Serpent 811E Buggy Thread
#2581
Russian dooood... eta tebya moi droog
its Russian my friend. how it sounds phonetically in English, converting Cyrllic alphabet into English sounds. panemash?
its Russian my friend. how it sounds phonetically in English, converting Cyrllic alphabet into English sounds. panemash?
Last edited by mrnizzles; 07-10-2012 at 09:47 PM.
#2582
Hey, I have a front diff question for some of u...
when removing the front diff to service, change fluid, etc, do you :
A. remove only the front half, because u figured out a way to access the long 20mm screws AT THE BOTTOM of the case...
B. remove the ENTIRE front diff housing from the chassis? (requires lots of screws)
C. don't remove anything!
I'm hoping for several option 'A's ... my old 2006 thunger tiger s3 can do it this way, just 6 screws and the front half of the diff is out and no need to remove the entire diff housing.
It looks pretty grim, cuz the chassis kickup ...
Oh, and are these the bearings for the front and rear diffs?
http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html
I'm pretty sure they are, so has anyone tried them?... fitment issues? something else better?
_
when removing the front diff to service, change fluid, etc, do you :
A. remove only the front half, because u figured out a way to access the long 20mm screws AT THE BOTTOM of the case...
B. remove the ENTIRE front diff housing from the chassis? (requires lots of screws)
C. don't remove anything!
I'm hoping for several option 'A's ... my old 2006 thunger tiger s3 can do it this way, just 6 screws and the front half of the diff is out and no need to remove the entire diff housing.
It looks pretty grim, cuz the chassis kickup ...

Oh, and are these the bearings for the front and rear diffs?
http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html
I'm pretty sure they are, so has anyone tried them?... fitment issues? something else better?
_
#2583
Hey, I have a front diff question for some of u...
when removing the front diff to service, change fluid, etc, do you :
A. remove only the front half, because u figured out a way to access the long 20mm screws AT THE BOTTOM of the case...
B. remove the ENTIRE front diff housing from the chassis? (requires lots of screws)
C. don't remove anything!
I'm hoping for several option 'A's ... my old 2006 thunger tiger s3 can do it this way, just 6 screws and the front half of the diff is out and no need to remove the entire diff housing.
It looks pretty grim, cuz the chassis kickup ...
Oh, and are these the bearings for the front and rear diffs?
http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html
I'm pretty sure they are, so has anyone tried them?... fitment issues? something else better?
_
when removing the front diff to service, change fluid, etc, do you :
A. remove only the front half, because u figured out a way to access the long 20mm screws AT THE BOTTOM of the case...
B. remove the ENTIRE front diff housing from the chassis? (requires lots of screws)
C. don't remove anything!
I'm hoping for several option 'A's ... my old 2006 thunger tiger s3 can do it this way, just 6 screws and the front half of the diff is out and no need to remove the entire diff housing.
It looks pretty grim, cuz the chassis kickup ...

Oh, and are these the bearings for the front and rear diffs?
http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html
I'm pretty sure they are, so has anyone tried them?... fitment issues? something else better?
_

Right now, I'm basically taking off the whole front end of the buggy from the chassis, all because of that damn front kickup. Lol
And regarding the front/rear diff bearings, yes those would be the right ones sir! Same ones I use!
#2584
and this power supply:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Supply-12V-25A
I'm running 2s packs, and I charge them at about 4 amps. I dont like charging more than 5 amps... packs get too hot for my liking.
_
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Supply-12V-25A
I'm running 2s packs, and I charge them at about 4 amps. I dont like charging more than 5 amps... packs get too hot for my liking.
_
http://www.commonsenserc.com/product...9uvtmofuujjjn0
#2585
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 787
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Could anyone tell me if there's a good setup sheet for indoor hard packed but bumpy tracks? Is pork chop's setup good for such a situation? I'm getting a little frustrated as my lap times have slowed about a second to a second and a half since going from my mp9e to my 811e. I really like this car, actually love the car but I just feel like the setup is critical and I'm off.
#2586
setup is CRUCIAL! wrong setup, imo, this car punishes you... once the track layout changed, I was way too soft up front.
Im prob just the opposite setup as you; outside, large, big air. for that its hard springs, heavy oil and heavy sway bars up front, opposite for the rear.. anything to tune-OUT steering. maybe I should try the opt 1 steering plate.. hmmm...
if u need more steering, try soften up the front more + opt 3 steering plate, make rear camber links shorter, less rear toe-in.
if it doesnt rotate well enuff, try shortening the wheelbase by modifying the rear hubs, or maybe the alum pieces can do that?
a setup for that would be good to compare tho
.. or just try pushing the car harder.. I did that, and I improved my single best lap time by almost 1 sec. I also broke my M2C brace, but hey, a perfect race car is one that finishes first, and falls completely apart after the race!
_
Im prob just the opposite setup as you; outside, large, big air. for that its hard springs, heavy oil and heavy sway bars up front, opposite for the rear.. anything to tune-OUT steering. maybe I should try the opt 1 steering plate.. hmmm...
if u need more steering, try soften up the front more + opt 3 steering plate, make rear camber links shorter, less rear toe-in.
if it doesnt rotate well enuff, try shortening the wheelbase by modifying the rear hubs, or maybe the alum pieces can do that?
a setup for that would be good to compare tho
.. or just try pushing the car harder.. I did that, and I improved my single best lap time by almost 1 sec. I also broke my M2C brace, but hey, a perfect race car is one that finishes first, and falls completely apart after the race!
_
#2587
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 787
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Steering really isn't the issue. Ok now I thought when you measure shock length it was from the center of the screw that holds it to the standoff to the center of the pin that holds it to the arm. It looks like the serpent sheet shows measuring to the bottom of the pin, is that correct?
#2588
Steering really isn't the issue. Ok now I thought when you measure shock length it was from the center of the screw that holds it to the standoff to the center of the pin that holds it to the arm. It looks like the serpent sheet shows measuring to the bottom of the pin, is that correct?
#2589
setup is CRUCIAL! wrong setup, imo, this car punishes you... once the track layout changed, I was way too soft up front.
Im prob just the opposite setup as you; outside, large, big air. for that its hard springs, heavy oil and heavy sway bars up front, opposite for the rear.. anything to tune-OUT steering. maybe I should try the opt 1 steering plate.. hmmm...
if u need more steering, try soften up the front more + opt 3 steering plate, make rear camber links shorter, less rear toe-in.
if it doesnt rotate well enuff, try shortening the wheelbase by modifying the rear hubs, or maybe the alum pieces can do that?
a setup for that would be good to compare tho
.. or just try pushing the car harder.. I did that, and I improved my single best lap time by almost 1 sec. I also broke my M2C brace, but hey, a perfect race car is one that finishes first, and falls completely apart after the race!
_
Im prob just the opposite setup as you; outside, large, big air. for that its hard springs, heavy oil and heavy sway bars up front, opposite for the rear.. anything to tune-OUT steering. maybe I should try the opt 1 steering plate.. hmmm...
if u need more steering, try soften up the front more + opt 3 steering plate, make rear camber links shorter, less rear toe-in.
if it doesnt rotate well enuff, try shortening the wheelbase by modifying the rear hubs, or maybe the alum pieces can do that?
a setup for that would be good to compare tho
.. or just try pushing the car harder.. I did that, and I improved my single best lap time by almost 1 sec. I also broke my M2C brace, but hey, a perfect race car is one that finishes first, and falls completely apart after the race!
_
#2592

I never weighed them compared to the stock doors. I thought they might be a little lighter though.



5Likes

but i put some back with the alm braces
thanks rcmayor this is gary