We use the OFNA vented bells and they work excellent with the M2C kits.
10399 for the 13T cb, or 10400 if you find the need to go up 1 tooth on that badass motor

Thanks...I'll order one and try it out and see if there is much of a difference when comparing that clutch bell to the Kyosho brand.

BTW: I took several photos and was wondering if this is normal to have to use this many shims in order to take away the massive play the clutch bell had...I also notice that the Kyosho Bell is quite a bit larger than the M2C flywheel where the clutch shoes are held and this is also the lowest the Kyosho clutch bell will sit...maybe it is normal:

Put a shim behind the collette. That will also help move the flywheel away from the carb a bit. Also put some of those shims inside the bell on top of the clutch nut before the inside bell bearing.

I already have a thick shim behind the collet...I guess these pictures are not the best but the flywheel has a perfect amount of clearance from thr carb the pictures make it look like it is much closer...as far as putting a shim on the inside causes the clutch shoes to become exposed which is not good. Trust me I tried numerous shimming this is th e best I can do with this particular clutch bell..like I said I'll try ordering another clutch bell like the One suggested and see if it works out better.

Here is another photo (this is from an IPhone camera so they are not the best but just to show how the clearance from the carb is fine:

Yea that looks fine. Kyosho bells must be specific to their clutch set-up or other 3 shoe standard. Taller bell should solve your problem. I use VP pro bells with my M2C set-up and there's plenty of room and only need 2-3 shims for correct end play.

Yeah, looks good, I just can't tell what kind of play you have on the end.
My average setup consists of a .5-1mm shim behind the collet (werks seems to need 2mm shim to clear the carb), 1 thin shim on top of the nut (I feel the cb spins better with the shim), then the bearing-clutchbell-bearing, and anywhere from 1-3 shims or so depending on slop. I leave about a .5mm slop for expansion on the end.

The amount of play is just right. It is under 1mm not exactly sure will have to measure it...but it has the same amount of play as all my other engines which run perfectly.
Yes I need a different clutch bell for sure because if Input any shims under the bell the bottom of the clutch shoes are exposed.
So longer bell...I'll order the ones mentioned...and everything should be superb.

Thats what I do, play setup is very important as Jon mentioned if anyone has bearing issues or you find yourself replacing often during practice then your bearing is taking on too much pressure add a tad of play your bells should also spin for ever.

some bell require a lot of shimming so much that you need to add as you did cuase you cannot add any more before the collet. Im not sure how the engine mount works on a K car but some engine mount systems cuase spur and bell aligment issues with the M2C clutch system I always use M2C or Kingheadz engine mount system U can flip blocks to gain or remove space to get the perfect aligment.

:>(

My 2 cents:

I set up my Kyosho very close to the way Jon referred to. Another important parameter with the Kyosho (the clutch bell teeth are very narrow) is to center the Kyosho clutch bell teeth with the center diff teeth. I do this by shim adjustment on carb side.

I'm sorry but this makes no sense to me as what you are referring to. As far as mounting the engine to the chassis it is simple especially using the Mp9 engine mount. The MP9 engine mount makes it a breeze to adjust the angle and to be able to align to engine just right.
BTW are you using the same M2C6074 clutch kit on your Kyosho? I noticed that they make a kit specifically for the Kyosho MP9 series although I think the only main difference is the size of the flywheel being slightly smaller for the Kyosho...although I am having no issues with the bigger flywheel sticking out of the bottom so I'd say this kit is good to go.

Edit: Oh okay I think I know what you are saying...using shims behind the front. I guess I got lucky because this thing lines up right stab in the middle so it looks good.
I could probably get away with this clutch bell but will still order one of the others mentioned simply because I like the idea of having a slightly longer clutch bell to sit over the clutch shoes better...although these still just do cover them but the clutch shoes can be seen if I tilt the engine way to the side. I could just go ahead and order my Werks fuel (waiting to get paid in a few days) and try this setup out anyway. If it is slipping I think I would know even while breaking it in.
Thanks.

Here is a picture of how the clutchbell is lined up with the center diff...just bear in mind that I do not have the engine locked down just yet but I'd say this is a pretty decent fit...Inknow these pictures are not the best and why does this new IPhone 4S make everything look dirty??

Sorry for the confusion. I should of said spacers (washers) instead of shims. Ie: Put the proper amount of spacers between the front motor bearing and the M2C flywheel to make sure the gear lines up to diff. gear.

that looks bang on to me give it whirl!

I got a fever......a fever for more ROMA!