I never really had "problems" with the 22, but I found it very finicky in regards to tuning at set up. I ran it stock, and then tried all the mods. Rebuilt my diff a half a dozen times, because it wore pretty quickly. I consulted with all the local pros, read the forums, etc. For me all of this is part of getting the car dialed to the driver's liking, but for some reason I could never quite get it to the point where the car was doing it's job and the driver was the one who needed improvement. There were times when I thought I had the car dialed in, but my lap times did not seem to reflect how the car felt. I felt I was going fast but in reality I was lucky to make the B-main.

I loved the look of the 22, the design and engineering, parts availability, it was all great, but I could not drive the car as fast as I wanted. It's a great car but not for me.

Funny, but I can't explain why I am so much faster with the B4. I compared my lap times to when I had the 22. I am on average 2 seconds faster per lap, and was able to pull off 11 laps at my track when 10 was a stretch for me in the 22. The more time I spend with the car the faster I get. And just to be fair, I spent the same amount of time with the 22, but I did not see the same improvement. I guess the B4.1 is just easier for me to drive.

In reality the B4.1 Worlds is pretty good out of the box with little tinkering. I can run it on different tracks with minimal adjustments. I could not do that with the 22.

The 22 is definitely a potent car in the right hands, just not mine.

I know what you mean about slop. I drop the car several times from about 10", and check the ride height with a ride height gauge and the camber with a camber gauge. I do this and adjust until it stays in adjustment more than out, sort of an average I guess. The ride height is pretty consistant, but I recently figured out that when I change tires I need to measure again because tires come in different heights and can throw the ride height out of whack. A mm of ride height can deffinitely affect handling. As far as toe, I use a homemade set up rig to measure toe and keep it at zero. I also tried zero degree of front camber and found the car was harder to control. -1 all around works great for me. For me right on means regularly checking the settings between heats, especially if I land hard or catch a pipe.

Ok that makes sense. I do an average as well. I would be interested in seeing how you do the toe-in. I never really thought about the different tire heights. Do you take a setup board along to the track, so you have a flat surface to work from?

If you give me 10 looks at my car front end I might eyeball the toe differently 5 times. To help myself see better I place a 12 inch ruler against the inside tire and see how the ruler compares to the chassis edges or the battery box (which is theoretically square).

Best way I have found to setup my rc's is to: get the camber and toe close, then set my ride height with my Losi ride height guage. I use calipers and make the preload on my shock collars exact. Set ride height with the tires you plan to use the very next time on the track. After my ride height is set, I put a set of wheels on my rc without tires. Then set camber and toe. A wheel without a tire is a much better surface to measure camber. For toe, I have a set of 12 inch calipers. I turn on my RC and let the servo center itself, then measure across the front of the wheels, inside edge to inside edge. Then the back of the wheels, basically setting the calipers on the top plate. After toe is set, I drive my rc down the straight really slow and set the trim.

Just did the Losi BB upgrade on my B4.1 and I am using White springs in the rear. Have switched to the Traxxas retainers, but now seems like I can not get my ride height low enough in the rear. Are people cutting the springs in the rear to get the ride height down where it needs to be or am I missing something.

I use a bulldog right now. Yea the stock wings crack easy, i always use 6.5 jc wings they last longest and look the best to me.

I did use a finisher and I thought it was more aggressive and had some more steering, the bulldog took that out and almost feels more on the calm side which i do like but honestly I just use a body based on looks. Not feel. I may grab a FTW just because its cool looking to me. Plus it is different. Id rather stand out on the field as far as looks, not me crashing after i moved up to mod lol.

I move to mod and doing 2 laps worse then my 13.5 time which is about 6 seconds off mod pace. :roll eyes: Got to practice lol.

Still looking, someone has to have some old RTR shocks, old turnbuckles from upgrading in their pit box.

How far off are you? Don't cut the springs. I have the Traxxas collars on mine with the Losi BB white springs and can get 24mm ride height no problem. I have about 4 turns left on the collars. Are the bottom shock eyelets screwed into the shafts far enough. A couple more turns could easily be a mm or more. Are you using limiters inside the shocks? I believe 2 is the most common and would be good for another 2mm or so.

ThunderbirdJunkie uses the TLR spring cups, not the Traxxas ones, for his TLR BB springs. The Traxxas spring cups are significantly taller.

I dont take a set up board but I found my table is pretty flat. Besides I don't go too crazy because we are driving off road, in dirt, with jumps and bumps. Tolerances are not the same as they would be for onroad.

Pretty much my goal is to keep the set up as close to where it should be as the possible. As my driving improves I can begin to tell when the toe or camber is off, or the ride height is wrong. My car will start to wander, become looser, and as was said, more difficult to square up going over jumps. 9 times out of 10 when the car feels wrong it is because of one of the things I mentioned is out of whack.

Everyone should be checking ride height, toe and camber every round. I know for some it doesn't make a difference because it may just be club racing, but if you get into the habit now, you are more likely to do it at bigger races. I find that while not increasing lap times, it will make the car more consistent. In turn making you more consistent.

Ride height, camber, toe! In that order! Been proven on full scale racecars for at least the last century or so... And check it before each run!

In regards to ride height issues, springs will sag a bit in time, till they take a set. Check ride height before EVERY run!

is it better to run shorty or long lipos? and why??? thanks

I am off by 2-3mm, will check to see if they are screwed in all the way. I am running the Traxxas spring retainer not the Losi, could be my problem. I know other guys run the Traxxas with no issue. I run 2 limiters in the rear.