I will make sure there is some fuel for you at the 1 st round of the NorCal Series. I can't make it (gotta Do some t ball action with my son) but Cary is my right hand and getting it from him is the same. Also there are always guys willing to pit that hang out with us so we can work it out. The NorCal series always gets a big turnout.

Jimbo TQ’s Nitro buggy and Electric buggy at the Canadian Indoor Off road Shootout!

results for the mains

Nitro Buggy

Jimbo Kvidera 2nd and Fastest lap
Paul Ciccarello 3rd

Electric buggy

Jimbo 2nd

Truggy

Paul Ciccarello 2nd and fastest lap

Im working on setting up a Y connector for my 2s batteries that connect to the esc.

Im using Deans connectors and I "think" that the batteries connect via Neg to Pos. between the batteries themselves and then, the one Pos. and one Neg. on respective batteries connects to the esc.

Im going to use two Deans connectors that are hard wired to my esc, so this pic has the closest example, but I cant tell which sides of the batteries are Pos. and Neg.

thanks for any pics, diagrams or "clearly" written explanations before I connect my esc and test out my radio... I read the Tekin manual and it specifically states that if I fry the esc from connecting it backwards, then it voids the warranty..

I got the wiring to the motor figured out, that was easy, clearly outlined in the esc manual, but there is more than one way to wire this Serpent!

_

Are you using hard packs? If so don't use any deans at all. Just put banana plugs on the end, and plug them directly into the battery. Then make a banana plug connector to wire 2 in series..

Ok, so how does the "series" part work.. thats what I really want to know more about.

whether its Deans or banana's the actual connector isn't too big a deal, I just wanna make sure I have the right Pos to Neg connections setup both between the 2 batteries and then to the Esc itself.

I have 2 hard packs now, but they both already have Deans on them.

I order 2 more hard packs, that will take banana connectors. This will be the setup going forward and the other 2 packs that already have Deans, will become my nitro starter box batteries and replace the NiMh packs to get more punch

Your batteries should be marked. Here is how I connect mine. I put the center positive to speed control, and center negative to speed control. Then the two end ones i connect together.

1 2 3 4
*+ *- *+ *-

so if your batteries look like that, 3 and 4 go to esc, and 1 and 4 get connected together.

To use the existing packs with deans, just make or buy this adapter.

How the adapter is wired also gives you a guide on how to wire up the hard case batteries.

Yes! just what I was looking for.. making one of these tonight.

Hey guys...I am new to the forum and 1/8 racing. I just bought a new Cobra-Be / 811-Be. I plan on going back and reading through the pages, but for times sake, could you guys give me any inside info on things to do/don't do, or to look out for during the build and setup?

Also, good parts to have as spares/upgrades?

Thanks!

Also, I picked up the V2 aluminum spindles/hubs. Do I need to purchase anything else like driveshaft parts to make them work, or do they just bolt on to the stock kit (with the addition of the larger bearing of course)?

the Be (electric version) has ALL the updated parts.. no need to get the V2 parts, the kit already has them all..

as for the build itself... one big word of advise...

CLEAN EVERYTHING WITH MOTOR SPRAY .. or brake cleaner

there is an oil residue on ALL parts, so clean them first, them start normal assembly using threadlock when needed.

One big issue with 1/8 is that anything and everything comes loose, so if in doubt, LOCKTITE IT!

- use grease on screws going into plastic, makes easier to assemble.
- use threadlock on setscrews that go into plastic.
- dont over tighten the sway bar ball mounts on the a-arms, it causes binding when moving the suspension arms.
- follow the instructions EXACTLY... yes the drivetrain will be tight, it loosens up as it breaks in.
- get some springs and sway bars as extra tuning options.
- CA your drive axle boots on, fill them with grease first.
- DONT put your transponder UNDER the esc, put it on the steering servo, or the RX box.
- ENJOY!

Eliminate the deans connector, just solder direct to the bullet style connectors.
The connector will cause a little voltage loss and one more thing to go wrong. Those connectors do fail sometimes. I posted some pics to help you solder direct from esc to bullet connectors.

You also want the bullet connectors that have 1/2 the channel missing to make it easy soldering, and the wires to lay flat, but all 4mm bullet style will work. Make sure your wires are laid flat on the esc or the body will get in the way and you will need to resolver it.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nectors-4-Male

Here is some pics.

A little disappointment I ran across. I have bought all the anti-roll bar wires and wire holders and the system is nice except the 2.7 wires DO NOT fit in the holes. They are useless, a waste of money I'm tempted to send back to Serpent with my complaint.

I don' think the stock ones hold the 2.7 but there are optional wire holders that do fit. Maybe the stock ones can be drilled out a bit to fit. It wouldn't take much, is about .2mm.

Thanks Mrnizzles!

Any good upgrades to get? What about spare parts to have on hand?