Can't see it, but watch the action starting at 2:20.

+ YouTube Video

lol, was that cherry punting BK?

Careful with running thick oil and the 2 stage pistons.... a hard landing and POP, you could push the shaft right through the plastic....especially if you built them upside down like I did.... (I have seen marcus warn against thick fluid, even if they are built properly.....)

Dude ? Why in the world would anyone want to punt BK ....




for everyone :

Hard to explain but I mess up on the sizzors coming onto the straight and Bk ran into my back bumper pushing us all the way down the straight till we both lost control in the sweeper....


It was all ugly and a embarrassing moment for me , being in race of your dreams can make for a lot pressure ....

I still did out qualify more then few
sponsored drivers that weekend ...

I am very proud of that fact, after all is considered..

Pour it on while you can ....

Yea the springs are probably your problem, I had the same issues running blue front and rear. The on power understeer went away with stiffer rear springs (blue on front and green fronts on rear or yellow front with white fronts on rear) but then the truck wanted to rotate too much. That is where the 8mm mod came in to save the day. With the yellow yellow or blue blue spring combo the rear is too soft and the truck jumps like garbage and over rough surfaces my front end was bouncing like a pogo stick but it performs well in corners minus the on power understeer that you and I have experienced.

I ended up doing the shock matching procedure from http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html (Read the posts by fredswain) and found the two combos above to be the proper front to rear balance. In the process you match the springs, balance the oil, and then make the truck handle by messing with swaybars and suspension geometry. It worked very well and now my truck is on rails.

Guys,

has anyone run both the FT slipper and V2 ball diff to compare what works best?

I'm running a home made ball diff in mine, works pretty good and is very consistent, truck stay's nice and straight under power, but it just needs a bit more power to the wheels, thinking about the FT slipper, or building the V2 ball diff.

Thoughts please, run on loose outdoor track.

I posted on this about 100 pages ago so probably not easy to find so I'll touch on it again...

Marcus does not agree with the weights that I run, but to each his own.

I have ran the 2 stagers since about December and have settled with 35/30 to 40/35 outdoor/indoor. Never broke anything. I have even ran up to 50wt experimenting with my setup and nothing broke.

Don't expect Marcus to warranty the part if you break a piston trying out a 50wt as he said not to. I'm just saying that the pistons did not self destruct on me, so try different weights and set the truck up for your driving style and track conditions... every ones different.

I build from the top with ZERO rebound in the build.

Hey guys,

Twice now, my daughter's SC10 has picked up a small rock in her steering linkage. Would the chassis cover help prevent this? It looks to be open a bit in the front.

Thanks in advance!

I used the excess lexan from the sides of a new body to make these. I use them when I go to an outdoor track to help cut the crud that gets thrown off the front tires down. Held down with Velcro and it's never fallen off.

Of course it does not keep it as clean as an under tray, but it helps and it tucks into the front well enough to keep everything away from the steering rack.

Interesting. I'll have to get creative and give that a try today. Her truck is running well, but she's had two DNFs after good qualifiers...both from having her steering locked up.

Thank you

What exactly are the benefits of the 2stage pistons over the stock. I run on a med. size high bite indoor clay track and am trying to get the truck to land and stay stuck (have more pack)will these help?

You are having the same issue that my V1 had. V2 with 4 pins will be perfect.The Cdif will out perform the VTS on anything other than ultra high bite conditions and even then its a coin flip!

The V2 pistons will have no issues with breakage and 35/30 is a decent combo. The main issue with the higher oils is that you lose the performance advantage. if you are on a track that is smooth with all backside landings you probably will not notice much but on hard landings they will hydro lock and the truck will bounce. One way to help with this is to drill a 1mm aux hole in the rebound piston . This will soften up the "hard pack" and give you quicker rebound at the same time. Even Cam doesnt feel the need to run oils that high and his home track is straight up glue!! but to each his own..


this is exactly what the 2stg pistons do......STICK!

Race report:
Well I just got back from the ROAR points race in Shippensburg, PA at G's Raceway.

The conditions were not very good 100+ degrees out and the track was suffering (however the crew there did an amazing job of keeping it clean!). Two people running 1/8 e-buggies had RX8s burst into flames. One guy temped his motor at 306° and his ESC at 215°. However my BH 120A ESC stayed under 120° even with a broken fan! Motor was 144°. I was however grossly outmatching in driver skill.

Got there early and run some practice with my newly CORRECTLY installed V2 center diff, just wow! I could actually control the truck. For the record none of my tires worked there and I wasn't about to spend $60 on a set to use once so I ran the whole day on Calibers, which weren't' bad but weren't great. I also tested out my new Method RC Hellcat. This body worked wonders for jumping. At the end of the days during the mains a storm was blowing in and the wind picked up. I was the one of only trucks not parachuting off the back triple. I can safely say that with the new body and V2 diff I can out jump losis. That leads me to my next problem though, I stripped my last V2 spur so I ran the day with a V1 diff! I figured I had to be doing something wrong so I asked one of the more experienced drivers to teach me how to set gear mesh. Well it took him 15min to do on my truck as every time he would tighten down the motor screws it would loosen the mesh. So at least I wasn't the only one who couldn't figure it out! I also changed my rear shock oil from AE 25 to losi 20 (about AE 22.5). I had so much more grip and it jumped so much better!

The first qualifier started and the truck was doing good with a tiny bit of push do to the V1 diff but I was getting destroyed due to the lack of talent and practice on this track. Ended up with 6 laps in 5:54 (TQ for the day was 7, 5:03).

I put the 8mm mod on for Q2 and thing were going much better as I was now getting hang of the track. I was on pace for 6 laps again but me rear drive shaft popped off causing me to lock up! I looked at it later and it was a shorter front one. Oops!

In Q3 with a new drive-shaft and now ready for the layout I was off. I was on pace for 7 laps but a couple laps in a rock got wedged between the wheel and rear hub locking the wheel. I lost two laps and ended up with 5 laps. I started 10th out of 10 in the a-main.

The amain started and in the first turn mayhem I shot up to fourth, however I didn't expect that to last. 10 minutes later I was in 6th exactly where I hopped and expected to be. There was no one else I could have possibly beaten with any truck and my skill level so I was happy. I also beat the only other Sc10 4x4 by 8 secs. The results are attached. I am Danny, William ran a stock SC10 4x4 FT.

Overall it was a ton of fun and the truck was perfect in practice with the V2 and still very good in the races with the V1. I am confident my truck can win now and I am going to focus on just driving and tires. I'll post my setup in a bit.

What was wrong with your original v2 configuration ? The 8 mm mod should only be done in high grip situations not low.

Driving time is the best mod you can do.

I had to pins installed in front of the balls so I lost all the effects of the V2 configuration.