A lot of ppl like the exotec to lower your cg and add some weight. I am a cheap person and only buy what is absolutely needed. I personally dont think its worth the $100, but if you have deeper pockets than me, go for it. The only upgrade that the truck NEEDS in my opinion are sway bars. This truck is crap to drive without them, in my opinion and should have been included in all kits. Anything else is just bling, lol. The brace might be good too.

But I just find it comical, that the guys on the losi forum are trading out the alum for composite chassis to make the truck lighter and the AE guys are getting alum to make it heavier.

At my local track I have seen the paint coming off on the oval PL nastrucks so must have some bad lexan

My Flo-tek has been going for 5 months now, no issues. And all I did was clean it with soap and water. Used Pactra paints.

Thanks for all the replies regarding the bodies. Will probably try hiflow first, but given my incredible jumping technique, I should have a chance to try a flotek before too long. I may do partial cutouts to try to leave some structural stability in place (doubt it will help, maybe just hurt the flow . . .)

For me (like most, I imagine) a half-decent paintjob is a serious PITA. I think in the past the problem was always that I had to get it done before could drive (this will be my first replacement, my original for my 2wd is still going strong). Maybe this time I can go slow and try to enjoy it a little more. I def. like the colors on fq06's ride. Maybe I'll copy a little (paint colors if not design).

Toyota ?

Sounds better than a Ford at least ....


I will buy the Flo-tec



Thanks for the help ...

Other than added weight what "design" changes are their..so I would guess that your against adding any weights..center diff..raising the rear camber links 8mm..on the 4600kv 4 pole I'm at 13/62 it's on a smaller track..big track I dont think I'd go any bigger than a 15 to start..check motor temps..

I felt the same way you did in the beginning when I first got my sc10 4x4, that the exotek was just an expensive piece and all show. However I found myself always adding weight here and there to try and get it balanced etc. After selling my original kit and going with the FT version it seemed more balanced with saddle's however I still noticed it needed more balancing and a better LCG so I took the plunge on the exotek after talking with several users on here that own one and I can honestly say it is not for bling and that it honestly makes the sc10 better.........

So is the general consensus to go 20K diff oil in the Front and 7K diff oil in the Rear? Seems like a lot of set-ups that I have seen lately use this combo. just wondering if its a good all around mix for either small clay tracks or big outdoor supercroiss style tracks... I would appreciate any opinions, comments and suggestions...

Thanks!

LOVE the look of the new Toyota body!






It had to be a bad batch of lexan, I've never had that peeling paint problem with a body (ever) and I would say that I have used more proline bodies than any other manufacturers over the years.





I saw a few flotek's at the track that did the same thing and there were a few on this site that had the same issue.





I would think that the Toyota body is far enough out in the production run to be using a good batch of lexan so that will be the next one it paint.


WC, your flotek did not have this issue. Maybe it took you so long to give up the stock AE body and use aftermarket that you missed the bad batch of lexan?


I also have a love of the enter key

fgo6

only ran the factory shell when the truck first came out . next body was a JC Raptor then of late a Hi flow...

Think GE makes all the Lexan these company use .....
Lexan is a GE trade name

i am thinking about competing in my very first race ever. would it be a good thing to do or just go watch?

The Toyota is the "newest" of the flo-tec line, it's hard to see in the photos but the body has a nice raised area in the top of the fenders so you can run the body lower and not have any tire rub, plus the front has a lot of cut outs to help lower the parachute effect, plus it looks pretty cool..

Just do it! Don't worry about anything and just race.

It will be difficult to land a good spot in qualifying, and even more difficult to place well in the main, if you only watch . . .

No seriously, I would suggest just trying to race. You can try to go on a day/evening that is slower or has less turnout. If the turnout is big, there may be a rookie/novice group you can run with.

I am new to this hobby, let alone racing in this hobby. Personality wise I am someone who likes to observe until I know whats going on before I get involved. That said, I just went on race night and asked the race director what to do. He took a body reamer, made a spot for a house transponder, and I had a great time. Based on your previous posts in this thread, you are not afraid to ask questions, and that's really all you have to be able to do to get started.

Good luck and have fun.

on the swaybar link there are numbers on them does that mean that each link goes to a certain a arm on my truck?