SC10 4x4 Thread
Sorry Jlinney ,
Shorter ends( lower roll center) on the box on either end will only make the suspension bind more , producing more roll & traction
Longer ends( higher roll center) on box makes less bind , less roll & traction....
Reason I am going all over again to end the confusion or bring insight about how more bind( lower center) in the suspension creates more traction & roll ....
Shorter ends( lower roll center) on the box on either end will only make the suspension bind more , producing more roll & traction
Longer ends( higher roll center) on box makes less bind , less roll & traction....
Reason I am going all over again to end the confusion or bring insight about how more bind( lower center) in the suspension creates more traction & roll ....
You have to admit Pushing the box to pivot on its corners is a great way to show how short ends on the box bind more or have more resistance to pivot back & forth...
I agree that you don't run pinions that small just because of a small track, but I think a lot of it depends on how much straight away length you have to actually open up the motor. On the indoor track i ran on here, I was down to I believe an 11T pinion, 62T spur with a tekin SCX 5.5 550 motor. It was the sweet spot on temps and power for the track that was 50 x 50. There wasn't a lot of places to open up the motor.
..I run on a 70x40 track, jumps right outta turns, short straightaways anything bigger than a 13 doesn't work..my motor temps are in the 130 range and speed controler temps are in the high 120's..this tells me I'm pretty close on the gearing..
so, since most guys are raising the outer 8mm, and inner 7mm in the rear, had anyone thought about doing the same thing to the front of the truck? i mean, its worth a shot dont you guys think
Cam, are you making the trip to the hank next weekend?
Cam, are you making the trip to the hank next weekend?
Tech Regular
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Posts: 447
From: Chicago
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 447
From: Chicago
So if I have ball stud washers under the ball studs in the back, I should also put washers under the outer link at the hub? And I should only raise the back, not the front ball studs? I try to follow this thread daily, but sometimes I get behind, so I might have missed that part about the washers under the outer link.
Also, what's the Camber mod I've been reading about? I seem to have missed that one.
Also, what's the Camber mod I've been reading about? I seem to have missed that one.

I have tested raising the front inner and outer and it caused traction rolls making the outside front going into positive camber mid corner. Needs more work with the inner camber location to work right. It is on the back burner right now.
No Hank race for me. I will be at NW Nationals in two weeks, then the Willamette classic, followed by the Scotty Ernest SC race. 3 weekends in June all big events. 
I have tested raising the front inner and outer and it caused traction rolls making the outside front going into positive camber mid corner. Needs more work with the inner camber location to work right. It is on the back burner right now.

I have tested raising the front inner and outer and it caused traction rolls making the outside front going into positive camber mid corner. Needs more work with the inner camber location to work right. It is on the back burner right now.
less roll
less traction
results will be less steering overall due to less binding in suspension.
maybe good for bumps & outdoor
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-21-2012 at 11:17 AM.



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