hey guys, i have been running this truck since it was released, the kit version that is. the only mod I have is the center brace, made from carbon tube and threaded rod. it seems to be good, no splitting or anything. I still run the battery layout as stock. I am not racing it yet. pesky job is getting in the way. I am running the castle 3800 4 pole with the sidewinder esc. i mounted the fan on the esc and use the 48p spur. i recently put a 22t pinion in and did some wot runs to get to temps and still am in the 140 deg range. the esc is cool to the touch. I notice that there is a lot of front end lift with wot. I have 30k in the front diff and 10k in the rear. i have the white springs in the rear and stockers up front. how can i tame the front end lift a little? i am losing some of the front traction as the front wheels are nearly off the ground.

I get very little of the slipper fade that people with the 550 cans are getting. I checked it yesterday the pads are a little glazed. i scuffed them up and ordered new ones.

thanks in advance.
ben

On Live RC
My feed was horrible. I could not watch any of the races. I basically got audio with a still frame.

Cav was on the money for 2wd and 4wd buggy.

My receiver took a dump last night.

No! Don't buy them.

I would think of extending your wheel base in the rear. This would help put more weight over the front wheels at all times.

[QUOTE=bschanz;10509703]hey guys, i have been running this truck since it was released, the kit version that is. the only mod I have is the center brace, made from carbon tube and threaded rod. it seems to be good, no splitting or anything.

Is there a sorce for the carbon tube and what is the part number for the rod ends? I am sure that if I looked around my spare parts box I could find a sutible subsitute, maybe I am just being lazy. I would rather build a reliable previously tried center brace. Thanks for any infor you can offer

after doing some research I found a pdf file on google.com for this exact issue. I could post the pdf here, if I knew how

bump up your shock oil in the rear. You shouldn't have that much weight transfer. You can also raise the ride height too.

It's a weight transfer issue. Solve it through spring, oil and/or droop settings. If I remember correctly (without pulling out the wonderful Xray tuning guide), a tad less droop in the front should limit weight transfer to the rear wheels, giving you more front bite (and if I'm correct help keep your wheels planted). If it's the other way around...well, I'm human and don't work in a hobby shop...

LMAO

has anyone picked up one of the new FT kits yet? just curious on how the build is going and if there is any new tips/tricks they put in the manual..

What? I'm enjoying my muscle relaxers...

i need a new car a 22t or a new ft kit or just the slipper and brace. i like the ft kit a lot .

I just got a bunch of the facotory team sc10 4by4's in stock. I'm so excited to build one. I'll post pictures once it's done

I just built up a factory team and there isnt anything much differant about the car except for th much better shocks, chassis brace, and the battery placement. The only problems I had were the o-rings wouldnt sit into the plastic diff halfs and they forgot to include the blue metal pivot balls that go into the sway bar links. Other than that it was a fun build and cant wait to get it on the track!

you think you just got bad luck on the pivot balls? and for the o-rings did you fix the problem?

AE is shipping the pivot balls to customer's. Some of the earliest kits did not have them included. I received my pivot balls like Tuesday,, kit won't arrive till Monday.