Between a 2 piece and my 3-piece setup using the same engine and head I can do that but I have to get a temp sensor into the buttonhead and one in the head. If I know the materials I can search the specs of heatresistance so it can even be calculated.
At the end I do think it does not make a huge difference but Picco also did make a change to a buttonhead with some cooling fins so probably it does make a difference.....

I was just wondering if there was anything one could do to improve heat transfer,because I've never heard of anyone lapping where the button head meets the cooling head or using thermal paste paste compound like we do for CPU cooling.

I think we have the only one piece head/buttonhead suitable for turbo plugs. I know some people use a drop of oil between the head and buttonhead to transfer te heat better but indeed some cooling paste like the famous Artic Silver well used in the world of PC's could help some degrees. I know a Dutch computer site has tested several solutions on processors and could make some degrees celcius difference.

Yes, today I had to give a small demo on the club. I managed to make a low frequency filter for the G-force sensors and it seems to work. No influence from the vibrations.

The only RPM sensor is still on the gearbox shaft and is calculated back to engine RPM only based on 2nd gear. The car I used had a low 2nd gear shifting point.

The engine used was a JP modified REX 35-plus-21 and was not fuly adjusted to race performance but was running very good. There is more fluctuation to show on the engine temp and I believe the fueltemd hat influence of the heat from the engine, I have to place it above the gears.

Here the video of only the telemetry.

http://youtu.be/cwkVENYaK-k

Nice video once again.Some questions:when the car stops,engine temperature rises at 110º C and then slowly decreases until 90º C.Why?And could be that the reduced airflow around the fuel temp sensor when you stop the car means that some heat "spills" from the cooling head?Keep up the good work!

The builded up heat from the high RPM is still flowing away from the inside of the engine but because the airflow is gone it will concentrate in more heat and is slowly tranfered to the air. When runing idle there is no performance made and so no heat develloped, with that it will slowly cool down. When giving throttle the engine directly cools down but it is not the airflow, it is the rich mixture (at that moment) with the Nitro giving an internal cooling.
I am happy the G-force sensors, it showed 2G. I am still thinking about the fueltemp sensor, I think I have to isolate it much better from the engine and airflow.

Very nice project there Roelof.
I think I read that the sample rate was 2Hz,would it be possible to increase that? Is the telemtry part the limiting factor and could you log the data on-board at a higher rate?
Maybe the best location for the fuel temp. sensor would be in the bottom of the fuel tank?

With this one it is not possible to go to a higher framerate but it is already giving a lot information so when I will get myself into an Arduino computer I could go to 8 or even 16 frames per second. Problem is that there is no direct monitor software, I am a bit rusty with visual Basic but I thik it should not be a problem.
The main advantages of the Arduino is that it is cheap, easy to get and there is a very large comnunity.

Regarding the fuel temp, I have an idea to modify a tank without creating a leak so maybe next time. but first I will isolate the sensor a lot more.

Thanks for the explanation Roelof