I imagine there is quite a bit of heat that might be softening the plastic a little also. I would rather focus my attention on more important things than changing spur gears out.

I have trouble believing this statement. Noise = friction = lost energy Besides, the majority of the energy lost in 1/8th buggies is in the bevel gears and CVD's.

There's nothing wrong with running the steel spur. I'm not attacking, so quit defending. But thousands of people are running thousands of 1/8th scale buggies and truggies with plastic spurs so it is a viable choice. And don't tell me you won't DNF if your motor moves just because you have a steel spur.When the pinion is no longer meshed with a spur gear, you're done! Lots of people on this forum have asked about plastic(or composite) spur gears for this car and I provided that info. If you feel more secure with steel, that's fine.

+1

I prefer a plastic/composite spur because they are lighter and quieter. In the numerous years I have been running e-buggy I have never stripped a plastic spur gear. That's with an Associated, Losi, and Mugen.

I cringe when I hear a bad metal on metal pinion/spur gear mesh. I want my electric cars to sound stealthy and not like i'm making a frozen drink in the blender.

I also heard that Billy is going to make a plastic spur...

Noise doesn't = friction unless it's binding noise then you have other issues. The noise is from metal to metal contact. Plastic is quieter because the noise is damped by the plastic. Slide 2 metals together, then slide a plastic and metal together then tell me which has more friction.

BTW, I had no counting issues at all with the transponder under the speedo.

Using Losi pinions and Losi plastic spurs, the plastic has way less friction any day. Why? Because the plastic has oil in it, steel does not. Look at almost any machine that has sliding parts, like a snowmobile track. Steel does not slide on steel, it slides on plastic. Anything that is steel on steel needs a lubricant to be efficient. Not an easy thing to do on open gears.

If anyone is interested in running a cheaper speed control the Hobbywing 150A speed control does fit. It is a tight fit though. lol CRC has them for $115.

And I think Hobbypartz has the blue one for 99.

Thanks for all the great feedback....all very good points. I feel the same way about the metal to metal sound, just doesn't sound like a lean running machine....all said and done it comes down to keeping a close eye on your mesh....but if your mesh is correct and doesn't get knocked off alignment...a plastic spur can hold up just as good as a metal one....

I went with Robinson Racing instead of Teckno....they both seem like the cream of the crop....

Wow, Im gone for a couple days and all this chatter about spurs!!

I just picked up a Losi Mini 8 this weekend and almost cleared the wall of hop ups at the LHS LOL! The guy at the counter asked if there was anything else, I said "that will do it for now".. he just laughed.

its pretty fun little car. the little NiMH battery only lasted like 6 mins on its first charge.

I drove it in the street, while my rx7 was waming up... only got up to 150F water temp by the time the battery died. I got a 2s lipo to run in it next.

I did do a little dremel work on the Kyosho spur to check the fitting, but Im going with the metal one for break in and it's first few races.

In nitro, with 20-30 min main, a DNF is all too common, so Im not so paranoid about that... more of a learning experience. With 8 min mains at my track.. it seems it will be much easier to avoid that dnf issue.. also with alum clutches and clutch bells thats even moar "ding ding ringing"!

Ive been so damn meticulous about this build that I didnt even think the dremel of that spur gear was much, maybe a couple mins... I think I spent more time trying to be careful about not stripping any screws. A new 2.0 mm tip/driver and grease helps ALLOT!!

Anyway, I just LOVE the design of the front end. everything really.

The king pins on the C-hubs are so nice, solid, tight, smooth and how their secured in... way better than other kits that just have some button head screw into some plastic

Also, the diff case screws on the bottom, instead of behind the front plate like on other kits. This means less to remove when changing inserts for the plates.

Lots of suspension travel!! no binding at all,

I do wish it were possible to run booties on the front axles. I'll have to make sure to keep fresh grease packed in there for each race.

If the only thing to really "sort out" or "deal with" are plastic/metal spur, or servo placement.. I think that says allot about the overall quality and reliability of the kit itself

Has anyone actually broken anything? An arm, a shock shaft, a wing mount, anything steering related, a battery mount (lol) ?

Maybe just a graphite shock tower when the upper mount is using one of the outer 2/3 holes? I have the M2C brace on mine, and using the 2nd hole from most inner to mount the shock.

_

Just watch your set screw in the pinion. I had one work loose already. It sucks that it is hidden deep in the case so you can't do a quick check before a race. I am actually thinking about mapping out where on the case that set screw is and seeing if a hole can be drilled in the case then plug with a rubber stopper.

The only thing I have seen people have issues with is the servo horn stripping out. I think people set the saver too tight or the endpoint wrong and it strips. This car does not need any extra steering so I will run the servo saver on the loose side. But nothing broken for me either. (knock knock)

Same here, really sucks.... But lesson learned and now there is a stronger Loctite.

Ya, I asked a while back why they didn't pin the pinion to the coupler, it was said so you could shim the pinion out a little if needed. I may not have gotten all the oil out before loctiting it. I used some different blue from Mercury adhesives, will see if it holds now. I don't like using red on any screws that use a 2mm socket, but can if needed. Just have to heat things up to get it apart usually.

Sorry fellas, not quite sure what you're referring to... I understand the pinion on the elec motor, but whats the "case" part?

Is that the "can" of the motor itself or something else?

got any pics? I hear they can say up to 1,000 words!

I been using red locktite on allot of stuff... coming from nitro, I'm used to getting things off that had the red stuff applied, LOL!

Now I just to need to figure out what this pinion/case deal is... ugh..