RC10B4.1 FT/WC
04-12-2012 | 10:10 AM
jirish, you could try a 25 degree caster block in the front. You should get more mid corner steering with a 25 vs. a 30. If that feels better you might even try the 20 degree block. If this isn't the direction you want to go, you might look at how much drag brake you are running. High drag brake can give you quite a bit of entry steering when you might not want it. You also don't have many limiters in the rear shocks compared to the front. This will allow a lot of weight to transfer forward under braking, making the potentially heavy drag brake even more noticeable.
04-12-2012 | 10:22 AM
jrish- make your toe in on the front zero, -1 takes away steering, and remove a washer from the front ball stud, that will give more coming out and calm it down coming in. Im lucky to have a lot of help at my track. Glad to pass it on. If your rear is to locked in try some yellow rears.
04-12-2012 | 10:25 AM
my car for the most part, drives great. But I have a ton of low power/corner entry steering, but mid power/corner exit my car pushes more than i like. I thought i was over-driving it, but i even turned down the boost just out of curiosity, it still pushes hard. the only way my car wont go wide is if i go thru with minimal speed, which is killing my lap times. I'll just type out my setup on here
Front End:
Losi Reds
32.5wt
5 limiters inside shock
RPM 2 stage piston #2
Shocks mounted inner holes on tower and arms
Ballstuds inner holes, 2 washers
2 bumpsteer spacers
30* caster blocks
inline-axles
Camber -1* and Toe -1*
Ride height 23
camber link mounted middle of caster block
Rear End:
Losi Whites
27.5 wt
2 limiters inside shock
RPM 2 stage piston #3
Shocks mounted inner holes on tower and arms
Ballstuds inner holes 3 washers
Standard b44 rear hubs camber link mounted in the middle
Camber -1*
3* toe block
2* antisquat
ride height 22
Ride heights might be different, thats what I can remember offhand.
1/4oz rear triangles
3/4 oz servo tray
1/2 oz infront of toeblock(temporary till i get ballast weight)
Avid bell Crank
+8 Chassis
Finnisher/FTW body
It is still possible that i might be over driving the car, but i see other peoples b4.1s and they seem way more planted than mine. I havent had any of the top drivers use my car yet so I can't confirm if it is just me.
I typically use Barcode golds up front. I'm running the same tires as everyone else, so I am not too convinced its a tire issue.
I need to find a balance in the steering, I have a TON of low end steering, i'd like a little less, but pick up more on mid-high/corner exit. Bare with me, i've only been in this for a 6 months or so, and more or less, still know very little about these things. One of the fast locals told me to stiffen up the read end, so i threw on losi yellows, I did get some steering, but it was even more low end, and hardly more on exit. And the back end became washy too, so I went back to losi whites.
Quick thing on roll center, I understand the general gist of it, as far as the rear goes. Can someone elaborate roll-center to me with the front end, and playing around with more/less ballstud washers.
Thanks for the help guys
Front End:
Losi Reds
32.5wt
5 limiters inside shock
RPM 2 stage piston #2
Shocks mounted inner holes on tower and arms
Ballstuds inner holes, 2 washers
2 bumpsteer spacers
30* caster blocks
inline-axles
Camber -1* and Toe -1*
Ride height 23
camber link mounted middle of caster block
Rear End:
Losi Whites
27.5 wt
2 limiters inside shock
RPM 2 stage piston #3
Shocks mounted inner holes on tower and arms
Ballstuds inner holes 3 washers
Standard b44 rear hubs camber link mounted in the middle
Camber -1*
3* toe block
2* antisquat
ride height 22
Ride heights might be different, thats what I can remember offhand.
1/4oz rear triangles
3/4 oz servo tray
1/2 oz infront of toeblock(temporary till i get ballast weight)
Avid bell Crank
+8 Chassis
Finnisher/FTW body
It is still possible that i might be over driving the car, but i see other peoples b4.1s and they seem way more planted than mine. I havent had any of the top drivers use my car yet so I can't confirm if it is just me.
I typically use Barcode golds up front. I'm running the same tires as everyone else, so I am not too convinced its a tire issue.
I need to find a balance in the steering, I have a TON of low end steering, i'd like a little less, but pick up more on mid-high/corner exit. Bare with me, i've only been in this for a 6 months or so, and more or less, still know very little about these things. One of the fast locals told me to stiffen up the read end, so i threw on losi yellows, I did get some steering, but it was even more low end, and hardly more on exit. And the back end became washy too, so I went back to losi whites.
Quick thing on roll center, I understand the general gist of it, as far as the rear goes. Can someone elaborate roll-center to me with the front end, and playing around with more/less ballstud washers.
Thanks for the help guys
Try Orange front LOsi springs. It will reduce your steering a little.
Try Yellow rear springs. It will help with the push.. also maybe 30wt oil in the rear.
I have almost that same setup. I like the amount of steering with the Red springs.
I have 1 ball stud washer in the rear and a 2.5deg toe block.
My front arm shock mounts are outside. tower inside.
Rear arm mounts outer and tower are inner.
2 ball stud washer up front.
I run 24mm ride height
04-12-2012 | 10:29 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 298
From: Redmond, WA
Good morning fellas...got a question for everybody who"s running the avid steering rack. Did anybody destroy their servo?...I was coming off a very low jump with my wheels turned. Setting up for the turn and my servo went I'm running the savox low profile servo. I thought I read there was issues with the rack..
Is it a metal gear servo? Why aren't you running a full-size one?
As mentioned above, did you check your EPA after you swapped them? Mine needed some adjustment afterward.
04-12-2012 | 10:33 AM
Jirish,take out two limiters in the front,run 3 instead of 5.try yellow/red springs,depending on the surface I love the scrubs up front,I also have just a smudge of drag break also.I run on wett clay though,to much rear traction will make the front push to,also inside on tower and outside of arm also
04-12-2012 | 10:36 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Try Orange front LOsi springs. It will reduce your steering a little.
Try Yellow rear springs. It will help with the push.. also maybe 30wt oil in the rear.
I have almost that same setup. I like the amount of steering with the Red springs.
I have 1 ball stud washer in the rear and a 2.5deg toe block.
My front arm shock mounts are outside. tower inside.
Rear arm mounts outer and tower are inner.
2 ball stud washer up front.
I run 24mm ride height
Try Yellow rear springs. It will help with the push.. also maybe 30wt oil in the rear.
I have almost that same setup. I like the amount of steering with the Red springs.
I have 1 ball stud washer in the rear and a 2.5deg toe block.
My front arm shock mounts are outside. tower inside.
Rear arm mounts outer and tower are inner.
2 ball stud washer up front.
I run 24mm ride height
That was one thing I never did get to mess with
04-12-2012 | 10:41 AM
Most people around here run one or the other not both.
I have not retested them on the buggy
My buggy is getting dialed. I mostly use it for a test buggy for people thinking about getting one. I think I have helped sell around 5 buggies, LOL and now about 3 T4.1's
I am still fighting a Little push., I am not to worried about it. The track seems to be changing to much throughout the week to adjust it.
04-12-2012 | 10:44 AM
jirish617 also try some Scrubs up front with the arrow pointing forward.
Those helped me a bunch.
My driving style may be different than yours. I drive my Buggy like a Dirt bike. I hit a corner brake a little "V" it out almost pinned . lol
Those helped me a bunch.
My driving style may be different than yours. I drive my Buggy like a Dirt bike. I hit a corner brake a little "V" it out almost pinned . lol
04-12-2012 | 10:44 AM
jrish- make your toe in on the front zero, -1 takes away steering, and remove a washer from the front ball stud, that will give more coming out and calm it down coming in. Im lucky to have a lot of help at my track. Glad to pass it on. If your rear is to locked in try some yellow rears.
jirish, you could try a 25 degree caster block in the front. You should get more mid corner steering with a 25 vs. a 30. If that feels better you might even try the 20 degree block. If this isn't the direction you want to go, you might look at how much drag brake you are running. High drag brake can give you quite a bit of entry steering when you might not want it. You also don't have many limiters in the rear shocks compared to the front. This will allow a lot of weight to transfer forward under braking, making the potentially heavy drag brake even more noticeable.
I actually have very little drag brake dialed into the car. What do you recommend for limiters in a rear shock
Try Orange front LOsi springs. It will reduce your steering a little.
Try Yellow rear springs. It will help with the push.. also maybe 30wt oil in the rear.
I have almost that same setup. I like the amount of steering with the Red springs.
I have 1 ball stud washer in the rear and a 2.5deg toe block.
My front arm shock mounts are outside. tower inside.
Rear arm mounts outer and tower are inner.
2 ball stud washer up front.
I run 24mm ride height
Try Yellow rear springs. It will help with the push.. also maybe 30wt oil in the rear.
I have almost that same setup. I like the amount of steering with the Red springs.
I have 1 ball stud washer in the rear and a 2.5deg toe block.
My front arm shock mounts are outside. tower inside.
Rear arm mounts outer and tower are inner.
2 ball stud washer up front.
I run 24mm ride height
Jirish,take out two limiters in the front,run 3 instead of 5.try yellow/red springs,depending on the surface I love the scrubs up front,I also have just a smudge of drag break also.I run on wett clay though,to much rear traction will make the front push to,also inside on tower and outside of arm also
maybe? i didn't think about it being the inline-axles, ill try regular axles this weekend, unless someone else can confirm
04-12-2012 | 10:52 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,485
From: Texas..
The carbon front tower is not only durable, but also requires no spacing back of the shocks with big bore springs. It also gives a good direct feel, without sacrificing any steering. Also, Absolute hobbies is selling the TeamSR towers and other bits online now I believe!
04-12-2012 | 10:56 AM
okay thanks, ill try the toe first thing.
okay thanks, i've had 25* caster blocks for awhile, but have never put them on just because it seems many of you run the 30*
I actually have very little drag brake dialed into the car. What do you recommend for limiters in a rear shock
i use scrubs sometimes, it depends on our track condition at the time. What exactly would i see in change by switching to 3 limiters vs 5
maybe? i didn't think about it being the inline-axles, ill try regular axles this weekend, unless someone else can confirm
okay thanks, i've had 25* caster blocks for awhile, but have never put them on just because it seems many of you run the 30*
I actually have very little drag brake dialed into the car. What do you recommend for limiters in a rear shock
i use scrubs sometimes, it depends on our track condition at the time. What exactly would i see in change by switching to 3 limiters vs 5
maybe? i didn't think about it being the inline-axles, ill try regular axles this weekend, unless someone else can confirm
I can post my setup if you want and try some of the things.
04-12-2012 | 11:24 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
I just did a search in this thread for inline vs trailing because I know it was discussed before and Brent is the only one who says inline was less steering. Everyone else says exactly what I thought. Tons more initial steering while sacrificing exit (maybe that's what Brent is feeling??).
Either way, I would try the trailing before you do any other changes. Don't take my word for it either, click on "search this thread" and look for yourself :P
Either way, I would try the trailing before you do any other changes. Don't take my word for it either, click on "search this thread" and look for yourself :P
04-12-2012 | 11:58 AM
Did you remember to reset you end points on your radio after you put the rack on??? This is very critical. Now that The steering is direct it is crucial that you have no extra steering throw at all.
I turn my radio's steering EPA down to where the steering is locked out on the suspension (which is full throw) then dial it back one maybe two clicks.
I turn my radio's steering EPA down to where the steering is locked out on the suspension (which is full throw) then dial it back one maybe two clicks.