SC10 4x4 Thread
Balancing two saddle packs is wise only because you'll get the absolute max time out of the pack, one won't drag the other back. But every time is seriously lackofotherwords: pointless. If you're racing every time, do it once every 3. If they are quality packs, they will hold their cell amps the same and drain the same for a very long time.
For Saddles, I'll agree it's more of a concern only because they are physically different packs, but I run two 2s on my 1/8 and Balance then once a week. This will result in only 'maybe' 1 or 2 minutes of loss because one was drained a hair lower than the other battery/cell.
For Saddles, I'll agree it's more of a concern only because they are physically different packs, but I run two 2s on my 1/8 and Balance then once a week. This will result in only 'maybe' 1 or 2 minutes of loss because one was drained a hair lower than the other battery/cell.
Balancing two saddle packs is wise only because you'll get the absolute max time out of the pack, one won't drag the other back. But every time is seriously lackofotherwords: pointless. If you're racing every time, do it once every 3. If they are quality packs, they will hold their cell amps the same and drain the same for a very long time.
For Saddles, I'll agree it's more of a concern only because they are physically different packs, but I run two 2s on my 1/8 and Balance then once a week. This will result in only 'maybe' 1 or 2 minutes of loss because one was drained a hair lower than the other battery/cell.
For Saddles, I'll agree it's more of a concern only because they are physically different packs, but I run two 2s on my 1/8 and Balance then once a week. This will result in only 'maybe' 1 or 2 minutes of loss because one was drained a hair lower than the other battery/cell.
First full run with the new FT kit this afternoon - a few observations:
- Pink really stands out from the crowd. The kids cheer for it
- Shocks are nice, smooth, very absorbing through the whoops
- Saddles definitely an improvement to the balance of this truck
- Overall, chassis feels more rigid than std kit, provides good forward bite
- +8mm rear camber link mod definitely keeps the rear in check. Big, big improvement
- New slipper assembly seems to work well. No visible glazing, tune-able but was still pulling wheelies down the straight
- Chassis acts as a sink for dirt
- heard an ominous clicking noise almost immediately.. turned out to be a leaf stem caught up in the wheel.
Overall, very happy. Fast, driveable, very fun straight out of the box with only a few set-up changes (mostly from this thread).
- Pink really stands out from the crowd. The kids cheer for it
- Shocks are nice, smooth, very absorbing through the whoops
- Saddles definitely an improvement to the balance of this truck
- Overall, chassis feels more rigid than std kit, provides good forward bite
- +8mm rear camber link mod definitely keeps the rear in check. Big, big improvement
- New slipper assembly seems to work well. No visible glazing, tune-able but was still pulling wheelies down the straight
- Chassis acts as a sink for dirt
- heard an ominous clicking noise almost immediately.. turned out to be a leaf stem caught up in the wheel.
Overall, very happy. Fast, driveable, very fun straight out of the box with only a few set-up changes (mostly from this thread).
On another note, have any of you actually went back to the front blue springs in the front? Today i switched to front whites in the rear and front blues in the front. switching between the DESC and SC10 the first thing i notice is how the front just isnt as planted and seems springy, feels good on the bench. I also went down to 325/275 oils to compensate for the softer springs.
Wow, I can't believe how stiff everyone is running their springs. What's your guy's running weight? Right now I'm like 3 oz underweight so that could have something to do about it. I'm running white fronts in the front and white rears in the rear.
So ready to run body and all you are at 85oz? If you are racing you should not be under 88oz.
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 275
One question about raising the ball studs by 8 mm in the rear.. I ordered the 12mm ones, but they'll take a while to get here. Right now, I have them stock with a 5mm raise, and the end of the ball stud is just barely screwed into the steel inlay, no more than 2 or 3 turns into it. Adding even just one 0.75mm washer caused it to no longer grip the threads. Now adding the 12mm ball stud, that will give me 2mm more to work with, so in theory I can go to 7 mm to again just barely have the threads in the inlay.. how are you guys getting 8?



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