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Old 05-01-2012 | 11:29 PM
  #14236  
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Originally Posted by SoccerSting
How thick should they be?
3mm
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Old 05-01-2012 | 11:48 PM
  #14237  
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Default B4 FTW!

I have been driving a kyosho rb5 for the last 5 months or so and done all the cool stuff to it that the pros do, +10 custom chassis, all the upgrade parts etc.
I recently just put together a b4.1 WC and have had two races on it and WOW.
The kyosho is a great car but compared to the b4 at least for me, the kyosho feels like a big fluffy marshmallow. With the B4 I can push it harder, it responds much better and I can "feel" what the car is doing through the radio. Indoor and outdoor it has proven to be great, last week took the stock buggy win by 15 seconds, and tonight took the stock buggy and mod buggy win with a stock motor in blinky mode against 8.5's and 10.5's. The combination of the +8 chassis, avid goodies and kyosho springs really wrap up this car nicely.
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Old 05-02-2012 | 03:54 AM
  #14238  
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hey guys,

Could you guys help me out with the size of the screws that come with the jc 12mm hexes?
thanks
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Old 05-02-2012 | 04:29 AM
  #14239  
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I believe it's 2x4mm's. The stock ones are to short and easily strip the hex. Replace with a 2x6mm cap head.
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Old 05-02-2012 | 04:43 AM
  #14240  
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thank you
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Old 05-02-2012 | 07:01 AM
  #14241  
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Originally Posted by rdeppen
I believe it's 2x4mm's. The stock ones are to short and easily strip the hex. Replace with a 2x6mm cap head.
+1 here are the ones i used> part# PTK-H-1003 they have a perfect fit using every available thread on the hex's! they are listed under Amainhobbies Protek brand screws.
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Old 05-02-2012 | 07:03 AM
  #14242  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
You can trim down the black ones, just use some fine sandpaper. Or if you want to get the whites the part # is 6440
Will The orings in that kit work with the v2's?
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Old 05-02-2012 | 07:06 AM
  #14243  
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Originally Posted by SoccerSting
Will The orings in that kit work with the v2's?
Yes they will work
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Old 05-02-2012 | 07:06 AM
  #14244  
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Originally Posted by SoccerSting
Will The orings in that kit work with the v2's?
the o-rings are the same,the spacer is what was changed
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Old 05-02-2012 | 07:50 AM
  #14245  
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***Fundraiser***

Screw kits for the B4/T4 and SC10

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...nd-raiser.html

Still have plenty left.
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Old 05-02-2012 | 09:57 AM
  #14246  
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If you don't want the Avid springs I'll take them off your hands for you!


Originally Posted by gguertin145
I have some big bore spring questions...

First the AE Brown and AE Green are considered the best combo almost everywhere I run and the spring rates from what I see on the charts are Brown 2.8 and Green 1.9.

From what I see the closest Losi springs are orange 2.9 front and Yellow 2.0 rear or white 1.8... These are pretty close numbers and I have the springs but have not used them yet.

I just ordered the avid springs wanting to try them as well this summer but looking at the rates I see rear white is 1.89 perfect but the front options are white 2.6 and yellow 3.0... Seems like quite a difference from the AE 2.8.

Does anyone have any experience running the avid spring kit? Are they having to change pistons and oil to prevent the loss of steering when going with a 3.0 front spring? Does running a big bore spring or a spring with a different number of coils change the desired rate? Please don't shy away from a technical answer

I know progressiveness will play a roll too but I do not see that measured anywhere to compare.
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Old 05-02-2012 | 11:07 AM
  #14247  
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Are Velvet BB shocks still a good investment or would it be better to wait for AE to release their BB?
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Old 05-02-2012 | 11:17 AM
  #14248  
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Originally Posted by idrummerboy13
+111111111


golds are terrible unless there is a fresh layout. i don't understand why indoor compounds usually do not work indoors around here. Right now bite at irh is all over the place...
Because the soil type you have in the midwest is different than the soil type that they have in SoCal (where they developed the compounds). It has to do with the soils parent material, the clay content, and to a smaller part, the acidity.

In central California, clay compounds may or may not work here depending on where the soil came from. At A Main in Chico, or OCRC, or SDRC, or WCRC, no problem if its damp.
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Old 05-02-2012 | 11:32 AM
  #14249  
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Originally Posted by kdub
This statement below from Wild Cherry is NOT correct.

The 2 and 3 hole caster blocks have the same geometry, but the 3 hole versions are a slightly softer material and have the hinge pin hole molded, where the 2 hole FT caster blocks are drilled. The 2-hole blocks are shot in the super-stiff carbon material, so some racers notice a handling difference due to flex. The drilled blocks are also succeptible to shifting in the fixture and not being identical left/right...so I run the molded caster blocks which are the same every time they're made.

COACH

========================================
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
The difference is not really the plastic .....
The difference is the 3 hole axle height is .030 higher than the two hole version .
What does this all mean to how the car handles ?
Three hole has smoother or less steering compared to the two hole ....*
*Comparing both with the steering block installed in the middle of the caster block...
So ? If you ran the three hole block .030 lower , it would be the same as a 2 hole in the middle ....

Thank you for the correction Kdub, be surprised how many around Trcr have always thought the 3 hole was as I posted.....

Also ordered a set of 12mm Avid springs today ....
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Old 05-02-2012 | 12:34 PM
  #14250  
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Has anybody in here tried using 3 hole drilled pistons?
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