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Old 06-14-2012 | 09:35 PM
  #25036  
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Originally Posted by the big rc
How do you get to the programming buttons with it that direction
I never use them, have Hotwire...

BUT!

It is very easy to push them with the point of a hex driver

By the way.,,,, fixed my push tonite.. Turned the single fastest lap ever for me on my home track, and beat my 6 minute average time by over 2 seconds. Too tired to post up the new setup,will do it after work tomorrow
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Old 06-14-2012 | 09:39 PM
  #25037  
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Originally Posted by SOuthernFRIED
By the way.,,,, fixed my push tonite..
Hint? Biggest affect from one change? Moving a arm shock location? More/less diff pins? Other?

Oh yeah, good job on the added speed you found tonight!
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Old 06-14-2012 | 09:50 PM
  #25038  
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Thanks Bro,

I think it was a combo effect.. Went to 7 pins on the center diff, inside mount on rear arm, blue springs up front. I could drive it nice and smooth, didn't feel like I was beating the hell out of it, running on the ragged edge. It was easier to drive than ever and yet faster!
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Old 06-14-2012 | 09:54 PM
  #25039  
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Old 06-14-2012 | 10:19 PM
  #25040  
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Originally Posted by F_ME
Finally tried the 8mm C-Tab rear hub mod.
I reversed the rear hubs L/R to get a better angle on the camber links.
The turnbuckles just clear the rear shock springs by 1mm or so. As I stated before, if they do hit you can space the top shock bushing out with shims.
I am running the mod with 12mm Ti ball studs and 6mm shims.

Previously I ran the middle hole on the rear hubs. With the C-tab mod it moves the rear camber link right above the inside hole on the stock hub. This was a shorter camber link than what I typically run. While I did try the inside hole on the stock hub previously, I did not like the shorter rear link. With the C-Tab mod it did feel better. It loosened up the rear end just enough but still carved a good turn.

I am running the Exotek center chassis with blue front springs in the front, white front springs in the rear with 32.5/27.5 shock fluid F/R, stock 1.2 pistons. The rear feels a little soft so I am going to try moving up to the blue front spring in the rear and maybe move up to 30wt shock fluid.

Had a 2 week old RX8 fail on me for no apparent reason. Reinstalled my MMP with external BEC and runs flawless. Why did I buy an RX8?

I did the same, 8mm mod with the reversed rear hubs. The problem seems that reversing the hubs ends up shortening the camber link to the point that turnbuckle is messing up the end of the ball cup.

Seems, with the reversed hubs, the camber link should be in the outside hole on the hub tab?

Anyone?
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Old 06-14-2012 | 10:33 PM
  #25041  
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Originally Posted by Vegatron75
I did the same, 8mm mod with the reversed rear hubs. The problem seems that reversing the hubs ends up shortening the camber link to the point that turnbuckle is messing up the end of the ball cup.

Seems, with the reversed hubs, the camber link should be in the outside hole on the hub tab?

Anyone?
I run the outside hole on the tab which is directly over the inside hole on the stock hub. This is with the C-Tab flipped upside down so only 2 holes are on top.
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Old 06-14-2012 | 11:09 PM
  #25042  
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Originally Posted by F_ME
I run the outside hole on the tab which is directly over the inside hole on the stock hub. This is with the C-Tab flipped upside down so only 2 holes are on top.

plus 1




Coyote, your confused?

This is not good, cus that makes both of us..


Funny part ?
Thinking maybe they are doing it on purpose.....
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Old 06-14-2012 | 11:51 PM
  #25043  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Funny part ?
Thinking maybe they are doing it on purpose.....
Oh, y'think huh?
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Old 06-15-2012 | 07:31 AM
  #25044  
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Does the FT kit come with parts to either run stick or saddle packs or just saddle packs?
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Old 06-15-2012 | 07:35 AM
  #25045  
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Originally Posted by Chris Gierse
Does the FT kit come with parts to either run stick or saddle packs or just saddle packs?
It comes with both.
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Old 06-15-2012 | 07:36 AM
  #25046  
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maybe someone can help me, i purchased the ack bar up grade and it slides off the pivots when i run the truck,perhaps i am not installing it correctly but i can't seem to find any info when i search. love the quality of these hop ups but some assembly tips would be helpful....thanks
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Old 06-15-2012 | 07:37 AM
  #25047  
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Originally Posted by Krio
It comes with both.
Thanks for the quick reply. Is there a huge disadvantage to run stick instead of saddle?
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Old 06-15-2012 | 07:38 AM
  #25048  
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Originally Posted by beaven
maybe someone can help me, i purchased the ack bar up grade and it slides off the pivots when i run the truck,perhaps i am not installing it correctly but i can't seem to find any info when i search. love the quality of these hop ups but some assembly tips would be helpful....thanks
Can you post a picture of your current installation?
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Old 06-15-2012 | 08:40 AM
  #25049  
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Originally Posted by beaven
maybe someone can help me, i purchased the ack bar up grade and it slides off the pivots when i run the truck,perhaps i am not installing it correctly but i can't seem to find any info when i search. love the quality of these hop ups but some assembly tips would be helpful....thanks
Are you talking about the rcshox ackbar? If so did you follow his instructions on the installation? If you didn't its because you didn't shave down the steering bellcranks as instructed.

http://www.rcshox.com/wp-content/upl...stallation.pdf
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Old 06-15-2012 | 08:52 AM
  #25050  
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Originally Posted by Chris Gierse
Thanks for the quick reply. Is there a huge disadvantage to run stick instead of saddle?
Kinda. The saddle pack moves more weight forward which can help the handling. If all you have are stick packs you can add some lead to the front to mimic the effect and the performance on the track is close enough for general racing. If you were going to the ROAR nats it would be a good idea to have both.
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