How much weight is that?

i also run a very similar setup to cavs crcrc setup.

i added 7g (1/4 oz) in each front "triangle" and i run TLR 12mm Green in the front and Pink in the rear
also running 2.5-deg toe block w/ .5 deg hubs.

10g on each side of the servo, and 5g on the bulkhead. My battery is in the middle.

Im not running weight in the triangles though. Im using different rear camber rod lengths, and a stiffer front spring.

I've demolished 2 spur gears on my RTR. Any ideas why?

Using Castle Sidewinder combo ESC with the 5700kv (With 2s Lipo). The stock pinion ate up the 87 tooth spur gear. Switched to 84 teeth and ate it up too. I've tried the 19 tooth pinion and the 17 tooth pinion.

Any suggestions on what pinion/spur gear to use?

Every 2 runs the spur gear gets crushed/flattened/ chipped / destroyed...

You are using a spur gear cover, correct? That's a pretty stout motor but the spur/pinion should easily be able to handle it. Mesh should be set with just a titch of play between the pinion and spur. Not too much, to little.

Sounds more like a gear mesh issue than anything else.

Check the mesh, have someone else check the mesh, then check it again after a few good laps.

Just to add to this, once the mesh is correct, use a little blue thread lock on the screws.

Thank you

hey guys why don't u post some wiring setups? need ideas and something to look at

same as b4? lol



mine before i mounted my mrt ptx ontop of the servo.

very nice, i will put some yellow and blue bb springs on. What is with the blue servo assembly? I will just glue mine for now, gold turnbuckles also

ganna throw some trick parts screws on then some red washers to go with, proline bulldog

so excited. I wanna drive a st so bad. It will look nice next to my world kit

there isnt blue bb for the 22t tho and the 22 spring is too short. which i would love to see a 22t blue front because i think its what the truck needs...

with the pink/green im going to try inside with more limiters on the front this weekend tho.

the servo assembly is the gpm aluminum rack, i got it before the avid was released.

Not to rain on your parade, but be very carefull with screw kits. The Stainless and especially the aluminum are very soft and tend to get stripped out easily. If your using "cheap" (not just inexpensive) tools, this will compound the tendency.

The weight loss (neglegiable in this application) is not worth it to me.
Overall, the only gain being the looks, (though I do like the silver),again it is not worth the hassle to me.

hello ..just recently got a t4.1 to joinmy race fleet..i have noticed this on my other vehichles but it seems as if its magnafied on the t4.1 with the longer a- arms..when steering the car fully to left or right..wich ever wheel/a arm would be the inside wheel of the turn,,the turn buckle is in a straight position .the bell crank on the inside wheel is going away from the wheel and at the end of the steering stroke but before any linkage or servo binds,,it creates a slack or play in that wheel/steering linkage.the outside wheel is still nice and slack free.As i am coming on the the straight away there is a sorta sweeper turn..i can see the inside tire woblling just slightly..it dosent seem to make the car mishandle but i was just curious as to if that is something that a shim in some magic place could eliminate..i fear that what ever shiming may take the slop out it may rob me of a lil steering..and i love steering. Any ideas? anyone know what im talkin about? ahahthnks in adavance

Sounds like you need to dial back some in the steering throw (EPA on the radio)...
As in your going past it's intended full turning throw.

Set your car on the ground or work surface and stand above it.
Turn your wheel all the way to the left, then dial back the epa until it moves just slightly. Do the same for the right side... You can fine tune this both ways etc etc..

By doing this you should not have a loss of steering, and you will also save your servo in the process.