That crash video is awesome.

The best is when you see a marshall take a spill while trying to get to your car. I've seen some vids of some guys here that ate it hard LOLOLOL

One of the guys at a race I went too was marshalling a 1/8 at the bottom of a jump, got hit in the ankle and fell and then got hit in the hamstring by another buggy. Tore his hamstring

Waaaaay back in like '04-05 we were running at a huge race down in Alabama. There was a guy turn-marshalling dead center of a triple. My teammates 1/8th scale Mugen came of the front end (the 1/8th nitros would clear the whole triple) at the same time as another and got bumped. The marshal turned around just in time to get caught square in the forehead by Goatboy's Mugen. It sounded like a bat hitting a wall. Dude was down and out for about 4 minutes. He ended up fine, but it was the hardest lick I ever seen laid on somebody by a r/c car.

Wow theres some really bad drivers in oregon lol

ordered my ack bar and center diff last nite,i liked the difference with the clutch basket and dual stage shock pistons so im gonna give these a try. i also think that putting front springs on the rear made the most noticeable difference in the way the truck reacted...thanks for all the good stuff guys....is there a sheet that guides you along with the pins in the center diff?

there is a link in the item description and lots of reading on the RCShox thread!
5 pins pretty much works everywhere and the best place to start.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post10441666

So I did the diff bearing mod tonight. After getting the diffs back together I noticed that the outdrives still wobble. I grounded down the diff cases to about 1.25 MM of stub left. I basically ground them down till I could fit the 10x16x4 bearing flush like it was with the 5x8x3 bearing sitting flush to the 10x16x4 bearing while sitting on the stub.

Do you guys think I maybe took too much of the stub off? Or is it normal to have a little wobble in them? At higher speeds, I don't notice the wobble. But at lower speeds it's evident. And I can wobbles the outdrives slightly while holding it in my hand.

thanks for the info and your cool products....

Yes, you should use a 5x10x3 bearing. Same bearing used in the idler gear. The bearing still sticks out of the large bearing some.

I did use a 5x10x3, not an 5x8x3 like I originally posted. So it should wobble a little still? My two bearings are sitting flush inside each other. I don't have any of the smaller bearing sticking out.

Here is couple pics of some of my own "dirt guards" I only race on carpet but have helped keep a good bit of fuzz off the bearings. Not sure how well they would hold up on the dirt but anybody can try them if you like. Also these are not lexan but scarp plastic I get from work so they are already black but I was also maybe going to make some clear ones also. If anybody is interested let me know.

Got a ticking sound on full throttle out of turns and sometimes after landing jumps on a brand new factory team. It sounds kind of like a belt slipping. It's not the clicker because its tightened all the way down and if off. Anyone know hat this could be?

A few posts back someone mentioned uptravel limiters being included with the kit. I recently put together a FT kit. I have a bunch of preload clips left over in the shock tower bag, is this what people are using/calling uptravel limiters?

If this is what I can use, where should I install, between the eyelet and the bumper?

Also, can anyone tell me with the 10mm ball stud, what is the maximum thickness of washers I can raise the inner-rear ball stud and still have it get full thread grip on the metal insert?

PS I am VERY new so apologies if the answers to these questions seem too obvious.

Mrplease & drol.

The clips in the shock bag are the travel limiters. You need 3 to 4 of those under the black rubber bumpers that are on the base of the shock shaft to limit up travel.

Without the limiting clips your suspension is allowed to travel too far causing the a arm and the cvd to make contact with the outdrive. That pushes the outdrive upwards and cones the shim under the sun gear loosening the gear mesh and then you get clicking or stripping of the diff gears.

A rear rebuild with a new set of gears is probably in order at this point, maybe while your in there a new diff case as well.
New shims under the sun gear (2 big gears in the diff).

Push the suspension ALL the way up, not just push the truck down to the table... all the way up. See the a arm and cvd getting into the outdrive?

This needs to become it's own thread so it's easier to find, many people have this same problem.

Mrplease & drol
Welcome to the wonderful world of the SC10 4X4! LOL
There is a a lot of good information on this thread