SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 203
From: Virginia
I posted awhile ago about a clicking noise i was having under heavy throttle. I took the rear diff out and replaced the diff oil that was leaking out and put everything back together. The noise went away for a week or so and returned today at the track. It will click under hard throttle and while turning towards the driver side but not while turning toward the passenger side. What do you guys think. Just seems weird that it went away then came back. btw I am running the factory battery tray and stock slipper, but have the brace and mantis center diff coming soon.
Thanks
Jody
Thanks
Jody
I had the same problem,I would change oil and it would go away then I shimed it like everyone else did and went away for a while. Well it came back so sence my outdrives were really loose I order new diffs front and rear and new gears too. In my case my sun gear where warn out and rounded off compared to the new ones. Sence I replaced both diffs with all new parts no clicking noise under hard acceleration. Hope this helps
Last edited by special_k; 02-28-2012 at 02:12 PM.
I had the same problem,I would change oil and it woul0d go away then I shimed it like everyone else did and went away for a while. Well it came back so sence my outdrives were really loose I order new diffs front and rear and new gears too. In my case my sun gear where warn out and rounded off compared to the new ones. Sence I replaced both diffs with all new parts no clicking noise under hard acceleration. Hope this helps
Does anybody know or think the current Team Associated Underbody (ASC91168) for SC10 4x4 would fit on the coming soon Factory Team SC10 4X4??
The Chassis Brace seems to be in the way and the 2 "Clip holders" are gone. Looking at the Factory Team SC10 4X4 pictures and manual diagrams where these 2 "clip holders" used to be are replaced with screws to secure the carbon brace. Even if we can use Velcro to stick the underbody on the car, I think the chassis brace would still be in the way??
Because I already have this Underbody....I want to use it on the Factory Team kit.
Thanks.
Robert
The Chassis Brace seems to be in the way and the 2 "Clip holders" are gone. Looking at the Factory Team SC10 4X4 pictures and manual diagrams where these 2 "clip holders" used to be are replaced with screws to secure the carbon brace. Even if we can use Velcro to stick the underbody on the car, I think the chassis brace would still be in the way??
Because I already have this Underbody....I want to use it on the Factory Team kit.
Thanks.
Robert
Does anybody know or think the current Team Associated Underbody (ASC91168) for SC10 4x4 would fit on the coming soon Factory Team SC10 4X4??
The Chassis Brace seems to be in the way and the 2 "Clip holders" are gone. Looking at the Factory Team SC10 4X4 pictures and manual diagrams where these 2 "clip holders" used to be are replaced with screws to secure the carbon brace. Even if we can use Velcro to stick the underbody on the car, I think the chassis brace would still be in the way??
Because I already have this Underbody....I want to use it on the Factory Team kit.
Thanks.
Robert
The Chassis Brace seems to be in the way and the 2 "Clip holders" are gone. Looking at the Factory Team SC10 4X4 pictures and manual diagrams where these 2 "clip holders" used to be are replaced with screws to secure the carbon brace. Even if we can use Velcro to stick the underbody on the car, I think the chassis brace would still be in the way??
Because I already have this Underbody....I want to use it on the Factory Team kit.
Thanks.
Robert
So after 6 packs the white front springs on the rear shocks are a keeper for me. I may try 25wt oil but the 22.5 worked well. My track is a smaller outdoor track setup for 1/10 sct. No big jumps but good technical turns and bumps. Surface is hard pack and high grip with some ruts. My setup is below. Hopefully some food for thought.
Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv
MMP
Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis
3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery
-1 camber front rear
0 toe
1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway
22mm ride hight
weight bias front 48% rear 52%
Yellow front springs white front springs on rear
center diff
RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear
Gearing 14/60
Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers
Chassis brace
1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear
think that's about it
Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv
MMP
Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis
3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery
-1 camber front rear
0 toe
1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway
22mm ride hight
weight bias front 48% rear 52%
Yellow front springs white front springs on rear
center diff
RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear
Gearing 14/60
Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers
Chassis brace
1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear
think that's about it
Last edited by SCTDan; 02-28-2012 at 07:20 PM.
Well. If you try really hard to cut the sections that hit the chassis brace, you'll still hack up the cover, but it will slide down to the point to velcro at the sides inside the Nerf bars. I'm just not sure "how much" cutting because I haven't seen the brace. "my" brace, only takes a little chop on the cover to fit the cover over.
So after 6 packs the white front springs on the rear shocks are a keeper for me. I may try 25wt oil but the 22.5 worked well. My track is a smaller outdoor track setup for 1/10 act. No big jumps but good technical turns and bumps. Surface is hard pack and high grip with some ruts. My setup is below. Hopefully some food for thought.
Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv
MMP
Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis
3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery
-1 camber front rear
0 toe
1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway
22mm ride hight
weight bias front 48% rear 52%
Yellow front springs white front springs on rear
center diff
RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear
Gearing 15/60
Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers
Chassis brace
1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear
think that's about it
Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv
MMP
Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis
3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery
-1 camber front rear
0 toe
1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway
22mm ride hight
weight bias front 48% rear 52%
Yellow front springs white front springs on rear
center diff
RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear
Gearing 15/60
Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers
Chassis brace
1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear
think that's about it
(yes, I'm calmed down from last Sunday's Bullshit)
The rears are too soft. The fronts are okay. Compounding the problem is between 52-58% of the total vehicle weight is on the rear, making that spring act even softer.
Front springs are slightly too short for use on the rear, so if you try them, you'll need a 2mm spacer between the eyelet and the spring bucket to shim it up.
If you have a set of stock blue fronts lying around try it. It'll fly a lot better.
Front springs are slightly too short for use on the rear, so if you try them, you'll need a 2mm spacer between the eyelet and the spring bucket to shim it up.
If you have a set of stock blue fronts lying around try it. It'll fly a lot better.
Sal
So after 6 packs the white front springs on the rear shocks are a keeper for me. I may try 25wt oil but the 22.5 worked well. My track is a smaller outdoor track setup for 1/10 sct. No big jumps but good technical turns and bumps. Surface is hard pack and high grip with some ruts. My setup is below. Hopefully some food for thought.
Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv
MMP
Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis
3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery
-1 camber front rear
0 toe
1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway
22mm ride hight
weight bias front 48% rear 52%
Yellow front springs white front springs on rear
center diff
RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear
Gearing 14/60
Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers
Chassis brace
1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear
think that's about it
Motor tenshock sc411 4600kv
MMP
Nano tech 6000mah 65c stick center mounted in chassis
3.5oz lead on centerline in front of battery
-1 camber front rear
0 toe
1.8 front sway. 2.5 rear sway
22mm ride hight
weight bias front 48% rear 52%
Yellow front springs white front springs on rear
center diff
RC Shox 2 stage pistons. 27.5 front oil. 22.5 rear
Gearing 14/60
Rear shocks mounted on inside of arms. Fronts outside. Both middle on towers
Chassis brace
1.5 mm spacer under front inside camber link. 0 rear
think that's about it
Sal
Other than the Center mounted Battery, and Front White in the rear, this is my Truck. And I push out of the corners like it's going out of style. I might be playing with springs sunday alot more heavily than I originally thought. Thanks for the food for thought SCT, and Craig.
(yes, I'm calmed down from last Sunday's Bullshit)
(yes, I'm calmed down from last Sunday's Bullshit)
Welcome back from the edge Shaun....lol. You have a PM. Brace fixed, waiting for Diff news if any.
Sal
Well. If you try really hard to cut the sections that hit the chassis brace, you'll still hack up the cover, but it will slide down to the point to velcro at the sides inside the Nerf bars. I'm just not sure "how much" cutting because I haven't seen the brace. "my" brace, only takes a little chop on the cover to fit the cover over.



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