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Old 07-10-2012 | 09:30 PM
  #2581  
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Russian dooood... eta tebya moi droog

its Russian my friend. how it sounds phonetically in English, converting Cyrllic alphabet into English sounds. panemash?

Last edited by mrnizzles; 07-10-2012 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 09:46 PM
  #2582  
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Hey, I have a front diff question for some of u...

when removing the front diff to service, change fluid, etc, do you :

A. remove only the front half, because u figured out a way to access the long 20mm screws AT THE BOTTOM of the case...

B. remove the ENTIRE front diff housing from the chassis? (requires lots of screws)

C. don't remove anything!


I'm hoping for several option 'A's ... my old 2006 thunger tiger s3 can do it this way, just 6 screws and the front half of the diff is out and no need to remove the entire diff housing.

It looks pretty grim, cuz the chassis kickup ...

Oh, and are these the bearings for the front and rear diffs?

http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html

I'm pretty sure they are, so has anyone tried them?... fitment issues? something else better?

_
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Old 07-10-2012 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mrnizzles
Hey, I have a front diff question for some of u...

when removing the front diff to service, change fluid, etc, do you :

A. remove only the front half, because u figured out a way to access the long 20mm screws AT THE BOTTOM of the case...

B. remove the ENTIRE front diff housing from the chassis? (requires lots of screws)

C. don't remove anything!


I'm hoping for several option 'A's ... my old 2006 thunger tiger s3 can do it this way, just 6 screws and the front half of the diff is out and no need to remove the entire diff housing.

It looks pretty grim, cuz the chassis kickup ...

Oh, and are these the bearings for the front and rear diffs?

http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html

I'm pretty sure they are, so has anyone tried them?... fitment issues? something else better?

_
As for front diff removal, I'm in the same boat as you...
Right now, I'm basically taking off the whole front end of the buggy from the chassis, all because of that damn front kickup. Lol

And regarding the front/rear diff bearings, yes those would be the right ones sir! Same ones I use!
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Old 07-10-2012 | 10:23 PM
  #2584  
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Originally Posted by weavty1
And regarding the front/rear diff bearings, yes those would be the right ones sir! Same ones I use!
Those bearing will work for the diffs but they are specifically for the outside of the hubs. You want the rubber shield on the out side, so get same size, just not serpent ones

Originally Posted by mrnizzles
and this power supply:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Supply-12V-25A

I'm running 2s packs, and I charge them at about 4 amps. I dont like charging more than 5 amps... packs get too hot for my liking.

_
I have that same charger and Love it. I have this common sense power supply. Its a little bit more, but way more power.
http://www.commonsenserc.com/product...9uvtmofuujjjn0
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Old 07-10-2012 | 10:32 PM
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Could anyone tell me if there's a good setup sheet for indoor hard packed but bumpy tracks? Is pork chop's setup good for such a situation? I'm getting a little frustrated as my lap times have slowed about a second to a second and a half since going from my mp9e to my 811e. I really like this car, actually love the car but I just feel like the setup is critical and I'm off.
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Old 07-10-2012 | 11:21 PM
  #2586  
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setup is CRUCIAL! wrong setup, imo, this car punishes you... once the track layout changed, I was way too soft up front.

Im prob just the opposite setup as you; outside, large, big air. for that its hard springs, heavy oil and heavy sway bars up front, opposite for the rear.. anything to tune-OUT steering. maybe I should try the opt 1 steering plate.. hmmm...

if u need more steering, try soften up the front more + opt 3 steering plate, make rear camber links shorter, less rear toe-in.

if it doesnt rotate well enuff, try shortening the wheelbase by modifying the rear hubs, or maybe the alum pieces can do that?

a setup for that would be good to compare tho

.. or just try pushing the car harder.. I did that, and I improved my single best lap time by almost 1 sec. I also broke my M2C brace, but hey, a perfect race car is one that finishes first, and falls completely apart after the race!


_
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Old 07-11-2012 | 04:20 AM
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Steering really isn't the issue. Ok now I thought when you measure shock length it was from the center of the screw that holds it to the standoff to the center of the pin that holds it to the arm. It looks like the serpent sheet shows measuring to the bottom of the pin, is that correct?
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Old 07-11-2012 | 05:55 AM
  #2588  
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Originally Posted by f41stryker
Steering really isn't the issue. Ok now I thought when you measure shock length it was from the center of the screw that holds it to the standoff to the center of the pin that holds it to the arm. It looks like the serpent sheet shows measuring to the bottom of the pin, is that correct?
Ya the bottom of the head of the pin, however sometimes I wonder if thats what guys filling out the form are actually doing since some of the measurements show almost no down travel.
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Old 07-11-2012 | 06:01 AM
  #2589  
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Originally Posted by mrnizzles
setup is CRUCIAL! wrong setup, imo, this car punishes you... once the track layout changed, I was way too soft up front.

Im prob just the opposite setup as you; outside, large, big air. for that its hard springs, heavy oil and heavy sway bars up front, opposite for the rear.. anything to tune-OUT steering. maybe I should try the opt 1 steering plate.. hmmm...

if u need more steering, try soften up the front more + opt 3 steering plate, make rear camber links shorter, less rear toe-in.

if it doesnt rotate well enuff, try shortening the wheelbase by modifying the rear hubs, or maybe the alum pieces can do that?

a setup for that would be good to compare tho

.. or just try pushing the car harder.. I did that, and I improved my single best lap time by almost 1 sec. I also broke my M2C brace, but hey, a perfect race car is one that finishes first, and falls completely apart after the race!


_
Dude, you are just like me! Hahaha.. Love your way of thinking! Haha.. Add me on FB sometime, www.facebook.com/tylorweaver

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Old 07-11-2012 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by RCmayor
Ya the bottom of the head of the pin, however sometimes I wonder if thats what guys filling out the form are actually doing since some of the measurements show almost no down travel.
Me too because my brothers 8.2e has waaay more droop than mine does.
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Old 07-11-2012 | 02:24 PM
  #2591  
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Have any of you guys tried shorty packs in the car? If so, did you like them?
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Old 07-11-2012 | 02:47 PM
  #2592  
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Originally Posted by bronc4now

man i didn't think this thing could look any sexier and i saved 16g from the stock straps but i put some back with the alm braces thanks rcmayor this is gary
Thanks for the pic, those do look good if I can say so myself.
I never weighed them compared to the stock doors. I thought they might be a little lighter though.
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Old 07-11-2012 | 03:22 PM
  #2593  
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just curious, so did anyone post a follow up to the Teckno RC site stating single pack layouts has best balance... notice they DON'T offer a conversion for the Serpent Nitro, lol.
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Old 07-11-2012 | 05:48 PM
  #2594  
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ok, on the webbed shock bladders, does the webbed honeycomb surface face the top of the shock cap?
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Old 07-11-2012 | 06:34 PM
  #2595  
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Originally Posted by f41stryker
ok, on the webbed shock bladders, does the webbed honeycomb surface face the top of the shock cap?
Yes it does.
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