I would, if you can make time. If you can cycle your batteries like you can on the Competition electronics stuff (it will discharge at 30 or 35 amps depending on which one you have), you can figure out exactly how many MHA you have to budget, then you can check how many MHA it takes every time you charge it.

Or you could try it with a stopwatch and run till you get to the lipo cutoff. If you make enough minutes, you're good.

I need some advice for a motor and clutch baskets I've. been working on reading this thread but still have along way to go. what clutch ba sket is best? What size tekin. pro4? Running largeoutdoor 1/8 track.

Screw the fact I was giving input and mods too.

...up until I gave up with no patience for the same question twice a day.

The clicker lets the truck turn like a 2WD, when you let go of the throttle, the front wheels freewheel. My brother in law actually runs an open clicker, it's useful for very tight tracks as you can turn very sharp with it.

I raced with the ball diff for the first time yesterday, best mod so far, truck was faster than ever before and would power in a nice straight line, even if the front wheels were turned abit on take off, impressed me alot, took some getting used to drive, the two "fast guys" at my track run a losi and one a rango, they are both better drivers than I am, even at national level, ones an ex national champ, by the end of a race i'm often close to a lap down, or I am a lap down, well yesterday I was close behind these guys, one mistake and I was close enough to pass, fastest i've been with this truck.

I was wondering, we all have guys who beat us often, with all the mods to your truck, is anybody now beating the local "fast guy" or are we just losing by less?

Hey Coyote, what mods are required for this truck, and what's a good setup, and what parts should I pick up for spares?
Sorry, I have the memory of a goldfish. Yes, Coyote has a brain that you can pick as well....just attempt to use the search function first, and if you still cannot find what you're looking for, then ask.

4600 with the rcshox center diff.

You can pull some power out of the 4600 with current limiting, or launch control if it is too much for the layout of your track.... You can't add more power to the 4000

I've never had an issue with run time and we run a 12 min A. When I use a single stick pack it's a Max Amps 6500mha. I just thought that two shortys would be better for weight and balance. I already had the shortys because of my Losi 22t. I wasn't sure I wanted to spend the $ and get the saddle packs and brace. Don't mind spending the bucks if it's really worth doing...

Yes i tried adding a flat piece of lead to the bottom of the chassis before the EXO came out(there are pix on this thread somewhere), besides the weight, there was still too much flex.

You should at least try the EXO so you can give an honest opinion on the two, i have tried both and the EXO is better!


I am biased on truck performance because the tracks i run on are large 1/8 scale tracks where the Losi excells. Indoors , from the nats a few weeks ago i can say that the Losi cant handle the AE for sure!

nice!! have you tried the other stuff i sent ya yet?

All of a sudden it seems you are liking the outside tracks more

Great news and congrats!

Hey !
You just made me chuckle a little ..... ( Goldfish)

So do you benefit more from the center diff or the V2 slipper?

I will be running mostly on outdoor medium sized tracks and tight indoor high traction tracks.

I'm fixing to order the ft upgrade kit to run saddles but I keep reading about how good the center diff is.

My truck is set up exactly as you describe. I've posted it a couple times. Using carbon fiber in the bottom took out most of the torsional flex without adding much weight. Stick down the center with the steel skid plate up front keeps weight low and centered. I've let a few guys run it that have losi's and/or 1/8 e buggies and all they say is "damn that thing stays planted". The only thing it doesn't have is good in air correction. I didn't know how bad until I started running my Durango. The front springs on the rear help get good attitude when jumping but we don't have any huge jumps so I don't know how it would fly over a 30-40ft triple. I have friends running sadde packs and exotek's in their trucks and they just feel slower side to side and not as planted. Need to take a road trip to a big 1/8 track and stretch it's. Legs.

Finally got to run my truck yesterday, and it felt pretty darn good! Started out with Barcodes all the way around, and it was decent, but the track started to dry out.

Threw a set of Blockades on the back, and it felt awesome (I prefer the clicker). Ran a Tekin 5.5 geared 16/62, and it was slow. Had to pick up a Pro4 4600, but didn't get a chance to run it yet.

I get to test it on a hardpacked indoor track Wednesday, can't wait.

Has the cause of the wobbly outdrives been determined yet? I need to rebuild mine currently, but it hasn't started clicking yet.

For the outdrives: first make sure you limit the shock up travel so the drive shafts don't hit the cups when fully compressed. The bronze bushings wear quickly and the only thing that helps that is the diff bearing mod. Try looking back around post 19147 for. Some descriptions.