Still running my original diff but man it got beat to heck even with shock limiters possibly from the rubber stock a arms and large jumps at a couple of tracks I visit. I know this is a rehash and have read this entire thread but don't know where things stand on this now...

Replacing arms with RPM right now, using shock limiters. I haven't done anything at all with the diffs in a while because of how worn out the bushings are on the diff and the fact that all diff oil leaks out too quick. If I use these RPM arms with limiters how well will the stock diff hold up? Perhaps I should have serviced them after every race?? That hurts if so as I;ve had other diffs hold up much better.

I tend to believe it was the soft arms causing the issues, they remind me of a toothbrush lol.

So, should I go stock diff or mod one with the bearing? Or, is someone selling the mod diff case already?

But then again, could a modded part ever be as good as AE's???? Sorry for that, all in good fun. I appreciate everyone's input.

Rpm arms and 2mm clips all around and you should be good. No more wobbly outdrive on mine.
Replace the diff housing and make sure the arm and the cvd are not contacting the outdrive.
Here's a quick read on it...
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...eration-2.html

Has anyone noticed missing screws from the FT kit? When I was attaching The shock towers on page 14 and 15, I noticed that I only had 2 Of the 3x12mm screws for each tower. I'm halfway through the kit so I'm hoping they will turn up in a different bag.

That sucks, i did not have this problem when i built mine.

i pick up a new losi 8 t kit theres where i bin .

Hey guys, wondering if any of you new FT owners are also running the new V2 center diff? I went to install it last night on my FT but looks like the VTS outer slipper hub won't work? Has anyone had success using it and if so how did you go about it. I contacted Marcus and Cameron and it sounds like I need to get the old outer slipper hub to get it to work. Any help is appreciated.

I think I was one of the early adopters of the RPM arms. They lasted one race day at a big track, as they deform more quickly than the AE parts IMO. They are stiffer, if you run indoor they are likely fine. Mark them with a silver metallic sharpie on one side after you get them installed, and flip them L/R once a race day for maximum life (my AE arms now have 9 race days on them and are arrow straight since I started rotating them).

Many users had been using 5mm of uptravel limiters to keep the CVA's out of the outdrives. Hartson and Kory showed like 7-8mm of travel limiters inside their shocks. I have no idea why they did it, but it can't possibly hurt the outdrive, so I'd encourage you to look at using that many.

Problem is, that doesn't keep the diff bushing from wearing out. My CVA's have no marks on them from hitting the outdrives because I used 5mm of limiters right out of the box, but that didn't stop my outdrives from getting unacceptably wobbly.

I built a set of the bearing modified cases on my mill, but you could do the same thing with only a piece of 120 grit sand paper and some elbow grease. AE will eventually come out with one with a steel bushing, but I don't know if you want to wait that long for a fix you can do yourself with $5 in bearings.

I'm pretty sure you'll have to. I was disapointed, I was so hoping you could use the inner slipper ring as a diff ring, but it's too deep.

Bring those part please the "next time" . Trcr has a scale and what to weight the baskets & post the weights ..


No Sc Saturday for you ?
I will be there , hope you can to.

More betta then rubbing , will let you try my ride ....

Make sure you bring the anchor of a hub too.

I hear if you run saddle packs, you can reduce weight by 120 or so grams if you just run on 1s and throw the other battery away.

How are everyone else's RPM arms holding up?
Sounds like we could use a graphite version. AE you listening!

Not sure what the basket weight has to do with anything. The dual slipper is run as one part all together. AE is just a little heaver, maybe less than one tooth on a pinion. It's not like these motors don't make too much power as it is. Rotational weight difference between the two will not be felt by anyone.

Where are you trying to go with this? Unless the Garodics that are being tested right now are lighter you still have to use all the parts required to make it work.

maybe you could use the MTK metal disc with the FT basket/pads and stock slipper plate, but don't know how much weight you would really save.

+1 Cam. I don't see the benefit of saving weight in an already overpowered rc either besides maybe some more battery efficiency for longer mains. Either way I would run whatever suits your fancy

I raced on a set for the first time last Saturday they perform way good if you ask me...