Kraig

iTrader: (81)

You are going to find the car a lot cheaper at other places than you will find at Tower. Just for example, stop by our website to see how much our pre-orders are.

Kraig
KT Hobbies

Nightbreed

but there is not much difference. I think it's an 1oz. Besides the TC4 should be a lighter TC anyway. The price @ what I have seen is higher than I would have wanted it, but it's still new. It may be price gouging at this point by the distributors, but we will see. I was thinking it would be around $179.00.

Remember the Racer kit came with plastic outdrives, an aluminum shaft, composite CVDs, composite shocks, and a composite battery strap. (all which are real functional hopups) I would think with all the aluminum the TF TC3 came with, it would be close in comparison.

I hope they make a 'Racer kit' with threaded composit shocks. These things will go like hot cakes at the local level. Well, I guess they will anyway, but a TC4 with the above mentioned would blow any other company away as far as value goes. The glitz cars getting their but kicked won't know what to do!

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Of course, driving skills matter. I've beaten guys with an OFNA OB4 International, while they were running everything from a Xray, a Losi XXX-S and AE Factory Team.

Okay, just for you, driving skills considered equal - a "Factory Team" kit will perform better. It's designed with that in mind. Faster, lighter, stronger. Just having a top tourer won't put you in the winner's circle. I think we ALL know this (or at least we ALL should).

Charlie O

How is a Factory Team TC-3 lighter than a racer kit? try weighing some of your aluminum parts against the plastic ones, plastic is lighter!

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (95)

Forget aluminum and carbon fiber...I want a chassis made of cheese. Give me chedder or even colby.

Why can't we all get along...or is this just a way to pass the time till we can get our hands on this new kit and really have something to argue about?

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

EXACTLY!

Nightbreed

making a chassis out of chocolate plates? That would bring in a whole new consumer base! Women? Don't we like eye candy on our TC? What was AE thinking? Here I go again.

No harm in debating topic issues. It's all out of love for RC. Well, it is with me.

No really Kewdawg, the TF TC3 is not stronger and it's not much faster. Molded graphite is more brittle. If you can even measure that, there are so many other variables. There might be a butt hair of a difference. The TF is more about eye candy vs. value. Trust me I'm the biggest sucker of them all.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Tony, question for ya, and I think the answer is no... but will you beable to run euro, bullet, Corrally Plugs on my batteries... or would I be forced to switch back to hard wiring again. I see the space would be tight. But I can't tell how tight it would be. I know the Yokomo CGM make provisions for this on their chassis. Maybe perhaps alittle dremeling would be possible on this one?

Advil

iTrader: (19)

Tony,

I was wondering if you would be able to post the part numbers for the misc. tuning parts we will need to set this car up. For example:

Caster Blocks (2 and 4 degree...will there be a 6 degree block?)
Front Kick Up Blocks (AKA F+2/F+0)
Rear Toe Blocks (AKA R3+2/R3+0/etc)
Anti Roll Bar End Links (will the Anti Roll Bars be the same?)
Inner Camber Link Ball Studs (are there different lengths or are we going to shim them as needed?)

I would like to get this stuff "Pre-Ordered" so I can start tuning the car as soon as I get it.

Thanks,

Art

PSI Racer

I'vge seen the tc4 on the Associated web site...i looks cool...I kinda dig the way they did the side braces and included the camber link to it.

Nightbreed

Also a part #s for the molded graphite conversion kit and shocks so I can make it a TF.

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Ok....here we go:

Scaughron:
'Carbon' Component Kit: Part #31042

KilRuf: (looking at my chassis) MIGHT fit....looks like it will be a pretty tight squeeze.

Advil:
Caster Blocks: #31016 (2 deg), #31017 (4 deg) AND #31018 (6 deg)!!!!!!

Front/Rear Blocks: ##31025 (Standard Block Kit), #31064 (front aluminum block - triangle), #31065 (front aluminum block - circle), #31066 (rear aluminum block - square), #31067 (rear aluminum block - X 3.0), #31068 (rear aluminum block - X 2.5), #31069 (rear aluminum block - X 2.0)

Anti-Roll Bar Links: #31058, and yes, anti-roll bars will be the same

Camber link balls studs#6277 & #3983...all will have a broached head so you can add and remove with a hex driver.

Full catalog will appear on AE's site (and mine) later this week.

Nightbreed

I only use Evno/Corrally style plugs and I don't want to use a dremel.

If they don't fit, I hope AE will do a running change like what the Yokomo chassis has done. This is a must for me, since all of my batteries are these plugs Man, it's just coming out and it may already need two chassis mods. Battery slots and plugs? My two cents.

I'm wonder how stiff the chassis is for carpet compared to the TC3?

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Plugs: just use an extra battery bar to mount your female plugs on, it should fit... soldering them directly to the cell usually leads to premature wear (heat too close to the cell).

Personnally I switched to harwiring last month, and the difference is obvious, especially in 17T class. You just need a good quality iron ready to use 100% of the time.

Think about it... we pay 15 extra bucks to go from 1.16 to 1.17 V/cell... that's .01V... under 50A it means that you only need .0002 (ie one fifth of a thousandth of an ohm) of resistance in your current path to loose it all... I'm pretty sure any plug is at least ten times that!

Later,
Paul

Nightbreed

it's not for me. I'm the last to put my car on the track the way it is.