The weight of your chassis and even the difference in weight from the stock chassis to the rcrd dwarf the weight of the ESC. This car just feels like the weight is down low. You can get it pretty wonky over a jump and it just seems to pull itself back down onto its wheels. I've driven standard, +8 and this +12 and this is by far the most stable over jumps and through the bumpy sections. If you can't get it to rotate properly you can get lost in the corners on a short, tight track though.

Quick question - I switched to the shaved u-brace carbon towers over weekend. Now the car is supper loose in the rear now almost undriveable. How manny washers are you guys using and which hole on the C-tower thanks.

Position 1 with 1 washer (.030" or 1 blue washer that measures .8mm) inside and hole B on the C tower. Havent tried it out yet but I needed to free up the car from 2 weeks ago so your results sound promising for what I'm after.

I used shaved Ubrace no washers with C hub for indoor med bite surfaces. A Hub with reg Ubrace was what most preferred with rougher surfaces, aka out door tracks.

personally I used the shaved / C combo everywhere because I just didn't like the way my car felt with anything else. Try both... see which one suits your style better.

oh and mid hole on tower.

hideeho
I had a similar problem (loose on power, but good off) recently & solved it by raising the anti kick a good bit (1* to 3*), lengthen the rear arms (inside on tower, no washers, top outside on hub), put on the avid carbon hub tower &, for the biggest effect, turned the current limiter down. this setup locked the rear end in wonderfully! it had just enough rotation to get it around a hair pin.

I also got hold of a cheap ($7.50 shipped ) t4.1 chassis, so I gave that a try also. 1st thing I noticed was it handled like it is in slow motion (which at my skill level is a very good thing ) after playing with the tunning in morning practice I got it down to just a touch of push. that allows me to late brake & get back on the power MUCH earlier (with higher current limiter settings), start the rear rotation & catch it & launch much easier. I can see where a driver with more skill would prefer the shorter chassis, but for now this chassis is wonderfull for me.

almost forgot, what put the handling over the top w/ the t4 chassis was a shorty lipo all the way to the rear. I didnt like it as much in the front & didnt like the full size lipo anywhere.

Keep waiting...

I discussed this exact issue with most of the AE guys while attending the Cactus Classic this year. The word is they are going to release the BB's as an upgrade kit. None of the pros knew when the Worlds kits were going to be upgraded, but speculated it was a ways off. But for sure everyone said the BB upgrade kit was coming out way before they upgrade the actual Worlds kits.

I was told the delay was due to the lack of availability of springs. The BB upgrade kits are ready to go, but AE had not yet finalized on the springs for the kits. It sounded like they are manufacturing their own springs for the kit, as opposed to having a third party do it for them.

I say AE should have Kyosho or Avid rebrand their springs for AE and gets these things out the door! Lets gooo!

New they are $70 a pair on Amain

I am guessing the AE ones will be about the same.

AVID's new spring shock collar now available.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...ccesories.html

Are they threaded or simply held in place by set screw?

Thanks,
Kevin

"These collars are used by sliding them over your stock AE collars and securing them in place with the included SS set screws."

they look nice, but i was hoping for them to be threaded

They slide over the stock AE spring retainer and the set screw locks it on. Pretty smart, but I would have liked to see a 1 piece design. Half the price of the Ghea's though.

AAAAHHH Lightbulb goes on!!!! Makes sense!!!

Thanks,
Kevin

+1

Not looking to add another piece plus a set screw to each shock. I was really hoping for an Avid version of the Ghea collar.

I just put in a the avid steering in my b4. They recommend I use an alum servo arm. Most of the ones on A Main are tapped for 3mm hardware. Will that be an issue? The ball cups for the 3mm hardware are larger right?