Ensure both the left and right shock collars are even, raise the front or rear end of the car up about 12 inches and let it drop onto a flat surface. Measure the distance between the center on the rear of the chassis and the table. And for the front, do the same, but do not measure anywhere forward of where the chassis kick-up begins. That is, dont measure against the angled part of the chassis...


Hope it helps...

thanks for the responce but would'nt it easier just the measure the schock coller thing and measure the distance.

thanks
john

I wouldn't rely on measuring the collars except to make sure they are even right to left. It will never be consistent hence the reason we have to check and adjust our ride height between races. Changing springs and oil weight, oil breakdown, and level of fuel in the tank all can change affecting your desired height.

You can do it that way. Some setups base it off the chassis, some off the overall shock length. I suppose it really just comes down to what is easier for you...

Hey guys i'll be getting my u.s edition kit here tomorrow and was wondering should i use the aluminum shoes or should i use the composite with the 1.1 springs?The motor and pipe combo i'm using is the werks b6(not pro) and orion 2013(same as werks 2013).

the drop test gives you a rough idea at were the cars sitting, on the mugen its not so critical to have your ride height exact to the mm, on the bench the rear is a few mms higher than the front, then I adjust it to how the cars sitting as I see it going around the track.

Kman, kit 1mms with the 3 alloy is an early engaging clutch, 1.1mm springs are better with a alloys (broke a few springs with this setup?) but not good with composite shoes, you could run a mix or just put a nice 4 shoe on (werks or Ascendancy) very long wearing clutch, reliable and a good engagement with 1mm springs.

Usually, droop or down travel is shown on many setup sheets based on the overall shock length.

Keep in mind that both droop and ride height will change if you change shock position, so it is not the best idea to measure either just by shock length alone. Not to mention, several other factors related to shocks will change ride height, such as damping, slight variation in spring rates (even though you think you are using the same springs), weight distribution...

So you may not have the same preload on both shocks in order for the chassis to be level from left to right.

Best to measure ride height in the rear at two places (I use the droop stops). Same goes with the front, but as mentioned before, measure where the chassis is flat and not where the kick up is. This way the chassis will be level from left to right.

I also measure my front and rear droop by lifting up one end of the car until either the front or rear tires are just about to come of the ground, and then I measure from the ground to the chassis. Also, make sure both tires come off the ground at the same time.

In the longer mains the Lipo are more stable and usually last longer. Also they have more speed when using the high voltage servos. With my Losi and my Mugen there was a clear difference in how they drove after running the lipo batteries. I always had to change my nimh battery packs for the Main because I felt safer after watching one die on a friend in a main. I always changed them out prior to my main but with my lipo I can do all the quals and main on the same day and feel secure. The real issue though is with the right servos when you are not running a voltage regulator the servos are better and quicker

can someone measure the width of they're front tower! from furthest shock hole to furthest shock hole! thanks

I found both here at www.imcmodels.gr I don't know if there are actually in stock though. It's too early in the morning ,the store is closed but I will call them later on and let you know.

I've checked on Mugens dealer in Athens www.rchobbyathens.gr and he has both items in stock. You can contact them at [email protected]
Please don't hesitate to pm me if you need any help.
Diamantis

My MBX6 is going to be delivered tomorrow. Still have to order a motor pipe set but still excited to see it. This is my first nitro for racing.

I can run the losi stock pipe set as well as the Orion 2013 and 2058 with no problems, I am not sure why everyone is ordering specific pipes for the mugen, just bend the pipe end hold down and everything is good to go.

who has run the losi 8ight clutch on their car? chime in, i need to know what clutch bell to use. thanks!

Lol same here.