SC10 4x4 Thread
I'm going to be replacing all my bearings with Avid as soon as I tear it down and redo everything and clean it up.
I'm also taking a break from 4x4 sct's, I want to concentrate more on my buggies. Now that my track is going to be allowing 1/8th buggies I'm going to be running both my 1/10th and 1/8th most of the time for now, and since 1/8th is expensive to run/maintain etc I don't want to be going broke trying to run a third vehicle all the time................
I'll still be coming back to this thread checking up on who's pissing off the Coyotemiester as well as how many people WC keeps pissing off
I'm also taking a break from 4x4 sct's, I want to concentrate more on my buggies. Now that my track is going to be allowing 1/8th buggies I'm going to be running both my 1/10th and 1/8th most of the time for now, and since 1/8th is expensive to run/maintain etc I don't want to be going broke trying to run a third vehicle all the time................
I'll still be coming back to this thread checking up on who's pissing off the Coyotemiester as well as how many people WC keeps pissing off

Same for me , just the buggy for a while till I get the itch to run the Sc again ....
Think another week and I will start racing the 4x4..
Anyone that has to get P.O.over a R/c car needs to
JUST CALM DOWN

Steve Hartson, Kody Numedahl, Ty Tessman, Max Flurer and BK run the 4x4 sc10 but since Cav and Maifield don't run that class now AE is backing away from that class?
Bass Ackward logic much?
I agree that AE doesn't come in this thread and chat because of numbskulls like Coyote.
I'm sure BK is too busy to deal with this, but it would be cool if he actually gave some tips.
Bass Ackward logic much?
I agree that AE doesn't come in this thread and chat because of numbskulls like Coyote.
I'm sure BK is too busy to deal with this, but it would be cool if he actually gave some tips.
+100!
That dude needs to punch himself extremely hard, than get a Japanese massage!

Here is just a little clip where Mayfield speaks about this truck;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fv-PlwbKWig
I concur with Field's assessment, that it's overall, a good truck. It's undeniable durability and adjustability with a design like none other, are all facets of why i like this truck. I just see a ton of potential on this "against the norm", platform. Also, there instances in many high level, 1/1 scale racing classes when a new design/chassis/platform is brought to the scene, it takes a while for good setup's to catch up with the technology of the new vehicle. Often , those teams eventually improve and go on to be successful with the new radical design, that than all others try to emulate, b/c there older design is effectively out- dated, ala, f1 racing.
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 275
I have no idea how it happens, but I went through 3 screws before I decided to just keep the bent screw, since it won't survive 2 batteries before it is bent again.
went to the track again today to do more testing.. i went to 7k in the rear instead of 5k.. left the front with 20k.. the truck felt more consistent coming into the triple.. with only 7mm on the inner ballstud.. i will probably bump it up to 8mm tomorrow. overall the truck felt decent today. has anyone have issues bending the front chassis brace screw? kinda random question but ive bent that screw like 5 times!

wow okay well its just not me then.. sigh of relief.. but im so anal about my truck that i will replace it when it bends but the current screw i have in now is straight with a counter sink washer under it.. fingers crossed that it wont bend today during racing.. put it threw a good bash test yesterday and it didnt bend! but today is a different day...
i also run the xp1313.. i used the F horn that came with the kit.. fits perfect.
I've never even see that screw bent on anyone's truck not just my own. Regarding the 7mm, that is where I am currently at as well and wondered how many you can get. I've seen people say 7mm and 8mm to keep the ball stud threading the metal. I also want to ask if people are using thread lock under the spacers.
Happens when the truck gets a lawn dart landing ..
Yesterday saw a guy snap it clean off ...
Trcr has a big jump , if you land short ?
you nose it into the backside of jump
Trcr clay is just as hard concrete.

U feel a big thump on the drivers stand when it happens..
I am sure it's a matter of time for me then! I see much more losi currently on the track so don't get to the see a lot of sc10 failures.
Seems like it helped, and the price was right, but some of the more useless users on this thread won't approve because it involves sandpaper.

Because where you put the weight is as important as how much weight you add. Dual short batteries add a about 150 grams, but they do it in the middle. You gain leverage the further you move the weight away from the center of the chassis.
I know this depends on many factors, but in your opinion, on a starting setup using stick pack or saddles, what would you want your weight to be on each tire if you had say 4 little electronic scales? I see that BK has added forward weight in front of the servo. Just wondering if you suggest balanced weight between all tires, or heavier front or rear. I have a package of Jegs 1/4 ounce weights layin around...let me know.
I think you pretty much answered your own question. It depends on your track, how the truck handles in the jumps, and the steering you are getting out of the truck currently. Good thing about weight added is it is just as easily removed. Throw it on and track it to see the difference.



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