Thanks Cameron, I'll check them out.

greetings ppl...im sorry for this noob q..
im from malaysia..and the sc 10 is a new thing here we just picked up..
as for me..i just got a sc myself and so far ive ran about 30packs..untill recently...
i started hearing clickin noises from my sc...espeacially when i punch the throttle to the max...and its the worst when i accelerarte out of corners
ive tried everything...that i have read in ths forum..
locking down my clicker, gluin my clicker, checking and tighenin my belts,makin sure my spur and pinions are fine....the only thing i havnt check is my rear tranny..
its would be a hassale to tear this truck apart..so id like some advice...before i search deeper into the truck...
ive no clutch basket or pinned shaft...everything is stock...
thank you for the help...

This should help
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...eration-2.html
Make sure that the cvd and the a arm are not making contact with the rear outdrive.

As said above. Also check your rear idler gear and the shims in the rear diff have been known to cause issues.

Someone please design this so I can buy one:

Combination slipper AND clicker for front pulley. It will slip (adjustable) under braking, and lock up under power. (Or make use of a one way bearing instead of the clicker, same idea.)

The rear decoupled slipper design would stay as is (or upgrade pads/basket if needed for extra power). This retains the slip adjustability for forward drive.

The idea here is to have an adjustable clicker, instead of the on/off that it is now. Using the clicker makes it impossible to do heavy braking into sweepers (like the end of every straightaway of every indoor track i've been to). It also removes half of your ability to pitch the car down mid-jump.

With a slipper adjustment in there, you could now dial in some front brake. You could now balance how much turn-in you want with how much high speed braking stability you need.

The front slipper pads to be used should have a static coefficient of friction that is pretty close to the kinetic coefficient... so that braking slip is predictable.

Ok, now get to work, or else I'm buying a Losi and shitcanning this thing. I've checked all the stuff available, and none of it accomplishes this.

Your front slipper is already made.



The front pulley has a one way bearing in it and the slipper is used to control the front slip under braking. Not sure where he is with production with it though. It was supposed to be out a while back. Billy from fast laps does full size race trucks so he might just be busy with that now. Interesting idea.

Hot Racing makes a one way front pulley bearing. I have it and it seems to work fine.
http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?c=617

I used the 30k as well but not all of it, I added about a 1/4 5k to thin it up a bit.
I don't have the maths skills to work out what that has resulted in.
Lots of people seem to be running about 10k so I wanted to get nearer to that.

Where did the Coyote go ?


been a week or so ...

9 days to be exact....

It would be the equivalent of 23.75k close enough to say 24k .

Welcome to the club! This is always an issue for this truck on tracks like this. I ran 10K, 20K, 30K, 60K and it didn't change the off power loose issue, but what I did change that worked was to recouple the slipper. I have an early truck and had to make parts, but you can just buy this inner slipper plate and bolt it on because you have an FT chassis.

http://teamassociated.com/parts/details/91188/

Be warned, the truck will not rotate as well in the center of the corner with this change. If this is a problem, you can try lighter than 30K front fluid (slightly more steering into the corner) and/or over-driving the front (more steering off the corner).

According to The Guide: http://jq-products.com/the-news/43-t.../160-the-guide

Thicker front diff oil is supposed to increase on-power steering when using a center diff. I thought that I was getting more on power when I went lower, but I think I may have misunderstood what I was seeing as "better cornering" in general and I as actually getting more turn in.

What do you guys think? seems like on-power was getting lost more to rear weight transfer to me.

based on what I experienced, I found improved steering offpower by dropping the diff oil weight from 20K to 7K. I believe actual on-power steering for me at least felt similar. But this was on a very tight track with 180s, carpet (50x50).

Try 10k in ft & no over drive

dailed

more steering from thicker oil , all smoothed out by not using overdrive

use 7k in back with



Thicker in ft = more on-power steer , more pull on exit out of turn