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Old 05-21-2012 | 09:33 AM
  #23626  
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DUP
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Old 05-21-2012 | 09:34 AM
  #23627  
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Sorry Jlinney ,


Shorter ends( lower roll center) on the box on either end will only make the suspension bind more , producing more roll & traction

Longer ends( higher roll center) on box makes less bind , less roll & traction....

Reason I am going all over again to end the confusion or bring insight about how more bind( lower center) in the suspension creates more traction & roll ....
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Old 05-21-2012 | 09:37 AM
  #23628  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Will someone who lives in Socal give Oasis a hug please?
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Old 05-21-2012 | 09:40 AM
  #23629  
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i got a lot of hugs lol
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Old 05-21-2012 | 09:44 AM
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No reason to be sorry Cherry, I don't race boxes therefore I can't comment on that one, LOL.
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Old 05-21-2012 | 09:51 AM
  #23631  
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Originally Posted by JLinney
No reason to be sorry Cherry, I don't race boxes therefore I can't comment on that one, LOL.
The suspension box sounds silly but it is the way I was given the explanation on how roll center effects the handling .

You have to admit Pushing the box to pivot on its corners is a great way to show how short ends on the box bind more or have more resistance to pivot back & forth...
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Old 05-21-2012 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain

I agree that you don't run pinions that small just because of a small track, but I think a lot of it depends on how much straight away length you have to actually open up the motor. On the indoor track i ran on here, I was down to I believe an 11T pinion, 62T spur with a tekin SCX 5.5 550 motor. It was the sweet spot on temps and power for the track that was 50 x 50. There wasn't a lot of places to open up the motor.
This is funny..you agree on "don't run pinions that small" yet you are running a small pinion based on TRACK SIZE....I run on a 70x40 track, jumps right outta turns, short straightaways anything bigger than a 13 doesn't work..my motor temps are in the 130 range and speed controler temps are in the high 120's..this tells me I'm pretty close on the gearing..
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Old 05-21-2012 | 10:00 AM
  #23633  
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so, since most guys are raising the outer 8mm, and inner 7mm in the rear, had anyone thought about doing the same thing to the front of the truck? i mean, its worth a shot dont you guys think


Cam, are you making the trip to the hank next weekend?
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Old 05-21-2012 | 10:00 AM
  #23634  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I built a jig so I could use my mill, but if you don't have one, I'd spend 15 minutes with a piece of 80grit sand paper laid flat on a table top. Its brass and plastic, works easy.
Thanks! I'll give it a go tonight.
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Old 05-21-2012 | 10:14 AM
  #23635  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
What's the best way to cut down the housings?
I did this yesterday. I used my buddy's bench grinder. I went real slow with it and it worked beautifully. I ground them down, test fit, grind, test fit, until I got it. Took me about 20 minutes for both diff's.
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Old 05-21-2012 | 10:24 AM
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So if I have ball stud washers under the ball studs in the back, I should also put washers under the outer link at the hub? And I should only raise the back, not the front ball studs? I try to follow this thread daily, but sometimes I get behind, so I might have missed that part about the washers under the outer link.

Also, what's the Camber mod I've been reading about? I seem to have missed that one.
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Old 05-21-2012 | 10:51 AM
  #23637  
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Originally Posted by jsamarin
so, since most guys are raising the outer 8mm, and inner 7mm in the rear, had anyone thought about doing the same thing to the front of the truck? i mean, its worth a shot dont you guys think


Cam, are you making the trip to the hank next weekend?
No Hank race for me. I will be at NW Nationals in two weeks, then the Willamette classic, followed by the Scotty Ernest SC race. 3 weekends in June all big events.

I have tested raising the front inner and outer and it caused traction rolls making the outside front going into positive camber mid corner. Needs more work with the inner camber location to work right. It is on the back burner right now.
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Old 05-21-2012 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
No Hank race for me. I will be at NW Nationals in two weeks, then the Willamette classic, followed by the Scotty Ernest SC race. 3 weekends in June all big events.

I have tested raising the front inner and outer and it caused traction rolls making the outside front going into positive camber mid corner. Needs more work with the inner camber location to work right. It is on the back burner right now.
Good luck in June Cam..I'm sure you will do great..
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Old 05-21-2012 | 11:05 AM
  #23639  
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Originally Posted by jsamarin
so, since most guys are raising the outer 8mm, and inner 7mm in the rear, had anyone thought about doing the same thing to the front of the truck? i mean, its worth a shot dont you guys think

Easy to predict , you will raising both sides assuming ..


less roll
less traction

results will be less steering overall due to less binding in suspension.

maybe good for bumps & outdoor

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 05-21-2012 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 05-21-2012 | 11:11 AM
  #23640  
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i ran her in the street not bad motor was not hot at all i can gear up some from a 12 to 13 14 or 15 i think
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