Wild cat
That twist ?

sound like the truck was diff-n out


Suggest
Moving the back shocks to inside on arm
move ft shock outside on arm


yellow ft spring

also
add 1 oz weight on back on saddle pack & 1 oz back of chassis

1 1 mm shim under ft stud

24mm ride height ft & back

Why? Normally washers are added to rear, not front.
Also, try yellow front springs. Use the front holes on the optional steering rack if you have it.
Try running with clicker closed if it's open.

ok, I am not the best with setups. Normally I can grab a pros setup and be happy. But I was told that moving the rear shock outward on the bottom would decrease rear traction and that moving my front inward would increase traction. thus crazy steering. I am running a stick pack as I dont have the upgrade kit. I did use ** lol. One thing I do NOT want is this truck any more aggressive. I do not have the optional ackerman.

Almost every setup is see has no washers under the rear inside ballstud and like 3-7 on the front.

You need to start with 5mm of spacers under the rear and none under the front. I couldn't control mine either with zero rear ball stud spacer's.

Wow really? Ok, I have to ask because i am sure. What will that change fix? I have a few issues, just trying to figure out what is getting "fixed". I also think the mechanical gain in the steering is too much. is a .1 speed and 200 oz servo to quick. Also, should I use the thickest sway bar in the front? The front is kinda "boat like". Lots of front end roll.

It is a hotly debated subject if raising the rear ball stud is A.lowering the roll center or B. raising the roll center. I will let those more knowing than me address that. I do know I couldn't control the rear of my truck down the straight or get on the throttle at all without raising the rear ball stud. It calmed the back of the truck down and made it very easy to drive.

For the front I use blue springs, outside arm, middle position on tower's and 4mm under the front ball studs. I started with zero up front and added height until I liked it.

You are using a very fast servo! It would help if you had EXPO to dial some of that twitch out. As it is maybe someone better than me has some more tips to slow down your steering. When I was using the stock shock pistons I was using 32.5f/27.5r oil in the shocks. I use the RC shox pistons now.

Are you using the original stock slipper? updated slipper? or the RC Shox center diff?

If the front has too much roll with the blues, definitely go to the yellows up front. I am going back and forth between the red rears, and the front whites on the back.

Stock slipper. But I will def try some washers in the rear. How many can I add before i need the longer studs?

I personally am using the 2.2 in the front and 2.0 in the rear sway bar wise

I'm using the 12mm studs and can get to about 7.5mm.. I am pretty sure you can get to 5mm with the shorter studs.

I never used the original slipper, but here nothing good about it. I here it glazes pads very fast. Maybe look for the updated slipper or at least try some of the RC Shox Garodisks.

Again, maybe somebody that knows more about that stock slipper can chime in with some advice for setting it up.

kinda correct , moving inside on rear arm makes less side bite , but makes more forward traction...


better forward bite will help you accelerate with less wheel spin .
Wheel spin is what makes the truck diff out .

inside on ft arm =more steering

out side is smoother

ditch the standard slipper & get a VTS ....

Also get the new Team steering rack , makes a huge improvement , better feel and reaction ....

use the rear mounting position, not forward

ok, I added washers to the rear, put the 2.2mm sway bar up front. I will need to buy/borrow the yellow fronts at the track. middle/inside rear shock. middle/outside front shocks. I also lowered my dual rates to 70% from 100%. Hopefully this gets me to at least drivable.

Soooo, your saying I need the vys and the optional rack. I also dont have the chassis brace, lol. So I would assume your saying get the upgrade kit.....lol .

Cherry, I went inside rear and outside front on the shock bottoms, as that sounds like it might help for my issues. I will prob def need the stiffer front springs, the front end was leaning all over the place.

i dont have a pair of calipers so can someone convert the sizes of the sway bars to the corresponding colors that they are giving with the heat shrink ?

Has anyone been runnin the heavier center chassis? If so any thoughts on how it works?