SC10 4x4 Thread
Everyone needs to realize that while most of the hard work has been done for us to find combinations that work you will still need to do some tuning on your own to get the truck to where you want it. For me the final change was a front swaybar change, went to the yellow bar from blue and now my truck is on rails. Something as simple as a swaybar change can be the difference between an unpredictable truck and one that is consistent lap after lap.
Tuning the handling of any RC is all about balance, if you lack rear traction you need a softer rear end in relation to the front end...Dont limit yourself to going softer in the rear, experiment with going stiffer up front also.
Tuning the handling of any RC is all about balance, if you lack rear traction you need a softer rear end in relation to the front end...Dont limit yourself to going softer in the rear, experiment with going stiffer up front also.
I think some of my issues can be tuned with tires. I am not sure the high speed stability issues can though. It is just too responsive at higher speeds. I am actually afraid to try and wind it up too much. It almost feels like the truck is too light. When power is applied and kinda goes all over the place and minor corrections become non stop corrections. And the end results in me sideways or spun around.
I think some of my issues can be tuned with tires. I am not sure the high speed stability issues can though. It is just too responsive at higher speeds. I am actually afraid to try and wind it up too much. It almost feels like the truck is too light. When power is applied and kinda goes all over the place and minor corrections become non stop corrections. And the end results in me sideways or spun around.
I ran on an indoor high bite track this past week and it seemed like it was less of an issue. I normally run on and outdoor wet clay track. So in your opinion where should the weight be added? and now much
Stick with the 30K ft & 7k in back for diff's ....
Only fill the diff's half way , never fill all the way to the top .
Go to www.Rc10.com Find a set-up that fits your track conditions .
You will find Ae best drivers set-up advise there.
Never striped a rim yet , only can happen if the wheel nut is loose. Advise buying some serrated wheel nuts, they are best and do not need lock tight ...
No shims needed behind pin ....

Only fill the diff's half way , never fill all the way to the top .
Go to www.Rc10.com Find a set-up that fits your track conditions .
You will find Ae best drivers set-up advise there.
Never striped a rim yet , only can happen if the wheel nut is loose. Advise buying some serrated wheel nuts, they are best and do not need lock tight ...
No shims needed behind pin ....
they are serrated! brand new ones FYI! very frustrated at the moment.. going down to the track today to do some more fine tuning.. going to try 5k in the rear.. i had 7k in before and it was "okay" went to 10k and it was "terrible" going to try a few other things also.. sway bars and different shock springs.. ill report back later this evening..
Yep, stock is 3° and STRC has 3° & 3.5° hubs. I run the 3.5° hubs and needed to find more steering because it gave me more push mid turn to exit. But I like how the rear end was changed and made adjustments to the front to suit my driving style.
they are serrated! brand new ones FYI! very frustrated at the moment.. going down to the track today to do some more fine tuning.. going to try 5k in the rear.. i had 7k in before and it was "okay" went to 10k and it was "terrible" going to try a few other things also.. sway bars and different shock springs.. ill report back later this evening..
Use the Traxxas serrated wheel nuts , best you can buy .
stick with the recommended diff oil ....
first try different tires and lower rear ride height( 23mm <> 24mm) to find more grip .
also have someone with more experience test your ride & try his as well .
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-15-2013 at 12:52 PM.
can you link the part you are talking about?
I think some of my issues can be tuned with tires. I am not sure the high speed stability issues can though. It is just too responsive at higher speeds. I am actually afraid to try and wind it up too much. It almost feels like the truck is too light. When power is applied and kinda goes all over the place and minor corrections become non stop corrections. And the end results in me sideways or spun around.
This is a great idea. I have done this in the past and it can be very helpful. Plus it gets you talking to the local fast guys and building those relationships.
Everyone needs to realize that while most of the hard work has been done for us to find combinations that work you will still need to do some tuning on your own to get the truck to where you want it. For me the final change was a front swaybar change, went to the yellow bar from blue and now my truck is on rails. Something as simple as a swaybar change can be the difference between an unpredictable truck and one that is consistent lap after lap.
Tuning the handling of any RC is all about balance, if you lack rear traction you need a softer rear end in relation to the front end...Dont limit yourself to going softer in the rear, experiment with going stiffer up front also.
Tuning the handling of any RC is all about balance, if you lack rear traction you need a softer rear end in relation to the front end...Dont limit yourself to going softer in the rear, experiment with going stiffer up front also.
I try and preach this all of the time!! just because the rear is loose doesnt mean the issue is in the rear, more than likely in the front. It is all about chassis balance, the SC10 has very aggressive steering by nature.
Wildcat do you have camber link shims under the inside mounting points?



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