheel/tire shared between TLR22, B4.1, and RB5 = all 3 major brands
-Front wheel shared between B4.1 and RB5
-Reduces broken wheel pins, and no wheel pins to fall out
I personally don't re-use wheels so I don't mind switching over. I only keep 1-2 pairs of each tire tread/compound and every time I mount new ones of the same tread, I throw away my oldest set.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,325
From: Grand Portage, MN
I am currently using 1 degree hubs in the rear and I keep seeing everyone using 0 degree ones, for what conditions are 0 degrees better?
I would assume for high traction where you want less rear grip?
here I am always looking for more rear traction. going to start to go up in shock weight in the front and shorten the camber link
opinions?
I would assume for high traction where you want less rear grip?
here I am always looking for more rear traction. going to start to go up in shock weight in the front and shorten the camber link
opinions?
you should not have to work that hard to get a b4 to hook up in the rear. Remember 90% of the setup is tires, if you have the wrong or worn out tires, you can wrench till the cows come home and it will never be right. No amount of wrenching will ever make up for tires. So when you ask about how to get more rear traction, the assumption is normally that you have the best tires for your track/application and you don't slam the throttle as you enter or exit the turn.
I was trying to use the .5 hubs because i thought i wanted to square up quicker coming out of the corner, so i could get on it sooner, but it only made me rotate less in the middle of the turn and i didnt like it at all.
Can you describe the tires and track/driving conditions you are dealing with?
I was trying to use the .5 hubs because i thought i wanted to square up quicker coming out of the corner, so i could get on it sooner, but it only made me rotate less in the middle of the turn and i didnt like it at all.
Can you describe the tires and track/driving conditions you are dealing with?




