5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
03-26-2012 | 05:41 AM
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thanks!
03-26-2012 | 06:24 AM
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From: Evansville, IN
I have been slowly building my new FT kit and thought I would point out a few things. These may have already been covered but I am not reading through 20000 posts. Screws are very tight going in when assembling(to the point I was worried about snapping heads off)and I recommend using a soap or other lubricant for threads. Steering post that retains bellcrank and servo saver needs to be checked frequently when tightening screw through chassis brace pivot for torquing of plastic that in turn binds up steering. Also found very small brass chips in diff housings that need to be thoroughly cleaned and blown out with compressed air. I went ahead and washed all metal diff parts in denatured alcohol to verify clean and assembled diffs dry to check for proper shimming of side and planet gears. I found plastic fingers on diff housing cap to be too long causing planet gears to be forced into side gear in diff cup when case tightened and causing notchy feeling and binding in diff. These fingers need some material removed for proper operation and no binding in diffs. Question, what side of the case have people seen failing under normal use, the deep cup side? This is as far as I have gotten but I will be updating as I continue build.
03-26-2012 | 07:08 AM
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From: Littleton
03-26-2012 | 07:15 AM
I have been slowly building my new FT kit and thought I would point out a few things. These may have already been covered but I am not reading through 20000 posts. Screws are very tight going in when assembling(to the point I was worried about snapping heads off)and I recommend using a soap or other lubricant for threads. Steering post that retains bellcrank and servo saver needs to be checked frequently when tightening screw through chassis brace pivot for torquing of plastic that in turn binds up steering. Also found very small brass chips in diff housings that need to be thoroughly cleaned and blown out with compressed air. I went ahead and washed all metal diff parts in denatured alcohol to verify clean and assembled diffs dry to check for proper shimming of side and planet gears. I found plastic fingers on diff housing cap to be too long causing planet gears to be forced into side gear in diff cup when case tightened and causing notchy feeling and binding in diff. These fingers need some material removed for proper operation and no binding in diffs. Question, what side of the case have people seen failing under normal use, the deep cup side? This is as far as I have gotten but I will be updating as I continue build.
03-26-2012 | 07:40 AM
One thing that really made a difference for me was going with the B4.3s on the rear, Yellows up front, and raising the ballstuds with 5mm - 7mm spacers.
I actually think 5mm up front under the ballstud may even be a bit more agressive.
really liking the diffs at 7K - 5K too. I would say for you, 10K - 5K may be more easy to drive.
03-26-2012 | 07:41 AM
what conditions?
One thing that really made a difference for me was going with the B4.3s on the rear, Yellows up front, and raising the ballstuds with 5mm - 7mm spacers.
I actually think 5mm up front under the ballstud may even be a bit more agressive.
really liking the diffs at 7K - 5K too. I would say for you, 10K - 5K may be more easy to drive.
One thing that really made a difference for me was going with the B4.3s on the rear, Yellows up front, and raising the ballstuds with 5mm - 7mm spacers.
I actually think 5mm up front under the ballstud may even be a bit more agressive.
really liking the diffs at 7K - 5K too. I would say for you, 10K - 5K may be more easy to drive.
Well this weekend is the last indoor race so I guess a 160 x 60 outdoor track. Haven't been to it yet.
Right now I run 3k/3k on a tight indoor track.
03-26-2012 | 07:47 AM
what kind of surface conditions do you see on the track?
I am running carpet over jumps right now, so it probably going to be a bit different than what you may need. track size for me is about 50 x 50.
I basically use the Spektrum race setup as a starting point. track small enough that I dropped down to an 11 tooth pinion with the 5.5 550 Tekin motor I am running and that really made a difference in temps. Felt like the sweet spot for the truck.
There was another SC104x4 there too, another driver had the RTR version. Definitely doesn't have the punch like mine does. his stock setup didn't feel too bad though, but does have A LOT of roll in the turns with some traction rolling issues. Could push my setup much harder like the losi drivers could.
I am running carpet over jumps right now, so it probably going to be a bit different than what you may need. track size for me is about 50 x 50.
I basically use the Spektrum race setup as a starting point. track small enough that I dropped down to an 11 tooth pinion with the 5.5 550 Tekin motor I am running and that really made a difference in temps. Felt like the sweet spot for the truck.
There was another SC104x4 there too, another driver had the RTR version. Definitely doesn't have the punch like mine does. his stock setup didn't feel too bad though, but does have A LOT of roll in the turns with some traction rolling issues. Could push my setup much harder like the losi drivers could.
03-26-2012 | 08:37 AM