My diffs are 5/r and 10/f. I change my diffs after every race day so diffs have plenty of fluid. I am running blue f/r sway bars, Exotek chassis and stick packs.

Resqnu,
Now that I think of it, my buddy had that same issue when his wheel nuts were on too tight. It was so tight that it was melting the plastic on the hubs.

If that's not the issue you could try:
-3-3 rear tow block "thinking it might be squating too much on the high bite"
- stiffer sway bar on the rear.
- heavier rear diff. oil "since maybe it's diffing out"
- Lower your roll centre

A short term solution when this happens to you while your racing is to just be smoother on your throttle application at the start of the straight section. sometime it's all about damage control.

I am assuming no clutch basket of any sort or garodiscs? What really surprised to see how much a difference that made between my SC104x4 and another drivers RTR SC104x4. Pretty much had to pull his throttle like 1/3 of the way to get it to move.

One of the those items should really put some power down.

LOL. does the impossible ...

I have noticed that 2 of my hazards wheels are rounded out or melted where the 12mm hex goes. I'm running the FT aluminum hexes. I do tighten the wheel nuts down, as I thought the wheels coming loose causes the wheel damage.

Thanks for the info. I will try these. I was hoping this truck would drive like a 1/8 ebuggy......not!

Anyone know anywhere that has the exotech chasis in stock?

these ship direct from exotek:

http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/1162.htm

If you are a member its $5 cheaper

Ordered mine from here and got it in 4 days directly from exotek!
http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/1162.htm

These are the wheel nuts I use:
4mm Aluminum Flanged Serrated Nuts (Blue) (4) [TRA1747R]

The wheel nuts don't need to be on tight when you use these. I've had them for a full year now without any issues what so ever.

How do I get the $5 discount? Member of trick-parts. like just make an account?

Thanks

One of the first on this thread that got a Sc104x4 ...

Still racing and winning with......


No whine like a girl about not being able to win from me .


Its fast and with I can hand it to most if not all on this thread that says it can't compete....

yes. Basically there membership is $15 if I recall correctly. However, when you sign up, you get $15 worth of credit. So if you are planning to buy something anyway, the membership is *Free*. Get the membership first, then, login and it will show the lower price.

This is what mine does if the slipper is too tight, I run loose tracks tho.

Does the Exotek Chassis work with the new FT Saddle pack battery mounts? Do they line up or will you have to drill? Has anyone confirmed it? I just got my new FT kit and want to get the Exotek but I don't want to drill it.

thanks cain

If I understand your post correctly, you are running Jconcepts treaded tires in green compound.

If the track is good enough a lot of guys are running slicks, you're going to be in agony compared to them if you're running treaded tires. But that's the easy part, the compound is going to be ultra critical, as is the condition/selection of the insert. Depending on where you run, the inserts will wear out/break down before the tire gives up. The guys I know who run at WCRC and OCRC tell me that the tires are only good for three race days once they go to slicks because the inserts start to break down and then they are junk.

So, IMO, this isn't necessarily a chassis problem. It might be, but you gotta get the tires right first.


I ran 15 minutes straight at Autodromo Rancho Pollo with the 550 motor in it last Saturday after the race. The battery took 2500 mha when I recharged it. Run whatever you like!

IMO those are the best ones.