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Old 06-14-2012 | 09:09 AM
  #15751  
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Originally Posted by Wattsup23
You really shouldnt let someone tell you short is better than full or vise versa. I tried my Uncles shorty pack at the track one day and i didnt like it at all becuase my driving style is diferent than his, but it suites his driving style. If you can try both and see what suites you before listening to someone just shout out something. Full size might work better for you or the shorty, but dont waste your money because you were told something then to find out you dont like it.
I have both at my finger tips. We ran the shorty pack in the 22 mostly for weight reasons. The B4.1 is much lighter than the Losi and I'm going to run 17.5 blinky at the Jconcepts race coming up and I wanted to hear what the dedicated blinky class racers were running. I have been running mod with full size packs since getting the buggy. I've been in the game far too long to go off of one persons opinion
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Old 06-14-2012 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
I have both at my finger tips. We ran the shorty pack in the 22 mostly for weight reasons. The B4.1 is much lighter than the Losi and I'm going to run 17.5 blinky at the Jconcepts race coming up and I wanted to hear what the dedicated blinky class racers were running. I have been running mod with full size packs since getting the buggy. I've been in the game far too long to go off of one persons opinion
i personally like the shorty hands down,i ran both packs back to back and the full size pack just seemed sluggish,put the shorty pack back in and it had a quicker throttle response,way quicker in the corners,jumps and lands a lot better then the full size pack,i run yellow/red losi springs.i think my car is pretty much dialed right now,the full size pack is now in my sons rtr sc10.
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Old 06-14-2012 | 09:22 AM
  #15753  
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Originally Posted by Pellefa
I read somewhere back in this thread that the best improvement for the buck when it comes to improve on the RTR stock shock was to go for the AE "V2" shock sets.

They come it at some 43 USD per pair, and I was wondering if there is a cheaper way to improve on teh B4.1 RTR shock performance...
Improvement for the buck doesn't necessarily equate to performance improvement. There really isn't anything about the V2 shock that is going to make it perform any better than the V1. Its when you start to maintain them that its hands down better. The o-ring pack for the V1 is loaded from the inside with a sadistic little white plastic tool and an ill fitting white clip. You are probably unfortunately familiar with these. On the V2, the cartridge is loaded from the outside with a nice little black threaded basket. MUCH easier to work with. I've run both and didn't notice much of a difference in performance.
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Old 06-14-2012 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
i personally like the shorty hands down,i ran both packs back to back and the full size pack just seemed sluggish,put the shorty pack back in and it had a quicker throttle response,way quicker in the corners,jumps and lands a lot better then the full size pack,i run yellow/red losi springs.i think my car is pretty much dialed right now,the full size pack is now in my sons rtr sc10.
Thanks for the info. What type of surface do you run on?
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Old 06-14-2012 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Thanks for the info. What type of surface do you run on?
i run on indoor clay,the track I've been running at can get pretty loose,and the other track is indoor med bite tack,i haven't run at the med bite track but even on the loose the shorty is awesome
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Old 06-14-2012 | 10:07 AM
  #15756  
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I know a smooth diff makes the case better.. No kidding, lol. I took a diff out of my other car that was recently rebuilt and put it in my B4. It felt a lot more smooth and free. My other car kind of over steers and is annoying. And you can see 1 wheel roster down the straight. I have wondered how much the diff freeness/smoothness affect the cars rotation. I posted a few pages back about not having enough low speed steering and someone recommended removing a washer up front, but could my issue have been greatly due to my old diff that was a lot more stiff? I normally run my diff 1/8 turn back from full tight. What do you think?
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Old 06-14-2012 | 10:08 AM
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duplicate. Website freaked out.

Last edited by Wildcat1971; 06-14-2012 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 06-14-2012 | 11:51 AM
  #15758  
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I'm pretty sure I've asked this before but don't remember getting an answer. Is anyone running the brushless hobbies esc with a 17.5 motor in blinky mode? If so what gearing and settings on the esc are you running? I was thinking about going with a 34/75 or somewhere in that ballpark. (oh and I'm running a revtech motor)
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Old 06-14-2012 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
I'm pretty sure I've asked this before but don't remember getting an answer. Is anyone running the brushless hobbies esc with a 17.5 motor in blinky mode? If so what gearing and settings on the esc are you running? I was thinking about going with a 34/75 or somewhere in that ballpark. (oh and I'm running a revtech motor)
If you have the 75 spur I would start at 35 and depending on the track you could go up from there on the pinion. I am running about a 6.4 FDR but in 32 pitch gears (54/22) and I have the Revtech 17.5
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Old 06-14-2012 | 01:11 PM
  #15760  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I know a smooth diff makes the case better.. No kidding, lol. I took a diff out of my other car that was recently rebuilt and put it in my B4. It felt a lot more smooth and free. My other car kind of over steers and is annoying. And you can see 1 wheel roster down the straight. I have wondered how much the diff freeness/smoothness affect the cars rotation. I posted a few pages back about not having enough low speed steering and someone recommended removing a washer up front, but could my issue have been greatly due to my old diff that was a lot more stiff? I normally run my diff 1/8 turn back from full tight. What do you think?
when it comes to diffs as i build them, i only tighten them enough that the diff dont slip while holding the outdrives with a hex driver in each slot and use a cloth and try to turn the diff gear. if it turn any i tighten it 1/16 of a turn and repeat until the gear doesnt budge then i install it in the tranny. start the break in process of 20 sec a wheel at 1/4 throttle while holding the other, then repeat it to the other wheel. i check the diff to see if it has loosened any and tighten 1/16 of a turn then i repeat these steps 2 more times after that you will have a smooth diff that should last a while if u used high quality balls and rings such as bfast or even the ae ceramic or carbide balls, they last even longer if u use ceramic thrust also. i hope this help my friend
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Old 06-14-2012 | 02:40 PM
  #15761  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I know a smooth diff makes the case better.. No kidding, lol. I took a diff out of my other car that was recently rebuilt and put it in my B4. It felt a lot more smooth and free. My other car kind of over steers and is annoying. And you can see 1 wheel roster down the straight. I have wondered how much the diff freeness/smoothness affect the cars rotation. I posted a few pages back about not having enough low speed steering and someone recommended removing a washer up front, but could my issue have been greatly due to my old diff that was a lot more stiff? I normally run my diff 1/8 turn back from full tight. What do you think?
a tight diff will most definetly keep trhe car from rotating as well and as consistantly
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Old 06-14-2012 | 04:14 PM
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What Losi springs should I use.
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Old 06-14-2012 | 04:28 PM
  #15763  
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red/wh
red/yellow
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Old 06-14-2012 | 04:50 PM
  #15764  
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE
red/wh
red/yellow
Are they the 22 springs
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Old 06-14-2012 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dougwalter911
Are they the 22 springs
Yes
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