JSP 619 come see the Kyosho this wkend. Im running that motor a Futaba Race.I can help you out too. Im using a 2058

My pit guy has an Orion with a big @$$ bolt on the side to hold the carb in place.
What port is that motor. Dont have pics yet

Yes, Ron I was borrowing your tuning method.

Ron hit on all points needed for tuning an LM based engine..

No worries, the system just seems to work well on most type of nitro engines, that is the most important thing. Just make sure that when you are telling people about this you point out to them that after setting the HS needle that they have to come back and re-adjust the idle. It's pretty much a necessity. Also I'd be a little careful about the lean the HS until you do not see any increase in performance and then richen it one hour. I think that for most people this might be a little bit too on edge (you have to keep in mind that most people that we end up needing to walk through this type of tuning method have limited experience). You might want to just change that to "lean the HS needle until you see the top end performance and/or speed that you are looking for" or something along those lines. The last think that you want to do is have a newer user a simplified tuning system that ends up causing a bunch of issues or blowing their engine because their engine is too lean on the HS.

Excellent advice thank you i will start double checking my motors from now on just to be sure they are right before i start break in, The guy who tought be how to break in motors was very good at it and that was one of is things was not touching the motors until they start to let go, however if i can improve my break in method i am always willing to change and add things to that procedure to make it better, and to make myself more aware of what the engine is doing throughout that process, Thank you again Ron, i hope i got your name right there between these two mills i should be good for awhile i still need to pickup a 2058 as i already have a 2013 and a 2057, i bought the 2057 for the B2 looks like i should have done a little more research as from what i have read the 2058 is the go to pipe but i plan on having all three any way, i like to be prepared and the cost of the pipes is more then reasonable, i think some were down the line i am also going to pickup one of each a B6 pro and factory team 3 port orion, i have seen the B6 in a few buggy's and man that thing rips and it sounds great too. So again i thank everyone for there help this is one of the reasons why i have stayed in this hobby for over 8 years now.

Coach ill be by sunday and check it out.

Good points Ron. One of the reasons I always say richen it back up an hour, is the most common mistake among new nitro users is to lean it too far anyway.. I figure if they go to until performance stops, and then richen it up their last move, they should be safe.. I guess it all comes into interpretation of how the instructions are read.

I don't really want to hog up this thread but I have often found that newer users will literally do exactly what you tell them to do lol! So the problem is that when someone leans an engine until the point that it will no longer accelerate for most newer drivers that do not drive consistently (as in at a consistent pace) that is going to be way too lean before they even notice it so if they then richen it 1 hour they are imho on the edge. Either way though as you mentioned it all comes down to how the instructions are interpreted

Hey guys, I saw a post a while ago where Pit Pop helped out a guy with some carb issues and one trick he used was to "glue" the slide boot in place. My question is what type of glue should be used? I want to do this but have never used CA to stick rubber to metal and if I had not looked on the forum I would have made my attempt with carb/backplate sealant.

Tire glue is all u need. Glue the out side edge where the ball connects to you linkage. The other end closer to the intake use a small zip tie and ur good to go.

Thanks Jason.

I personally use sealant on the boot if possible because it's not as destructive as CA if you need to pull it off. Even if you can get it off in one piece, you can't remove the glue from the boot to re-seal it. The CA glue (ONLY use top shelf CA like AKA, Losi Blue, Pro-Line Premium Medium) is useful when there's very little surface area. Whenever possible, I'll use sealant at both ends of the boot. If you clean everything properly and let the silicone sealant fully set, you don't even need zip ties.

That is what I was thinking but I did it before I saw your post. Thanks anyway. I will try that next time. For now I have a very small bead of Losi Blue and a zip tie and it looks solid. But I have another question. Is the slide removable? And if so how? I do not have a problem with mine but I cannot figure out how they assemble it.

Take out the idle screw, and the slide will pull out. Once apart you'll see how it works.

Hello, I recently purchased a ORN80679 CRF Alpha .21 ABI Buggy Engine (ABC/5-ports ceramic).

Break in went great. Pinch is gone and the engine has great compression. There is about 1.5 gallons on the motor now.

Problem I'm having is with getting the engine to idle properly.

Plug Changed
Fuel line Changed
Pressure Line Changed
D8 Tank changed to RC8 tank old
RC8 Old Tank changed to a new RC8 Tank

.5mm It will idle for maybe 5 sec and die
increments there out to over 1mm it will idle longer 8 - 10 at most but still die.
(Of course I'm adjusting the LSN to try and get this to work right)


More info:
Motor is always warmed with a Comp Heat heater
I'm in Iowa where it's been in the 90's and 100's for the past month with high humidity



The motor is so new I would hope it's not a bearing or an O ring somewhere.

I did seal the motor up as suggested by a guide from a TLR driver on Youtube before doing the break in as well.

Any suggestions where to go next