5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-25-2012 | 09:29 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,207
is there lack of interest in the Ft saddle conversion ? i bought the the upgrade kit and decided not to run the saddle pack due to me having to buy new batteries, so i decided to sell it. not one bite.
i dont have 4 scales but i used the middle of the bumpers and some small allen wrenches to check side to side balance and it seems pretty good stock.
i dont have 4 scales but i used the middle of the bumpers and some small allen wrenches to check side to side balance and it seems pretty good stock.
05-25-2012 | 09:51 PM
Then added lead strips as needed on the left of the servo to balance it left to right with a stick pack.
I wouldn't be against the saddle setup at all, wish I would have done that before I picked up 4 stick packs.
05-25-2012 | 11:12 PM
05-25-2012 | 11:25 PM
05-25-2012 | 11:36 PM
That's about the same size track I run on, start off with an 11t and run for about 5mins and check temps if temps are low keep going for another 5+ mins, if temps are still low and you feel like you want a little more try a 12t. I use an 11t because there is only one long straight so I want to get more torque then top end......
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05-26-2012 | 02:14 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 292
From: Hawkes Bay. New Zealand
Need your guys help, normally I would create another thread for this but there are alot of guys on here that are very knowledgeable so hopefully someone can help me out.........
Ever since I started using mylaps transponders I've been having very bad glitching issue's. I had it mounted right on top of the servo, even tried moving it on top of the drive belt area....... My electronics are tekin rx8/pro4 4600kv, futaba 4pl tx/rx, spektrum 6030 servo, and nanotech 5100 65c lipo's...... Even running it with a glitch buster......... Thinking it was my transponder I took it off and it was doing the same thing, I think I may be having some interference with my local tracks timing system, because throughout the whole day it was not turned on, and as soon as the owner turned it on I started having the glitching issue's with and without the transponder. Any idea's if I'm right or anything else it could be? Also would raising or lowering the current limiter on my rx8 have any affect, and I might even switch rx's and see if that does anything......... Thanks in advance
Ever since I started using mylaps transponders I've been having very bad glitching issue's. I had it mounted right on top of the servo, even tried moving it on top of the drive belt area....... My electronics are tekin rx8/pro4 4600kv, futaba 4pl tx/rx, spektrum 6030 servo, and nanotech 5100 65c lipo's...... Even running it with a glitch buster......... Thinking it was my transponder I took it off and it was doing the same thing, I think I may be having some interference with my local tracks timing system, because throughout the whole day it was not turned on, and as soon as the owner turned it on I started having the glitching issue's with and without the transponder. Any idea's if I'm right or anything else it could be? Also would raising or lowering the current limiter on my rx8 have any affect, and I might even switch rx's and see if that does anything......... Thanks in advance
05-26-2012 | 08:22 AM
Best to try all spectrums of you tuning options from high to low so the effect that it has on your vehicle is very evident and that helps you know what direction to go to get what you want out of it. Once you go too far in whatever it is that you're tuning, go back one and that's probably about the right setting. But you don't know what the wrong setting is until you've tried it.
Last edited by fq06; 05-26-2012 at 08:54 AM.
05-26-2012 | 08:28 AM
When your building the shocks, make sure that the washer that Marcus puts in the kit that goes on top of the pistons is centered and not offset. If it is not centered, it could bind the piston and make it perform poorly.
Of course blue locktight on the screw.
Get the shaft and locktight together first and then start to clean the shock shaft and o rings and green slime on the o rings going back in... do other stuff while the locktight cures.
Some locktight manufacturers have a couple minute cure time, some have a painfully long cure time. See what the manufacturer of your locktight suggests on the bottle or on their website. You don't want that to come apart.
Of course blue locktight on the screw.
Get the shaft and locktight together first and then start to clean the shock shaft and o rings and green slime on the o rings going back in... do other stuff while the locktight cures.
Some locktight manufacturers have a couple minute cure time, some have a painfully long cure time. See what the manufacturer of your locktight suggests on the bottle or on their website. You don't want that to come apart.
05-26-2012 | 08:33 AM
05-26-2012 | 08:48 AM
Like others have stated those are a good starting point. Depending on your track, springs, truck weight, and other variables be prepared to go up in oil weight.