OK thanks. I was looking at the at the rules posted on the USVTA website it doesn't state anything about gearing. Just specific speed controls and the Novak 25.5 motor only along with the spec tire and body rules.
http://www.usvintagetransam.com/rules/index.html

OK. So it sounds like basically the same gearing Im running on my 17.5 TC. I wasnt sure how much taller a gear the higher wind motor would pull. I can start there and see how it goes. I just though considering the motor is fixed there may be a pretty well targeted FDR for this setup.

The AE system works wonderfully. Especially if you do it sorta like the instructions describe. You can add two loops of tape on either side. You can keep those there pretty much forever. Then two small pieces of tape attached to the loops to fasten the battery. Just replace those two small pieces as necessary.

Some people just run tape under the battery and around. I've found that to be really annoying as the stick tape is exposed whenever there isnt a battery in the car.

Velcro looks messy to me and tape is a lot cheaper.

If you're running the Novak Ballistic 25.5, the timing is adjustable. When I ran VTA, I always kept the timing around 43°. The motor seemed to run better, just shy of having the timing maxed. I played with the gearing, but in the end I stayed at 3.71. If I went much below 3.8, I would get passed in the straight. I haven't read the rules in a while, but I'm pretty sure the rule says no more than 3.70 FDR. At least that's what we did at my track.

If you're running blinky 17.5, then yes.. almost exactly the same FDR will apply in VTA.



There is no longer a FDR cap under USVTA rules, fwiw.

Got me the Dual Cardan Joints from Reflexracing.

They are screwed together.

Do I have to take them apart and use grease of some sort where the joints come together?

Do I have to put shrink tube around the joints in the middle?

Or is all of that not necessary?

Thanks! I'm using a 1/2" velcro loop right now, but it sounds like tape may be the way to go. The velcro will eventually lose its grip.

I would take them apart and grease them. Also, add some threadlock to the setscrews. Heatshrink never hurts, but is not 100% necessary

associated has released new ballstud bearing caps. These change the inner ballstuds to mount like those on the sray 2012.
My question is this:
Does this really make the car better?
Also, can I use my old shock towers or do I HAVE to buy the new ones? I'm trying to NOT spend a fortune to get a better car.

thanks,
tim

It doesn't make your car faster, but it gives you more tuning options.

Rest is explained below

New shock towers are not required, you can still run the stock ones. Rick or Sean has mentioned it before on here. The only difference between the current and new ones are the holes for the upper link are gone.

ok, that was what I was wondering. It seemed silly to buy new shock towers if the old ones worked fine.

are there any setup sheets with the new vertical ballstud system?

Just use the outter most hole if you are racing on asphalt

If you run the original shock towers you need to dremel off the #7 camber link on the shock tower as the new bulkhead caps foul on this. But like thunderbt3 said you dont have to go out and buy the new towers. The new bulkhead caps just allow you to make finer adjustments to your roll centre.

Some one have a good setup for TC6.1 on asphalt ? For Low-medium grip, long and larg track... I use Sorex 36 or Ride 32 and run with 4.5 boosted


Thanks!

I have a tc6.1 and im running on a small carpet track with medium traction. I am havin a issue with my inside rear wheel lifting uder power about 60% of the way through cornering. I put the white sway bar on the rear to help and it did a little bit but it is still doing it. I have 55 wt oil in the front an 40 wt in the rear with the stock silver springs all the way around. Does anyone have any set up tips or advice to help with this issue? Thanks for reading