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Old 05-14-2012 | 05:56 PM
  #11911  
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Did you break the brushes in? If not they will not seat correctly. The old run it for a few minutes in water usually works...
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Old 05-14-2012 | 06:19 PM
  #11912  
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Originally Posted by DirtRacer68
I have a couple of quick questions;

1) What is everyone's preference, when it comes to look, fit and durability,
with the hex 3mm offset wheels? J Concepts, DE, Proline

2)What A-arm material is best for handling? plastic or carbon?

3) Does anyone know what is mounted on the chassis deck of Kinwald's ride in these pics? http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...own/?nggpage=8

Sorry guys for all the questions, I tried searching thread, with little success.

You may want to try the Avid wheels http://avidrc.com/product/2/wheels/4...-B-wheels.html

I just got a couple of sets real nice, actually alot of Avid's stuff is real nice.

Sharpen up your steering with this.
http://avidrc.com/product/5/accesori...ccesories.html
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Old 05-14-2012 | 06:32 PM
  #11913  
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Originally Posted by RCNurse
Did you break the brushes in? If not they will not seat correctly. The old run it for a few minutes in water usually works...
Ya I had him just puttin around on the tennis courts,set the EPA to 50% and be was just barley on the throttle,I'm going to pull the brushes out and put them back in
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Old 05-14-2012 | 07:51 PM
  #11914  
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im sure this question has been asked...but i dont feel like searching through 700 some pages of conversations...BUT...i have seen people run the c-hubs in the rear, i have that on my 4x4 with 7mm under the inner ball stud, do i put 7mm under the ball stud for the 2wd or less??
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Old 05-14-2012 | 08:17 PM
  #11915  
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Originally Posted by rimracker
You may want to try the Avid wheels http://avidrc.com/product/2/wheels/4...-B-wheels.html

I just got a couple of sets real nice, actually alot of Avid's stuff is real nice.

Sharpen up your steering with this.
http://avidrc.com/product/5/accesori...ccesories.html
That steering bellcrank is nice. Does it cause added stress anywhere else without the flex? Price isn't too bad so might have to pick one up to test her out.
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Old 05-14-2012 | 08:31 PM
  #11916  
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
Personally, and this is just my opinion so don't everyone get upset with me , I feel that Bob is correct. I have heard people at my track as well talking about the slop that still exists after installing the Avid bellcranks, and I feel like the slop that is still existent isn't really that big of a deal. The Avid bellcrank is designed to remove the servo saver spring, and that is what it does. Avid never claims to eliminate all the slop, but rather the flex that the saver spring causes. I think the small amount of side-to-side movement that exists at the steering rack with the Avid bellcranks installed is quite minimal. I think that if that small bit of movement wasn't there, the truck would probably drive almost exactly the same. I'm sure not everyone on here feels the same way about this topic as I do, but that's fine, everyone is fully allowed to have there own opinion about how things work. I just wanted to voice my feelings concerning the topic, and invite anyone else on here to as well
Nevermind just read this
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Old 05-14-2012 | 09:01 PM
  #11917  
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I just rebuilt my ball diff. today using the EXCELLENT video guide by Racer 53

I've used it in the past, and it leaves me with a butta' smooth ball differential everytime! I highly recommend checking it out if you haven't in the past. In addition, I believe that using carbide diff balls, and ceramic thrust balls is a key to such a smooth setup. Unfortunately, it took me about 4 hours to rebuild it because I insisted on cleaning every single piece I pulled out of the transmission case and differential. But in the end, it was all worth it!
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Old 05-14-2012 | 09:14 PM
  #11918  
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
I just rebuilt my ball diff. today using the EXCELLENT video guide by Racer 53

I've used it in the past, and it leaves me with a butta' smooth ball differential everytime! I highly recommend checking it out if you haven't in the past. In addition, I believe that using carbide diff balls, and ceramic thrust balls is a key to such a smooth setup. Unfortunately, it took me about 4 hours to rebuild it because I insisted on cleaning every single piece I pulled out of the transmission case and differential. But in the end, it was all worth it!
+1
I use the same except I break my diff in on the bench using an old dog bone and a cordless drill...Here's Nisomike's picture of it. It saves the ball cups from being taken off and on so many times.
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Old 05-15-2012 | 02:40 AM
  #11919  
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Originally Posted by rimracker
You may want to try the Avid wheels http://avidrc.com/product/2/wheels/4...-B-wheels.html

I just got a couple of sets real nice, actually alot of Avid's stuff is real nice.

Sharpen up your steering with this.
http://avidrc.com/product/5/accesori...ccesories.html
Yeah those rims look sweet and they should have a better fit with the avid hexes. I had already ordered the steering bellcrank for the sc10 after trying it on the buggy. What are the team drivers using for the a- arms...plastic or carbon?
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Old 05-15-2012 | 07:59 AM
  #11920  
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Originally Posted by cschroedersc10
im sure this question has been asked...but i dont feel like searching through 700 some pages of conversations...BUT...i have seen people run the c-hubs in the rear, i have that on my 4x4 with 7mm under the inner ball stud, do i put 7mm under the ball stud for the 2wd or less??
anyone?
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Old 05-15-2012 | 08:46 AM
  #11921  
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Originally Posted by cschroedersc10
im sure this question has been asked...but i dont feel like searching through 700 some pages of conversations...BUT...i have seen people run the c-hubs in the rear, i have that on my 4x4 with 7mm under the inner ball stud, do i put 7mm under the ball stud for the 2wd or less??
Originally Posted by cschroedersc10
anyone?
I haven't seen the C-hub on a 2WD SC10. But I don't feel like searching either.
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Old 05-15-2012 | 08:51 AM
  #11922  
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Originally Posted by J_Bone
I haven't seen the C-hub on a 2WD SC10. But I don't feel like searching either.
ive seen it on a couple, but i didnt want to snoop around their stuff and look how many they had
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Old 05-15-2012 | 10:16 AM
  #11923  
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Originally Posted by J_Bone
+1
I use the same except I break my diff in on the bench using an old dog bone and a cordless drill...Here's Nisomike's picture of it. It saves the ball cups from being taken off and on so many times.
I believe I have seen that on here before and thought it was such a great idea. I would definitely do this, but unfortunately I do not have any spare dogbones that I could cut the end off of. Maybe I'll have to look at my LHS tonight when I go to the track and see what's the cheapest I could get one for. But, thanks for showing me that tip!
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Old 05-15-2012 | 10:21 AM
  #11924  
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Originally Posted by cschroedersc10
im sure this question has been asked...but i dont feel like searching through 700 some pages of conversations...BUT...i have seen people run the c-hubs in the rear, i have that on my 4x4 with 7mm under the inner ball stud, do i put 7mm under the ball stud for the 2wd or less??

Not really understanding what you are asking

C-hubs means they are running the Alum. FT hubs so they can run the C-towers which lowers the outer ball stud about 2mm which lowers the roll center. normally when people run those they also shave the U-brace ball studs mounts to have link dropped equal amount inner/outer. In kinda counter acts the roll center though. Lowering the inner stud increases the roll center and lowering the outer stud decreases the roll center. But you lower the link equal on each end.

I run this on my B4.1. IT helps with traction but also can cause a lot of push..
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Old 05-15-2012 | 10:42 AM
  #11925  
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Originally Posted by Acill
Ever have one of those nights at the track? I just could not get my line down. I ended up taking 5th in the end, but man I was fighting my truck all night. I think every adjustment I made was out of anger and I just made things worse.

One thing I will say, the Avid kit made things much more responsive! I actually had to tun up my expo and slow my steering down a little bit!!
That's weird that you had this problem to! I installed my new Savox-1258TG servo, and the Avid bellcranks, and I couldn't get my truck to go straight! I adjusted the steering trim, the adjustable servo link, the turnbuckles... but I just couldn't get my truck to go in a straight line. The front wheels looked perfectly parallel, but it sure didn't drive like they were. I have no idea what was going on with it, every adjustment I would make seemed to make it worse. I have practice again tonight though, so hopefully by the time it's over, I'll have been able to get the thing going straight.
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