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Old 06-09-2012 | 06:45 PM
  #24796  
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Originally Posted by Krio
If you have under steer with the v2 center diff exiting corners, you need to go up on the number of pins you are using.



There is an RSX in the works that you can find in the onroad forum.
Thanks Kiro I will go check it out.
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Old 06-09-2012 | 07:25 PM
  #24797  
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I'll add the spring option to the list guys, Thanks!
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Old 06-09-2012 | 08:23 PM
  #24798  
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Originally Posted by rcmiket
Southernfried, if you want more overall steering, get rid of the 8mm mod. That mod is designed to make the rear stay more planted, especially at high speeds. It still locks in the rear at lower speeds, just not as dramatically. I run 4mm spacers under the rear ballstud, this helps lock in the rear too, so, to free it up, get the inner mounting point as low as possible. When I ran on a high bite indoor track, I ran the C hub tower, but with no ballstud shims. Rear rotated like crazy, but the camber rise was too great. Go back to stock rear link setup, and enjoy!



Disagree , sorry , no intentions in calling U out .



8mm




raises roll center

less chassis roll


Way 8mm really works guys ?


Truck rolls less in sweeper & slides instead.



8mm best used on smooth ,med to high traction conditions.
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Old 06-09-2012 | 08:42 PM
  #24799  
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Originally Posted by SOuthernFRIED
I'm not tied to the yellow fronts. So what do you suggest Craig?
Either move to the inner hole on the a arm or switch back to blue.
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Old 06-09-2012 | 09:27 PM
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OK I have finished the build on my truck but have yet to run it because of no time. I have a question to my motor choice for now I bought a mmp 1406 with the 4600kv motor and I want to know if this motor will have enough bottom end on it. I put a 17 pinon on it for now but I do have lower gears to try out. I run on a indoor track that has medium to high traction one straight away at about 120 foot range the rest is tight turns going into jumps one being right into a triple . I have tried searching but it is hard to search forums that don't use tapatalk. Thanks

Last edited by boisetrucker; 06-09-2012 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 06-09-2012 | 09:35 PM
  #24801  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
You are the first user to report a positive experience with them.
What problems have you heard of ?
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Old 06-09-2012 | 10:35 PM
  #24802  
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Originally Posted by boisetrucker
OK I have finished the build on my truck but have yet to run it because of no time. I have a question to my motor choice for now I bought a mmp 1406 with the 4600kv motor and I want to know if this motor will have enough bottom end on it. I put a 17 pinon on it for now
on an indoor track? 17? Yikes!

Honestly, with a 4600, I'd be aiming for 13-14 given the description of your track....maybe even lower if it doesn't overrev on the straight....
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Old 06-09-2012 | 10:46 PM
  #24803  
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Originally Posted by Hard Drive
What problems have you heard of ?
Youll have to do a search, I cant remember what the issues were but they were multiple and numerous. Mine are bearing modded now, first set of stock ones lasted eight months.

Several guys tried them and went back to the stock ones.
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Old 06-09-2012 | 11:00 PM
  #24804  
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Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
on an indoor track? 17? Yikes!

Honestly, with a 4600, I'd be aiming for 13-14 given the description of your track....maybe even lower if it doesn't overrev on the straight....
Yeah I was going to put a 13 on before I hit the track I just wanted to Make sure this motor would be okay.
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Old 06-09-2012 | 11:26 PM
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So Fried,

Your setup is really odd to me. It looks like you have done everything you can to get the rear loosened up ( stiff rear springs, stiffer rear sway bar) and the front to stick ( outside camber link on tower.)

I dont see how moving the shock in on the rear arm in will help. wont that loosen up the rear suspension and make the push worse?

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the push is mostly your throttle finger. I would recommend coasting around the corner, then gasing it when the car is pointed the right way.

Also, I dont understand the 4mm shims under the front camber link. try taking those out, it might help. You could also lower the front ride hight a little more than the back. I have had that help with on power steering.

I have not used the center diff yet. I know everyone says to drop your front diff fluids for more steering, but I like a stiffer front fluid. It seems like the front pulls a lot better for me with 20k.

I know this advice is contrary to what is commonly recommended, but based on your setup, maybe your driving style is different. I know i personally like to throw the truck hard into the corner enough to bring the rear end around a little, then gas it and drive it like a dirt tracker. I run 60k front diff fluid and i never have a problem gettting around a turn. I just slide the rear end around and punch it. The front pulls me wherever I want to go. I'm not saying this is how you should set up your car, i'm just saying that there are different strokes for different folks.
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Old 06-10-2012 | 04:13 AM
  #24806  
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Originally Posted by SOuthernFRIED
Wait whats the consensus? Inside of arm on frt? Back? or both?

Also I'm not changing the rear stud height unless all else fails. I didn't just mod it up to 8mm and say all is well. I started with zero under ball stud and it was undriveable. I have slowly added spacer's under the rear until it felt good..

Have considered making front camber rod longer, but my track has a couple of chicanes and I am afraid it will make the front end too "lazy" for lack of a better word. We have a couple of switchbacks that require a quick reacting suspension as well.

All in all my truck is good. This is the last piece of the puzzle for me and I really don't want to hurt one thing to fix another.

I truly appreciate all the advice, and I have a few options now to go thru. I will run it Thursday and see how it acts.
[QUOTE=1BlueTaco;10841380]So Fried,

Your setup is really odd to me. It looks like you have done everything you can to get the rear loosened up ( stiff rear springs, stiffer rear sway bar) and the front to stick ( outside camber link on tower.)

I dont see how moving the shock in on the rear arm in will help. wont that loosen up the rear suspension and make the push worse?

Its a balance issue , if hte rear is loose the front will have more steering

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the push is mostly your throttle finger. I would recommend coasting around the corner, then gasing it when the car is pointed the right way.

Also, I dont understand the 4mm shims under the front camber link. try taking those out, it might help. You could also lower the front ride hight a little more than the back. I have had that help with on power steering.

I have not used the center diff yet. I know everyone says to drop your front diff fluids for more steering, but I like a stiffer front fluid. It seems like the front pulls a lot better for me with 20k.
with 20k and the cdif the truck will push badly and offer very little turn in, its been tried countless amounts of times and it simply doesnt work with the center dif. "stiff" would be 10k max and that is even marginal!

I know this advice is contrary to what is commonly recommended, but based on your setup, maybe your driving style is different. I know i personally like to throw the truck hard into the corner enough to bring the rear end around a little, then gas it and drive it like a dirt tracker. I run 60k front diff fluid and i never have a problem gettting around a turn. I just slide the rear end around and punch it. The front pulls me wherever I want to go. I'm not saying this is how you should set up your car, i'm just saying that there are different strokes for different folks.[/QUOTE

This is true but there are limitations, if you are not running a cdif or have not run a cdif it makes a huge difference in setup and handling. Even with your unique driving style you cant expect the setup to even be close to what you have now, try running 60wt on an e buggy and see what happens!!

In my opinion the push is coming from his rear setup more than front, the rear is just locked in too much. and tire choice

In general the lower amount of pins= more on power push
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Old 06-10-2012 | 04:16 AM
  #24807  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Youll have to do a search, I cant remember what the issues were but they were multiple and numerous. Mine are bearing modded now, first set of stock ones lasted eight months.

Several guys tried them and went back to the stock ones.
Are you saying that they lasted that long before you had to do anything to them?
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Old 06-10-2012 | 05:01 AM
  #24808  
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I noticed today when I was doing the front diff bearing mod, that the a-arms rub pretty badly against the chassis where the hinge pins attach and have worn it down some, leaving a pretty rough surface.. is there any fix for this? I'm fairly sure this will actually harm the smooth movement of the arms sooner or later.
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Old 06-10-2012 | 07:48 AM
  #24809  
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Fried , when you fix the push ?

Remember to tell everyone how you did it ...



I don't use most of the recommendations given , some expensive even .
My ride does not push at all ...


How bout that ?

Ps , Don't let anyone tell you a particular style of driver need particular set-up ..

A good set-up performs just as well for a beginner as for the experts...
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Old 06-10-2012 | 08:01 AM
  #24810  
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Don't worry Cherry, I will!

Next race will be Thursday and I am pretty sure it will get sorted out.

I take everything with a grain of salt. I am not a beginner at all... I have just been out of racing since 2006. I used to race a nitro Mugen Truggy all over the Southeast ,also ran electric on road. The short-course truck IS new to me. I realize everyone has their own opinion and some work and some don't. I learned long ago who to listen to and who to grin and nod at
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