SC10 4x4 Thread
Looks good, I thought about putting my rx8 on that side but opted to put it on the other side to try and balance weight a little better....... Um is it me or does it look like your chassis brace has flexed some already in the center?
Thats just the flash on the camera. I ended up just putting it on the motor side because i didn't want to cut into the case to make it fit under the belt. I figured if needed i can add weight to the other side to make up for it.


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I broke another Body post mount today. That's #2. Also, brand new SC10 body (from my sc10 ft kit) split straight down the back of the body last week. Seems too perfect to be natural. I know it's a stocker but that really bites.
Edit: And my first original left side nerf bar just broke 50% off. /shrug
Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 03-27-2012 at 02:08 AM.
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 28
Wow.
I am new to the RC hobby, and bought this kit, without realizing it is a kit, and I need to build the blasted thing.
So, thanks for this thread, and the links to youtube. I am learning to hate the manual. It is taking many things for granted, that a newb like me won't know.
I will get this done, somehow. Right now I am stalled because I noticed that the steering servo said on the package Ni-Cad only... so now I need to head back to my local shop and see what the deal is, and see about some diff fluid.... But that will probably depend on the answer to why they sold me the servo, when I purchased different batteries with the same purchase.
I am sure I will be back to ask questions, assuming I can't find it in this 1,000 page thread somewhere....
I am new to the RC hobby, and bought this kit, without realizing it is a kit, and I need to build the blasted thing.
So, thanks for this thread, and the links to youtube. I am learning to hate the manual. It is taking many things for granted, that a newb like me won't know.
I will get this done, somehow. Right now I am stalled because I noticed that the steering servo said on the package Ni-Cad only... so now I need to head back to my local shop and see what the deal is, and see about some diff fluid.... But that will probably depend on the answer to why they sold me the servo, when I purchased different batteries with the same purchase.
I am sure I will be back to ask questions, assuming I can't find it in this 1,000 page thread somewhere....
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 292
From: Hawkes Bay. New Zealand
[QUOTE=sugs;10514921]CF rod keeps the flex in check no problem, I noticed no extra flex at all after the mod(just taking out the central divider and dremeling the rear upper brace until the battery fits).
Thanks for the info, I have cut up the rear of my track, I'm making a 3mm plate that fits inside the chassis, holds the saddle pack and runs under the ESC, the front section will be heavier than the rear, it will also come up and pick up the rear gearbox mounts with a brace thru to the front, hard to explain but will take picks when done, looking to weigh the same as the exotec chassis, I'm also keen to hear about how the new FT slipper goes, I did have one idea I may try, I thought you could pin the front with the pin mod, and decouple the rear drive, that way it should drive the front harder than the rear, any thoughts? I did remove the pin for my last meet, HD pad inside and stock outside, if was pretty good and beat most Losi's on our slick track, also scored a 5.5 tekin 550 to try, have the CC 3800 in there at the mo but want to try the 550, I have removed the stupid rear top mount and will now fit a stock heat sink and fan to the motor, should be much better than the stock setup, when you remove these parts you see how weak it all is really.
Thanks for the info, I have cut up the rear of my track, I'm making a 3mm plate that fits inside the chassis, holds the saddle pack and runs under the ESC, the front section will be heavier than the rear, it will also come up and pick up the rear gearbox mounts with a brace thru to the front, hard to explain but will take picks when done, looking to weigh the same as the exotec chassis, I'm also keen to hear about how the new FT slipper goes, I did have one idea I may try, I thought you could pin the front with the pin mod, and decouple the rear drive, that way it should drive the front harder than the rear, any thoughts? I did remove the pin for my last meet, HD pad inside and stock outside, if was pretty good and beat most Losi's on our slick track, also scored a 5.5 tekin 550 to try, have the CC 3800 in there at the mo but want to try the 550, I have removed the stupid rear top mount and will now fit a stock heat sink and fan to the motor, should be much better than the stock setup, when you remove these parts you see how weak it all is really.
Wow.
I am new to the RC hobby, and bought this kit, without realizing it is a kit, and I need to build the blasted thing.
So, thanks for this thread, and the links to youtube. I am learning to hate the manual. It is taking many things for granted, that a newb like me won't know.
I will get this done, somehow. Right now I am stalled because I noticed that the steering servo said on the package Ni-Cad only... so now I need to head back to my local shop and see what the deal is, and see about some diff fluid.... But that will probably depend on the answer to why they sold me the servo, when I purchased different batteries with the same purchase.
I am sure I will be back to ask questions, assuming I can't find it in this 1,000 page thread somewhere....
I am new to the RC hobby, and bought this kit, without realizing it is a kit, and I need to build the blasted thing.
So, thanks for this thread, and the links to youtube. I am learning to hate the manual. It is taking many things for granted, that a newb like me won't know.
I will get this done, somehow. Right now I am stalled because I noticed that the steering servo said on the package Ni-Cad only... so now I need to head back to my local shop and see what the deal is, and see about some diff fluid.... But that will probably depend on the answer to why they sold me the servo, when I purchased different batteries with the same purchase.
I am sure I will be back to ask questions, assuming I can't find it in this 1,000 page thread somewhere....
The things I would suggest you pickup right away if its the standard kit is:
- Garodiscs or a clutch basket
- Swaybar kit front and rear
- Front spring kit (put either white or blue front spring on the rear)
- Chassis brace
I also got the 12mm ball studs to give me more options for putting shims under the studs.
Can someone help out?
Building the ft and went to roll the belt onto the front pulley. I tightened the clicker to the locked full time fwd possition. Cant turn the pully, its locked. Is this normal? The diff turns free...
thanks
Building the ft and went to roll the belt onto the front pulley. I tightened the clicker to the locked full time fwd possition. Cant turn the pully, its locked. Is this normal? The diff turns free...
thanks
So I recently picked up a SC10 4X4 roller and am going to use it to mess around the house and maybe take it to the track every once and a while. I happen to have a Novak Super Sport brushless sytem with a SS4300 brushless motor laying around and want to use it. Will that brushless system work ok to just mess around with it? I am wanting to get a 550 motor to put in it but want to use it til then. Let me know what you think. Thanks



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