SC10 4x4 Thread
dropping the dif oil gives you more turn in less out.
the reason you have to run 30k with the stock slipper setup is that the steering is so aggressive its barely driveable without the back spinning on every turn. now that the Cdif is available you have more control of the steering and the truck handle "normally" so normal dif fluids can be used. if you use 30 with the dif it will not turn at all!!
I've purchased the rtr version of this truck, I have to sayi was bitterly disappointed in it. The truck was near un drivable track happy as hell very nervous at speed.
I've also got the losi scte rtr now or of the box with the tyres it came with I was driving like a pro!
I haven't given up on the sc10 yet and had got the upgrade pack from AE im yet to run it.
Reading through this thread im mightily confused as to which direction I should go to get the truck confident on the dirt tracks
To say im mightily disappointed is an understatement considering how awesome the losi is out of the box
I've also got the losi scte rtr now or of the box with the tyres it came with I was driving like a pro!
I haven't given up on the sc10 yet and had got the upgrade pack from AE im yet to run it.
Reading through this thread im mightily confused as to which direction I should go to get the truck confident on the dirt tracks
To say im mightily disappointed is an understatement considering how awesome the losi is out of the box
Play with setup for your track, pro setups on the AE site are a good start.
Better tires on a +3mm Wheel set.
Center diff from rcshox will also make a huge difference.
Last edited by fq06; 05-09-2012 at 04:39 PM.
Took my FT SC10 out to the track today and was very very happy with how it performed except for I didn't have much on power steering, I am running the FT slipper setup but will be switching back to the V2 center diff very soon, any advice/tips on setups for better on power steering or will switching back to center diff solve the issue?????? Oh and I run on a hardpacked tight clay track...........
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It needs more weight, add strips of lead along the center line and 35 grams ish front left corner next to the servo. Or exotec chassis if $ is not an issue with 35 grams front left.
Play with setup for your track, pro setups on the AE site are a good start.
Better tires on a +3mm Wheel set.
Center diff from rcshox will also make a huge difference.
Play with setup for your track, pro setups on the AE site are a good start.
Better tires on a +3mm Wheel set.
Center diff from rcshox will also make a huge difference.
Im running the +3 mm jconcepts wheels stock wheels were useless.
I'll try the rshox cdiff if that doesn't
Change then I'll have to abandon it maybe give it to my 15 yr old!
The C-Diff fixes the power distribution to make it more drivable.
Chassis brace stiffens the truck up, but I have not installed one yet so I can say it's necessary... but I have the exotek chassis so I haven't felt the need for it.
With the C-Diff, run 5k fluids front and rear diff.
Put a 1mm clip and a 2mm clip (3mm total + 5mm rubber bumper... 8 total) under the rubber bumper on the front & rear shock shafts before the washers under the sun gears in the diffs are toast creating slop in the diff gear mesh and giving you the gift of the skipping rear diff or clicking rear diff... whatever you want to call it. The cvd and/or a arm will make contact with the outdrive pushing it up and creating havoc in the diff.
If you want to get really disco, add the 2 stage pistons from rcshox and go up in shock oil weight (ultimately depends on your track, I'm 40f/35r).
If anyone has two cents to add.. continue my thoughts.
Last edited by fq06; 05-09-2012 at 10:03 PM.
Tech Regular
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 423
From: Perris, California
Yeah, give it some weight down low. Either lead weight strips or exotek (it's sexy) to get it planted to the track and reduce traction rolls.
The C-Diff fixes the power distribution to make it more drivable.
Chassis brace stiffens the truck up, but I have not installed one yet so I can say it's necessary... but I have the exotek chassis so I haven't felt the need for it.
With the C-Diff, run 5k fluids front and rear diff.
Put a 1mm clip and a 2mm clip (3mm total + 5mm rubber bumper... 8 total) under the rubber bumper on the front & rear shock shafts before the washers under the sun gears in the diffs are toast creating slop in the diff gear mesh and giving you the gift of the skipping rear diff or clicking rear diff... whatever you want to call it. The cvd and/or a arm will make contact with the outdrive pushing it up and creating havoc in the diff.
If you want to get really disco, add the 2 stage pistons from rcshox and go up in shock oil weight (ultimate depends on your track, I'm 40f/35r).
If anyone has two cents to add.. continue my thoughts.
The C-Diff fixes the power distribution to make it more drivable.
Chassis brace stiffens the truck up, but I have not installed one yet so I can say it's necessary... but I have the exotek chassis so I haven't felt the need for it.
With the C-Diff, run 5k fluids front and rear diff.
Put a 1mm clip and a 2mm clip (3mm total + 5mm rubber bumper... 8 total) under the rubber bumper on the front & rear shock shafts before the washers under the sun gears in the diffs are toast creating slop in the diff gear mesh and giving you the gift of the skipping rear diff or clicking rear diff... whatever you want to call it. The cvd and/or a arm will make contact with the outdrive pushing it up and creating havoc in the diff.
If you want to get really disco, add the 2 stage pistons from rcshox and go up in shock oil weight (ultimate depends on your track, I'm 40f/35r).
If anyone has two cents to add.. continue my thoughts.
Do you have a part number for 1 mm and 2mm clip and 5mm rubber bumper and a pic so I can see what they look like ?
Yeah, give it some weight down low. Either lead weight strips or exotek (it's sexy) to get it planted to the track and reduce traction rolls.
The C-Diff fixes the power distribution to make it more drivable.
Chassis brace stiffens the truck up, but I have not installed one yet so I can say it's necessary... but I have the exotek chassis so I haven't felt the need for it.
With the C-Diff, run 5k fluids front and rear diff.
Put a 1mm clip and a 2mm clip (3mm total + 5mm rubber bumper... 8 total) under the rubber bumper on the front & rear shock shafts before the washers under the sun gears in the diffs are toast creating slop in the diff gear mesh and giving you the gift of the skipping rear diff or clicking rear diff... whatever you want to call it. The cvd and/or a arm will make contact with the outdrive pushing it up and creating havoc in the diff.
If you want to get really disco, add the 2 stage pistons from rcshox and go up in shock oil weight (ultimate depends on your track, I'm 40f/35r).
If anyone has two cents to add.. continue my thoughts.
The C-Diff fixes the power distribution to make it more drivable.
Chassis brace stiffens the truck up, but I have not installed one yet so I can say it's necessary... but I have the exotek chassis so I haven't felt the need for it.
With the C-Diff, run 5k fluids front and rear diff.
Put a 1mm clip and a 2mm clip (3mm total + 5mm rubber bumper... 8 total) under the rubber bumper on the front & rear shock shafts before the washers under the sun gears in the diffs are toast creating slop in the diff gear mesh and giving you the gift of the skipping rear diff or clicking rear diff... whatever you want to call it. The cvd and/or a arm will make contact with the outdrive pushing it up and creating havoc in the diff.
If you want to get really disco, add the 2 stage pistons from rcshox and go up in shock oil weight (ultimate depends on your track, I'm 40f/35r).
If anyone has two cents to add.. continue my thoughts.
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Posts: 1,207
That kind of gives me the impression that the excessive heat is not being generated by the motor, but more that it is heat being transferred to the motor plate by the wimpy slipper that is included in the RTR..... I remember that was a fairly common issue before the HD pads, Garodiscs, clutch basket, etc....
Edit: no damage to v1 or v2 pistons testing up to 45wt, not recommend for the faint hearted
Last edited by fq06; 05-09-2012 at 10:05 PM.
I've discussed with Marcus and he agrees that it too thick. That's my style of driving, I've always wanted a thicker than recommend weight. I flow the track more than I point and shoot... so it fits my style. Not for everyone obviously by the weights that are the consensus.
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 115
How much total added lead weight do you have?
Do I remember correctly that you have Exotech pluse 35grams in front of servo?
How much weight does Exotech add?
I may be able to get my fingers on an Exotech in a few days...
I'm loving the feel of my stocker with added weight (I don't have it balanced yet...)
I've discussed with Marcus and he agrees that it too thick. That's my style of driving, I've always wanted a thicker than recommend weight. I flow the track more than I point and shoot... so it fits my style. Not for everyone obviously by the weights that are the consensus.
Edit: no damage to v1 or v2 pistons testing up to 45wt, not recommend for the faint hearted
Edit: no damage to v1 or v2 pistons testing up to 45wt, not recommend for the faint hearted

with oils that high you dont get the benefit of the faster rebound, kinda defeats the purpose, the truck will "skip" over the small stuff especially with a light truck. Im a flow driver also coming from an onroad background too, did you even try the thinner oils?
remember the point of 2 stage is to allow the shocks to absorb the small stuff while having enough pack for the hard landings. if your oil is that thick the compression is already too slow so even the "quicker" rebound is also going to be too slow. On a flat ultra high grip track (astro turf, carpet) you would be fine but i promise you will achieve faster laptimes with oils in the sub 30 range, thats how i designed them!



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