Hey guys I have a quick question.

I searched the thread and found out some poeple where grinding down the U brace. Is there a reason for this?
Couldn't find an explanation under any old post.

This is raising rear roll center

As per X-ray:

Decrease on power steering
Increase weight transfer to front of car
Increases responsiveness
Decrease chassis roll
Use in high grip conditions to prevent traction roll mid corner and exit
Better on tracks with quick direction changes

Now that said, I've seen a lot of people doing this plus using the carbon c tower in the middle hole for a longer link. This lowers your roll center, which I think people are doing to calm the car down on entry. Anyone with more experience with this setup please chime in. Haven't had a chance to shave the brace and install my c towers yet.

Best I can tell, this combined with the C Hubs allows you to lower the camber link about 2mm and it looks like this setup provides more steering.

Didn't like it, gave mine a push.

Did you try running on the outer or middle position on the outer link? I read a little more into the effects of both of these adjustments combined?

I did a little further reading and found that basically:

Shave U brace which raises roll center

run longer link to counteract raise in roll center, but achieve a lower camber gain.

Net effect: less entry steering more steering mid corner / exit.

I'm just making deduction from some light reading on the effects of each individual adjustment. Again any insight would be appreciated!

Mine couldnt possibly push worse than it does right now so I'll take my chances

Did same thing to mine. Pushed way to much out of the corners

What size are the roll pins for the front hex conversion? I used roll pins from the rear of my 22 on Friday but they werent a very good fit.

1/16" (or 1.5mm) diameter, 3/8" length.

There is nothing on the shim; the number on the block indicates toe in, you adjust kick up with shims.

What I'm asking is one shim one degree or two? I'll call AE and ask Don.

Would love the advice on how to set-up my B4.1 for 13.5 racing on a hard packed track, any ideas? Thanks

The older shims have tabs on the front side: 1 bump for 1 degree, 2 bumps for 2 degree. The B4.1 FT shims have a number on them.

Thanks, you rock!

Just the mid-position. Didn't do much testing with it. New car built with the C towers/shaved brace right off the bat. Had a couple of sessions working with the front to work out the push. Rear always felt too locked in, moved to the A towers/stock brace and the push was gone.

would there be any handling differences from the 2 to 3 hole caster blocks?i run the 3 hole 30 degree blocks and my car is really hooked up