Man, let it go

He was referring to me, I'd like to think i know a little bit about this truck when i ran my ballistic 4.5 i ran 15/62 . As we all know there are lots of variables when it come to gearing. it actually got cooler when i jumped from 13 to 15.

Is 25/20 still the suggested oil to run with rcshox pistons?

http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...052&p_catid=28
This heatsink can be made to work with SC10 4x4 & Tenshock 4600kv.
Remove bracket. Remount fan at center. Dremel-cut in line with the first wing to clear the wires.

By the way. The fan that comes with this thing sucks. It makes noise like a fan, but blows so little air I have to hold it near my eye to feel it...
get another fan...









I had a few extra parts to ugrade to dual fans.
Now all I need is some fans that move more air.



How did that picture get in there?

I just took the 30k out of the front. I have not run it yet and the funny thing is, I don't know if i am good enough to feel the difference.

I was just making fun which is not much like me on threads that are supposed to help people. Much respect Marcus.

I was running 12/62 and it was not fast enough and I am slipping the VTS clutch a lot. I considered that by increasing the pinion I would potential run at a a speed that was not as hot but could also increase load. Taller gears can also reduce low end torque which in my case was OK since I am breakin loose the slipper easily. I did not consider a 15t yet but if you have experience with it being cooler that may be on my test list. I want my SC10 4x4 to out perform my Jammin SCRT10 with the same powerpack on 8th scale tracks.

I have a 550 5.5t stator. Would it be better to run that?

Does this change between the V2 Diff and VTS Slipper with stock pads?

get rid of that vts and get a center diff.

I know that feeling...

Before I had the center diff I ran 7000 front and 5000 rear. I think it worked pretty good for me, tons of steering.. Almost too much, which is why some are running 10k,20k in the front. The type of track you are running on plays a major roll in what thickness you use.

I think 3,000 or 5,000 will suit you well in the rear regardless of the track you run on.

In my opinion go 7000 frt and 5000 rear.

For starters, yes.
I just loaded mine with that yesterday

I'm not sure what you dropped down to, but you will feel the difference. It really is noticeable. Drop to 10K and watch how much less push you get.

Its all good man, no worries.Things work different with Brushless motors since they have instant tq. going down on pinion does not increase TQ it only slows the truck down, going higher on pinion increase TQ at the wheels as well as increases your speeds. The 5.5 motor will work better with even bigger pinions. basically you tune your motor via heat more than anything else, if you want to tame the truck down you can go lower on the pinion. I actually liked the 4.5 with a 15, since its only a 2 pole it didnt have as much rip which works better on low grip tracks.

Sure..and a few verses of Kumbaya wouldn't hurt either..
And the FUM..fu manual..and Marcus no big deal..I'm not new to RC either..I guess I expected better from you..being a respected member of the RC community and all..flaming someone like you did just seems beneath you..but it's done..In the past..

I was running 7k in the front and had sooooo much steering..went back to 20k....but I'm running on a small high traction track..what are you guys running with the RC Shox center diff as far as diff settings go..I'm building a FT for outdoors and I was told that the center diff works better for outdoor tracks..

Just now I took apart the rear end. Unfortunately, there I do have a coned washer, which I flipped around for the time being. I have no clicking either way.
For some reason, the o-rings of the diff case keep popping out, as if they were too big.. this didn't happen with the front.
I also noticed the dreaded diff output wobble.. will have to experiment with the bearing mod there at some point.

Hi all, I am in the final stages of completing the FT kit version of this truck, using as much info from this thread as possible. I am now in the final stages and got concerned about the outdrives. I build the diff's stock, so no added bearings for the out drives so far.

Apart from the added bearings to the diff's, is there a known fix to the outdrives that avoids that a large movement of the shocks can destroy the diff w outdrives? I am building the shocks with "throw" limiters, but is there something else to consider for the outdrives themselves?