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Old 03-01-2012 | 03:00 PM
  #18496  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
Mantis, Do you have a post with your setup? I'd be interested to see it.
It's on the first page of the thread
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Old 03-01-2012 | 03:01 PM
  #18497  
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Thanks! Is that still accurate?
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Old 03-01-2012 | 04:11 PM
  #18498  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
The 3-3 block doesnt change toe, only antisquat 3-2 is 2* of anti squat,3-3 is 3* of anti squat. 3* of toe on both.

lol, thanks for curing my ignorance. I was thinking the numbers were the widths at each end of the pins or something.

Do they make 2-2 or 2-3 blocks to adjust the rear toe, or is that one of those settings that are better left alone?
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Old 03-01-2012 | 04:40 PM
  #18499  
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you can ad rear toe by getting rear hubs with extra toe in
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Old 03-01-2012 | 04:55 PM
  #18500  
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Originally Posted by CEW
I know binding and gear boxes have been discussed many times on here. For example, tightening the screws down too tight. I'm not sure if this particular issue has been discussed. I find, with the gear box apart, the differential gear and idler gear bind up just slightly in certain spots. Specifically, at the top of the idler there is a overhang/lip. The teeth on the differential are sometimes hitting the lip and it binds up ever so slightly. Has anyone had this issue. If the idler sat up just a little further it would solve the issue, but I'm wondering if something is just worn out or maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Kind of hard to tell from the pic, but looks like your idler gear is upside down. There is a flange on one side of the diff and idler. If I remember right off the top of my head, the flange side on the dif goes to the shaft side, then the idler goes on flange up to keep all the tranny gears in place
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Old 03-01-2012 | 05:29 PM
  #18501  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Kind of hard to tell from the pic, but looks like your idler gear is upside down. There is a flange on one side of the diff and idler. If I remember right off the top of my head, the flange side on the dif goes to the shaft side, then the idler goes on flange up to keep all the tranny gears in place
You are correct.
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Old 03-01-2012 | 05:34 PM
  #18502  
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Sorry this question is a little misplaced, but I respect the opinions of the guys on this thread, but when you have a lot of dampening will that cause the shock to act stiffer or just slow the movement?

So, if I have heavy dampening, and the wheel is forced up via a bump for instance, will that cause the body to move more in response to the bump since the force can't be absorbed as quickly, or would the body stay still by soaking up the upward force more slowly?

Seems to me like the former would happen since the vertical motion of the bump has to go somewhere so either the spring would compress or the body would change in relative position.

Now for motion-induced force on the shocks, it seems like more dampening would have the desired effect of causing the body to roll slower.

I think by typing this out I figured out that low damping means more stability on bumpy stuff, while high dampening means more stability on smooth turns?
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Old 03-01-2012 | 05:35 PM
  #18503  
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Originally Posted by SCTDan
Couple of changes to my truck.


the front skid plate is steel and weighs 4.5 oz. Allowed me to take the lead out from in front of the battery and gain a little more front weight bias. The extensions on the rear hubs raise the link 6mm. May have to shim the inner ball stud a little. I'll see after running it
Ran 3 packs before work today. Moving the weight forward and to the bottom of the chassis improved on power steering and jumping (5k diff fluid fr and rear) Didn't like the hub extensions. Tried raising the inside ball stud but ended up back with no extension inner most position for both ball studs. The rear end just didn't seem planted. Changed the rear shock oil to 25wt. It seems to worker even better with the heaver springs. Can't race until the 18th lots more practice with NO cheese until then. Maybe the diff upgrade will be available before then???????
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Old 03-01-2012 | 05:42 PM
  #18504  
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What type of steel did you use for that plate? Got any more pics?
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Old 03-01-2012 | 05:50 PM
  #18505  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
What type of steel did you use for that plate? Got any more pics?
It's just some 2" x 1/8" mild steel scrap. I might secure it with a couple more screws but it held up just fine after 45 minutes of abuse today. The photo doesn't really show it but the front edge is beveled pretty good and doesn't dig dirt on nose landings.
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Old 03-01-2012 | 05:50 PM
  #18506  
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Originally Posted by T3tsaya
Quick question and hopefully not the first to ask but i ran my truck this weekend with the box setup with bowties all around but was running close to one of ryan mayfields setups for a medium traction dry track and tried a few things but could NOT STOP getting the rear end of this truck to stop comeing around OFF power like off the straight away i tried a few small tings but it kept spinning out off power which made me baby the truck and lost alot of time due to this. Anyone out there had this simalar problem or is it just the tires i was running i couldnt switch my tires to check if it was them because i only had one set at the time. Plkease help me and thanks for reading this far as i know my Punctuation spelling and run on sentences are horrid.
any help on my earlier post. I did buy aka city blocks but have yet to test them but anything else would help
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Old 03-01-2012 | 05:53 PM
  #18507  
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Mantis, How's the idler gear testing coming?
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Old 03-01-2012 | 05:57 PM
  #18508  
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Another noob questions:
Thicker Front diff does ?
Thinner?
Rear?
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Old 03-01-2012 | 07:07 PM
  #18509  
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Originally Posted by SCTDan
It's just some 2" x 1/8" mild steel scrap. I might secure it with a couple more screws but it held up just fine after 45 minutes of abuse today. The photo doesn't really show it but the front edge is beveled pretty good and doesn't dig dirt on nose landings.
Would that be ROAR legal?

Height: Minimum Overall Height is measured with vehicle at Static Stance in ready to race condition. Race vehicles must have front and rear bumpers. Must be made from non Metal material and not contain sharp edges. Front bumper must be minimum 171.45mm (6.750 inch) in width. Front Bumper can be no wider than the inner sidewall of the front tire when straight.

Does that part count as the "Bumper" or just the skid plate?
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Old 03-01-2012 | 07:12 PM
  #18510  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Does that part count as the "Bumper" or just the skid plate?
Considering how many chassis are solid metal, I doubt it would have a problem passing tech.
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