Why do you care about the L/R balance at all? Unless it's something way off like 60/40, or you are setting up a car for an oval track, it doesn't matter that much. That's why you adjust the collars while on the scales to get the cross weight right.

Frankly, I'm confused as to why bringing the batteries forward or aft changes the side to side weight. Can you explain it to me, or do I misunderstand what you are trying to accomplish?

And now that you've increased weight bias by moving the batteries back 2", I'm sure you've got around 58% rear weight, with that much rearword ballast I'm certain it's going to be hyper loose getting in the corner, and push mid corner off...

I did a search on chassis brace and found results. My question is, can is screw in rod ends with grub screws or do i need to screw 4-40 all thread thru cf tube.
Thanks

Because i want to care about side/side weight. Sad i do not own a scale to get it more exactly.

And the main reason i did this,i want to test it..why always do like the other guys do

I have no idea mr how it will act, i will let you know after i test it

My set-up post

A few changes I made to test tomorrow on the new layout. To test stiffer rear springs I glued up a rebound hole on the stage two pistons so I now have 5 (1.1) compression and 5 (1.3) rebound holes. Also going to play with changing some of my weight placement.

If you don't have a scale, how can you know if you have it 50/50, or something else. Without scales, you're just guessing - and if it works, it's pure luck and you won't be able to replicate it.

The left right balance isn't nearly as important as getting the corner weights right - you adjust that with shock preload.

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/art...orner-weights/

If you want to redo the testing that other users have done and documented here, go for it. I'm all for doing your own work, but I'd expect it to be exactly the same.

It's too bad users like yourself don't use the search function more often.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...s-reviews.html

I static balance my truck left to right. I hang the truck on center with string through the cross bracing on the shock towers. I use a small bubble level on the shock towers (body post, and tires removed) and add weight or move the speed control and receiver to bring the truck level again. A truck carrying more weight on one side will not turn each way or fly the same as one that is close to equal. Yes the springs and shocks will change the wheel weight but does help to at least balance the chassis.

I decided to switch my truck to in-line saddle pack configuration. The Gens Ace 6000mah 25C 2S batteries wont be here until later this week but I figured I might as well get started on the mount. There are many nice mounts available however I like the challenge of building my own. Please excuse the sloppiness, I am not very skilled with power tools. The side walls are 1/16 inch aluminum L channel. The batteries are held in place by Velcro straps. Net Saturday I have a race in which I will be testing the saddles. I'll let you guys know how this goes, I hear very good things about it.
This conversion costed me nothing except the batteries, everything else I had on hand.
Pics:

You could dress that with a hand file and improve it's appearance, otherwise looks legit.

Thanks! I will try that. Hurry up USPS!!!!!

Craig first, thank you for all links and tip you give me, im glad for it.

I do not think my car will act like the other saddle config....thats why i wrote, i have no idea. I have been looking in to that thread a lot with the saddle rewiew, but still, i do not like that layout. If my car do not work like i want, there is just little work to get it back..

Like i said, i will wright here after i tested my car, with the saddle config i use.

Have a nice day

Wow, we disagree on something! Sort of.

I could see where you would want to do just that if you were running the chassis with a setup that you knew was way asymmetrical (for example, a 550 can motor and a stick pack).

If you have scales, you can do the exact same thing if you adjust the shock preload with a set of calipers so it's the same on both sides.

It's my preference to first set ride height, then start on the scales, and attempt to get the corner weights right using preload first. I then go measure the preload for each corner, and then check ride height on all four corners. If the heights aren't fairly equal, then I look at moving ballast around, or maybe even adding it.

Frankly, you'll never get the L/R balance perfect - but even if you could, I submit you shouldn't even try. What you should (and can) do is get the cross weight perfect.



In my experience, getting the cross weight as close to 50% as possible is the most important part of getting the chassis to jump and handle consistently.

Cool. Good luck!

Craig and Cameron .... Thanks for the setup advice. Its the fact that are a few polite people here that I check every day to see what's new. My r/c interest has taken off again.... FUN is back!

Sal

What exactly is cross weight?

Didn't even understand my simple tease? (stated "I tease" and with =P faces?) Who's the 'emo now?

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I'll see you tomorrow maybe, Cameron.

Craig I do agree with you we just start different. I prefer to add weight for handling front to back and not for balance if possible. From what I have found even with saddles the truck is still heavy on the right side. The clutch basket and belt system with covers is still heaver than my RSPro, Murfdogg caps, fan, and 540 motor. I had to add 7g by the motor to balance. Even with the belt covers removed (except gear cover)

I see the Pro's are running the covers with the speedo on the right side but with a bigger motor. I am sure they are still right side heavy though.