SC10 4x4 Thread
On the very low traction surface I ran yellow up front with yellow out back and truck felt loose in the rear, when I put the blue's on it was nailed.
Now I do have the 2 way pistons too so that makes a difference.
I'll be at a medium traction surface this weekend with bigger jumps so we'll see if the blues can hold up.
Now I do have the 2 way pistons too so that makes a difference.
I'll be at a medium traction surface this weekend with bigger jumps so we'll see if the blues can hold up.
On the very low traction surface I ran yellow up front with yellow out back and truck felt loose in the rear, when I put the blue's on it was nailed.
Now I do have the 2 way pistons too so that makes a difference.
I'll be at a medium traction surface this weekend with bigger jumps so we'll see if the blues can hold up.
Now I do have the 2 way pistons too so that makes a difference.
I'll be at a medium traction surface this weekend with bigger jumps so we'll see if the blues can hold up.
I would like to see Marcus go back and attempt the triple with the extra rear spring and let us know how it went.
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: SoCal
Lots of things are contributing to your traction roll issues, when changing to the center dif there are some setting that need to be adjusted. not sure if you have 2 stage pistons are not but, going to a short link in the rear with 1mm spacer helped my truck with this issue ALOT. also play with the 3-3 block. You can get away with light dif fluids, I typically run 7/3. Also adding weight to the outside of the chassis can also contribute to slower transitioning and in some cases worse traction rolling (off camber turns, turns with tabletops in them). Its good practice to keep your added weight as close to the centerline as possible, you will still get the same effects for settling the truck down but will not effect transitioning.
I wasn't complaining about the traction rolling with center diff. Just stating that I had to change my setup. Now that I have, truck is best it has ever run thanks to your center diff and tuning accordingly. I will try the short rear camber link but really like the way the truck is handling now with long camber link and 1mm shim under rear ball stud. Rear end is hooked up and I can power slide the truck predictably into and around turns if I need to drive it that way. Feels pretty balanced. I do need to test with lighter front diff fluid. Has a slight push in tight turns that i know I can tune out.
I believe a few pages back (like in the 900-1000 range) there was a dicussion about this. I believe that the conclusion was that the chassis brace was un-necessary with the exotek chassis. Dont quote me on this, just trying to recall this from the best of my memory.
I believe a few pages back (like in the 900-1000 range) there was a dicussion about this. I believe that the conclusion was that the chassis brace was un-necessary with the exotek chassis. Dont quote me on this, just trying to recall this from the best of my memory.
There is a little flex, but it almost eliminates it. I wouldn't worry.
I got the Exotek coming and the brace....I guess I will put it on my sons SC10 4x4.
I am in the market for a new Motor/ESC. I had the castle 4 pole 3800 with the SCT sidewinder. The ESC was always hot. What do you suggest is best for racing??
I am in the market for a new Motor/ESC. I had the castle 4 pole 3800 with the SCT sidewinder. The ESC was always hot. What do you suggest is best for racing??
i had a real bad experience today at the track with my sons sc10 4x4...
i decided to upgrade his rtr to a lrp tc spec esc & x-12L 550 5.5 turn combo ($260 from amain). an associated guy on the phone told me to run a 13T pinion with the stock rtr spur gear so thats what i got.
anyway it seemed like it was running great for about 20 minutes until we realized the power cutting a bit from a dead stop. after we pulled it in i could tell the motor was smoking hot! check the temp and it was 270 degrees!!!!
i checked if my pinion was to tight on my spur gear and it wasn't. i waited for it to cool down and put a 14t pinion on . it stuttered on starts again and i had my son run it around our very small indoor track 2 laps brought it back in and the temp was already up to 220 degrees.
speed controlled never got hot.
i'll call associated tomorrow to see if they can help me out to as why this is happening. does anyone know what the problem might be? this is definitely not what you want to happen after you install a $260 part in your rc...
i decided to upgrade his rtr to a lrp tc spec esc & x-12L 550 5.5 turn combo ($260 from amain). an associated guy on the phone told me to run a 13T pinion with the stock rtr spur gear so thats what i got.
anyway it seemed like it was running great for about 20 minutes until we realized the power cutting a bit from a dead stop. after we pulled it in i could tell the motor was smoking hot! check the temp and it was 270 degrees!!!!
i checked if my pinion was to tight on my spur gear and it wasn't. i waited for it to cool down and put a 14t pinion on . it stuttered on starts again and i had my son run it around our very small indoor track 2 laps brought it back in and the temp was already up to 220 degrees.
speed controlled never got hot.
i'll call associated tomorrow to see if they can help me out to as why this is happening. does anyone know what the problem might be? this is definitely not what you want to happen after you install a $260 part in your rc...
Tech Regular
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 273
From: Littleton
i had a real bad experience today at the track with my sons sc10 4x4...
i decided to upgrade his rtr to a lrp tc spec esc & x-12L 550 5.5 turn combo ($260 from amain). an associated guy on the phone told me to run a 13T pinion with the stock rtr spur gear so thats what i got.
anyway it seemed like it was running great for about 20 minutes until we realized the power cutting a bit from a dead stop. after we pulled it in i could tell the motor was smoking hot! check the temp and it was 270 degrees!!!!
i checked if my pinion was to tight on my spur gear and it wasn't. i waited for it to cool down and put a 14t pinion on . it stuttered on starts again and i had my son run it around our very small indoor track 2 laps brought it back in and the temp was already up to 220 degrees.
speed controlled never got hot.
i'll call associated tomorrow to see if they can help me out to as why this is happening. does anyone know what the problem might be? this is definitely not what you want to happen after you install a $260 part in your rc...
i decided to upgrade his rtr to a lrp tc spec esc & x-12L 550 5.5 turn combo ($260 from amain). an associated guy on the phone told me to run a 13T pinion with the stock rtr spur gear so thats what i got.
anyway it seemed like it was running great for about 20 minutes until we realized the power cutting a bit from a dead stop. after we pulled it in i could tell the motor was smoking hot! check the temp and it was 270 degrees!!!!
i checked if my pinion was to tight on my spur gear and it wasn't. i waited for it to cool down and put a 14t pinion on . it stuttered on starts again and i had my son run it around our very small indoor track 2 laps brought it back in and the temp was already up to 220 degrees.
speed controlled never got hot.
i'll call associated tomorrow to see if they can help me out to as why this is happening. does anyone know what the problem might be? this is definitely not what you want to happen after you install a $260 part in your rc...
i run novak havoc pro sc in mine. i have exotek with saddles, and i am able to put it beneath the belt tunnel on the right side with no modification with the fan installed. i run it with a 550 ballistic 4.5. which has plenty of speed. my esc never runs too hot, and my motor temps are cool. (125 average) i was doubtful of the esc's ability to run the 4x4 with the 550, but it works great for me.
if you decide to go novak, i highly recommend the Havoc Pro SC, emphasis on the SC, over the havoc pro 3s, or the GTB2. the 3s and GTB2 do not have all of the features that are useful for racing. timing is almost unnecessary IMHO with the 550's on small tracks, but i have dialed some in for bigger outdoor tracks for more top end. The drive frequency is also a great tuning option for throttle feel. as far as i know the tekin rx8 offers all of the same programming options, just with more tweakability through the hotwire pc interface.
Even the Novaks are on backorder right now, i don't know what the deal is with the ESC manufacturers.



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