So I think I found my wobble issue. I took the tranny case back out to look at my diff again. When I took out the diff, the 10x16x4 bearing was no longer sitting on the diff case. They slid out to sit flush against the bottom of the outdrives. I can see where the 5x10x3 bearing is sitting on the stub of the diff case, and I can see now that my grind job isn't straight. I got a little uneveness on the stub. So when the 5x10x3 bearing is sitting on there, I can wobble it back and forth. I think if I straighten up my grind job on the stubs, I'll be OK.

I read further back that someone made a jig using 1.5mm washers so they had a guide of how much to cut off. If anyone else is thinking of doing this mod, I'd highly recommend that. I think that will help to keep your cut off straight. If it's not straight, you're going to have wobble like I have.

you think i need a rebuild already. it was just built and ran only about 20 minutes at the track...

i'm not really getting what your saying... your talking about the little white pieces need to go under the little black rubber washer at the bottom of the shocks correct? also you say i need new shims under the sun gear?@?@|!? what size are the shims? where do they go again? and where do i get them? is there a picture tutorial on this anywhere?

I know that trick-parts just started carrying the 3mm shim for under the sun gears. I just snagged a set for like 2$. Comes with 6. The kit has 2mm shims

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I think I have about 60 minutes of practice time on the track and I can already see a wear mark on the bones, and it may have already affected the front diff. I possibly have clicking and pulling to the left when I hit the brakes hard, need to double check on flat road to check for sure.

In any case, I will put at least 4mm of limiters on, maybe more (I currently have the boots on). I am not too excited about having to rebuild the diff because of this, but I can see from this thread that others have suffered far more to get us to the current point with this truck.

As far as this needing its own thread, I think what this needs is a product recall. If, out of the box, the uptravel causes problems in the tranny case, AE should notify its customers and provide a fix. R/C is one of the few consumer products where product flaws are accepted, even viewed as a challenge to be overcome by the community. In any case, thanks to the more experienced community for working these things out.

Part number or specs? Are these shims, or just washers?

I have been running the .3 wide Ofna for 2 race days without issue, but they're O.D. is smaller than that of the originals.

Is there a consolidated post of the "Must do" mods such as the up travel mod, and sun gear shimming? It's difficult to get through all the posts and extract the good info.

I'm new to the SC10 4x4 platform, and already this thread has been a great source of info.

Greg

Uptravel is the only "must do." Do it from the start, and the shimming is a huge deal. I've got a little wobble in my outdirves, but it has been running fine. The shims are still flat, and it's probably just the diff housing at this point. One day I'll get around to replacing it, but for now it runs good.

On pg 1345 of this thread, there's a link to a post on Ultimate RC where the mods are summarized.

This is the best explanation I have seen so far for this issue! Thank you! I just went to the garage, traveled my suspension and saw what you are talking about. I noticed that there is a natural "cup" in the A arm that allows for the outdrive so it was not contacting there but I did notice the cvd touching the outer rim of the outdrive. I think you were talking about the little c-clips with tabs on them. I used 5mm and it stopped contacting. I even put a little extra pressure on it to be sure and 5MM appears to be enough for mine anyway.

I too am getting a clicking from the rear end on hard left hand turns with brakes. I rebuilt my front diff yesterday and the shims appears fine as well as the diff housing. I think I will tackle the rear end next and go ahead and replace those shims and inspect the diff housing.

I went to a race Saturday in Henry County GA. I got my butt kicked but had a blast doing it! My truck was very slow compared to the others and being new I found that I was running in an "Open" class. Since, I have upped my pinion to a 14 and moved my timing up to level 3. I did not know about that adjustment the day of the race or I would have upped it a bit and checked temp. With 0 timing on a 14 tooth pinion I was running about 120* on motor and 110-115* on ESC after a race so I have room to move. I am going to try and get to the track this week and do some testing.

Thanks for all you guys help in this thread and as fq06 has done for us new guys, please remember that when you talk about mods and changes, all of the terminology is rather technical if you are new like me.

The little white clips in the shock bag clip onto the shock shaft to limit how far the shock can travel up. Without limiting, the suspension travels too far and pushes the outdrive upwards ruining the shim (washer) under the large gears in the diff (sun gear).
Stock shim is 5x10x.2.
Below are .3 thickness and tighten up the gear mesh.

http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/tps5103.htm

You need new shims, stock or even better .3 thickness.
You probably need a new gear set for the rear diff as well.

There are instructions on diff assembly in the manual.

The OD on thestock shims should be the minimum, the xrays are a little bigger OD but still fit in the diff housing. May give more strength or not, but the only way to get stock shims is to buy the rebuild kit for the diff thats $15.
The new gears are usually needed once the diff starts clicking, thats gears stripping... but still, the .3 thick shims are best so get the along with rebuild kit and you are golden.
http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/tps5103.htm

The manual says to add shock limiters if you don't run boots, its in small print.
You need limiters boots or no boots, they just need to change that part of the instruction manual and point out that you need to limit regardless.

Stock shims are ok, .3 is better IMO, but most diffs need to be fine tuned anyway.
I loosened up the diff in my mugen mbx-5, so evey kit is different.

I'm def not trying to cause a problem here, but I have been through the online versions of the kit and FT manuals and cannot find a single word about limiters, checking uptravel, or related things, such as running without the boots. I can double-check my print version when I get home.

Someone with experience will probably know to double-check these things, but in any case, if there is a known problem, associated should at least have something about it on their website, and at best, provide replacement parts for people affected despite following carefully the published build instructions. Note that a FT driver including limiters in his setup is not sufficient notification, as it does not explain the possible problem with not using them.

Disclaimer: That's how I see these types of things, anyway. I certainly do not necessarily expect people to agree.

just got off the phone with associated and he explained the issue to me very detailed and now i understand. he said he'd be sending me the shims for the sun gear. he knew what the problem was instantly so i guess this is an issue with the truck. but he said this was a for sure fix...