RC10B4.1 FT/WC
02-24-2012 | 08:01 PM
Savöx 1258tg and the B4.1 RTR/FT - Installation Guide
FYI for those who might buy this excellent servo:
If you still have the stock SC450BL servo (RTR only), it has 25 teeth on the spline and uses the F (Futaba-style) horn. The 1258tg uses the same one. First remove the two servo arm screws from under the chassis. Unplug the servo from your receiver. Then, uncouple the servo saver from the steering rack. It's easy, if you use some needlenose pliers to twist the ball cup to one side while pulling. You don't need to take the servo saver off the servo horn, but I did, to replace the pad and get it out of the way. Remove the four screws and washers from the servo arms. Save these, you'll need them later*. You won't need the spacer, if there is one currently on there.
Carefully remove the servo horn. I used the tiniest bit of WD40 on it, a needlenose pliers wedged between the servo and the horn, and gentle pressure to wedge it off. Let the WD40 do it's thing if you're struggling.. It shouldn't take much, if any, muscle. Remember, you're trying to SAVE both the horn, and your trusty old servo! Make sure you're not *squeezing* the pliers! You're just using them to pry the horn off from two sides at once. Once the horn is off, relax. The dangerous part is over.
Now, on to your new 1258tg:
First thing is to ensure, on your gun, that your steering trim is set to neutral, and your gun is set to allow maximum steering travel. On the stock RTR gun, that's the thumb wheel on the grip.
Also, check your steering rack to make sure it's super loose. Moving your wheels all the way from right to left should require no force at all. Checking this first will help cut down on the servo blipping and stuttering as it fights to recenter. If your steering isn't free and loose, your servo will be chirping a lot. You can't eliminate ALL of the noise, these servos are ridiculously sensitive, and you will hear a lot more going on than with the stock servo. But it shouldn't be a constant, horrible buzzing or screeching. Just little blips and ticks here and there.
Before you install the F horn, while the servo is still loose, laying on your workbench, connect the servo to your receiver, ensure your steering trim on your gun is neutral, and power up your car. The servo will self-center. Turn your car off, use a tiny bit of WD40 on the teeth of the servo horn, and carefully, barely install the F horn, so that the spline (gear) is on the left, and the horn points straight up (perpendicular to the servo, if the servo is laying flat on the table). Just push it on a little, don't cram it on there yet.
Now power up your car again. The servo will again self-center. If you did well, the servo horn should still be pointing either dead straight up, or just slightly off. My horn didn't line up dead straight but it was very close. Turn your wheel all the way right and left a couple times, check that the horn stops at or a little past 90 degrees on both sides. If you weren't able to get the horn pointing dead straight up, because the teeth didn't line up precisely, use the trim on your gun to get the horn pointing straight up. You shouldn't need to use anywhere near all your trim. On the stock gun, I needed about 25 degrees of trim on the knob. Plenty left over. If it's not right, power off, carefully pull the horn off, and try it again til it's right. Don't forget to have the power OFF any time you're pushing on or pulling off the horn.
If everything's working at this point:
Pause for a moment to chuckle at the Awesome speed and power of your new servo...
Once it's lined up correctly, with the power off, push the servo horn all the way on. Some folks say the horn is hard to get on, (mine wasn't that bad) so the WD40 will help here. Don't go spraying it all over your new servo, just use a little on the horn itself. There will be a little gap between the horn and the servo body, maybe 2mm. This is good.
Now, use the screw in the tiny baggie that came with the 1258tg (i also used the little lock washer, teeth pointed at the servo) and screw the horn to the servo. Don't go nuts, its not going anywhere.
You may want to check your alignment one more time here, if you've got OCD, and/or you screw stuff up on occasion. Power off again once this is done.
Finish installing the servo by snapping the servo saver ballcup onto the horn if you removed it earlier. Then, using the four old screws and washers from your old servo arms (again, no spacer needed), screw the servo arms into the sides of the servo -- but don't tighten them all the way down yet!. Make sure the feet are pointed down toward the chassis. Check the screw hole alignment under the car, then fully tighten the servo arm screws. Reinstall the servo screws from under the chassis, and the servo saver of your choice on to the steering rack, and you should be ready to rock! (Getting the servo saver back on to the steering rack isn't much fun. I supported the steering rack from underneath with a narrow screwdriver). Don't forget to tie up your extra wire so it's out of the way and neat.
I use the stock ESC, no glitches to report. If you have glitching, check out either the $6 Spektrum voltage protector (SPM1600), $9 Novak glitch buster, or if those fail, a $25 Castle BEC... There's more discussion on these elsewhere in this thread, or in the electronics thread off the main menu here at R/CTech, or Google.
Hope this makes it easy, feedback appreciated!
If you still have the stock SC450BL servo (RTR only), it has 25 teeth on the spline and uses the F (Futaba-style) horn. The 1258tg uses the same one. First remove the two servo arm screws from under the chassis. Unplug the servo from your receiver. Then, uncouple the servo saver from the steering rack. It's easy, if you use some needlenose pliers to twist the ball cup to one side while pulling. You don't need to take the servo saver off the servo horn, but I did, to replace the pad and get it out of the way. Remove the four screws and washers from the servo arms. Save these, you'll need them later*. You won't need the spacer, if there is one currently on there.
Carefully remove the servo horn. I used the tiniest bit of WD40 on it, a needlenose pliers wedged between the servo and the horn, and gentle pressure to wedge it off. Let the WD40 do it's thing if you're struggling.. It shouldn't take much, if any, muscle. Remember, you're trying to SAVE both the horn, and your trusty old servo! Make sure you're not *squeezing* the pliers! You're just using them to pry the horn off from two sides at once. Once the horn is off, relax. The dangerous part is over.
Now, on to your new 1258tg:
First thing is to ensure, on your gun, that your steering trim is set to neutral, and your gun is set to allow maximum steering travel. On the stock RTR gun, that's the thumb wheel on the grip.
Also, check your steering rack to make sure it's super loose. Moving your wheels all the way from right to left should require no force at all. Checking this first will help cut down on the servo blipping and stuttering as it fights to recenter. If your steering isn't free and loose, your servo will be chirping a lot. You can't eliminate ALL of the noise, these servos are ridiculously sensitive, and you will hear a lot more going on than with the stock servo. But it shouldn't be a constant, horrible buzzing or screeching. Just little blips and ticks here and there.
Before you install the F horn, while the servo is still loose, laying on your workbench, connect the servo to your receiver, ensure your steering trim on your gun is neutral, and power up your car. The servo will self-center. Turn your car off, use a tiny bit of WD40 on the teeth of the servo horn, and carefully, barely install the F horn, so that the spline (gear) is on the left, and the horn points straight up (perpendicular to the servo, if the servo is laying flat on the table). Just push it on a little, don't cram it on there yet.
Now power up your car again. The servo will again self-center. If you did well, the servo horn should still be pointing either dead straight up, or just slightly off. My horn didn't line up dead straight but it was very close. Turn your wheel all the way right and left a couple times, check that the horn stops at or a little past 90 degrees on both sides. If you weren't able to get the horn pointing dead straight up, because the teeth didn't line up precisely, use the trim on your gun to get the horn pointing straight up. You shouldn't need to use anywhere near all your trim. On the stock gun, I needed about 25 degrees of trim on the knob. Plenty left over. If it's not right, power off, carefully pull the horn off, and try it again til it's right. Don't forget to have the power OFF any time you're pushing on or pulling off the horn.
If everything's working at this point:
Pause for a moment to chuckle at the Awesome speed and power of your new servo...
Once it's lined up correctly, with the power off, push the servo horn all the way on. Some folks say the horn is hard to get on, (mine wasn't that bad) so the WD40 will help here. Don't go spraying it all over your new servo, just use a little on the horn itself. There will be a little gap between the horn and the servo body, maybe 2mm. This is good.
Now, use the screw in the tiny baggie that came with the 1258tg (i also used the little lock washer, teeth pointed at the servo) and screw the horn to the servo. Don't go nuts, its not going anywhere.
You may want to check your alignment one more time here, if you've got OCD, and/or you screw stuff up on occasion. Power off again once this is done.
Finish installing the servo by snapping the servo saver ballcup onto the horn if you removed it earlier. Then, using the four old screws and washers from your old servo arms (again, no spacer needed), screw the servo arms into the sides of the servo -- but don't tighten them all the way down yet!. Make sure the feet are pointed down toward the chassis. Check the screw hole alignment under the car, then fully tighten the servo arm screws. Reinstall the servo screws from under the chassis, and the servo saver of your choice on to the steering rack, and you should be ready to rock! (Getting the servo saver back on to the steering rack isn't much fun. I supported the steering rack from underneath with a narrow screwdriver). Don't forget to tie up your extra wire so it's out of the way and neat.
I use the stock ESC, no glitches to report. If you have glitching, check out either the $6 Spektrum voltage protector (SPM1600), $9 Novak glitch buster, or if those fail, a $25 Castle BEC... There's more discussion on these elsewhere in this thread, or in the electronics thread off the main menu here at R/CTech, or Google.
Hope this makes it easy, feedback appreciated!
Last edited by jf+; 02-25-2012 at 12:41 AM.
02-24-2012 | 08:32 PM
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 9
From: TRCR Novice
FYI for those who might buy this excellent servo:
If you still have the stock SC450BL servo, it has 25 teeth on the spline and uses the F (Futaba-style) horn. Carefully remove this horn, because the 1258tg uses the same one. First remove the two servo arm screws from under the chassis. Then, uncouple the servo saver. It's easy, if you use some needlenose pliers to twist the ball cup to one side while pulling. Remove the four screws and washers from the servo arms. Save these, you'll need them later*.
You will not need to use a spacer on the 1258tg. Before you install the F horn, while the servo is still loose, laying on your workbench, connect the servo to your receiver, set your steering trim on your gun to neutral, and power up your car. The servo will self-center. Turn your car off, use a tiny bit of WD40 on the teeth of the servo horn, and carefully install the F horn, so that the spline is on the left, and the horn points straight up (perpendicular to the servo, if the servo is laying flat on the table). Just push it on a little, don't cram it on there yet.
Now power up your car again. The servo will again self-center. If you did well, the servo horn should still be pointing either dead straight up, or just slightly off. My horn didn't line up dead straight but it was very close. Turn your wheel all the way right and left a couple times, check that the horn stops at or a little past 90 degrees on both sides. If it's not right, power off, carefully pull the horn off, and try it again til it's right. Don't forget to have the power OFF any time you're pushing on or pulling off the horn.
If everything's working at this point:
Pause for a moment to chuckle at the Awesome speed and power of your new servo...
Once it's lined up correctly, with the power off, push the servo horn all the way on. Some folks say the horn is hard to get on, (mine wasn't that bad) so the WD40 will help here. Don't go spraying it all over your new servo, just use a little on the horn itself. There will be a little gap between the horn and the servo body, maybe 2mm. This is good.
Now, use the screw in the tiny baggie that came with the 1258tg (i also used the little lock washer, teeth pointed at the servo) and screw the horn to the servo. Don't go nuts, its not going anywhere.
You may want to check your alignment one more time here, if you've got OCD, and/or you screw stuff up on occasion. Power off again once this is done.
Finish installing the servo by screwing the servo arms into the sides of the servo. Make sure the feet are pointed down toward the chassis. *Use the old screws and washers from your old servo arms. Again, no spacer needed. Check the screw hole alignment under the car, then fully tighten the servo arm screws. Reinstall the servo screws from under the chassis, and the servo saver of your choice, and you should be ready to rock! Don't forget to tie up your extra wire so it's out of the way and neat.
I use the stock ESC, no glitches to report. Enjoy!
If you still have the stock SC450BL servo, it has 25 teeth on the spline and uses the F (Futaba-style) horn. Carefully remove this horn, because the 1258tg uses the same one. First remove the two servo arm screws from under the chassis. Then, uncouple the servo saver. It's easy, if you use some needlenose pliers to twist the ball cup to one side while pulling. Remove the four screws and washers from the servo arms. Save these, you'll need them later*.
You will not need to use a spacer on the 1258tg. Before you install the F horn, while the servo is still loose, laying on your workbench, connect the servo to your receiver, set your steering trim on your gun to neutral, and power up your car. The servo will self-center. Turn your car off, use a tiny bit of WD40 on the teeth of the servo horn, and carefully install the F horn, so that the spline is on the left, and the horn points straight up (perpendicular to the servo, if the servo is laying flat on the table). Just push it on a little, don't cram it on there yet.
Now power up your car again. The servo will again self-center. If you did well, the servo horn should still be pointing either dead straight up, or just slightly off. My horn didn't line up dead straight but it was very close. Turn your wheel all the way right and left a couple times, check that the horn stops at or a little past 90 degrees on both sides. If it's not right, power off, carefully pull the horn off, and try it again til it's right. Don't forget to have the power OFF any time you're pushing on or pulling off the horn.
If everything's working at this point:
Pause for a moment to chuckle at the Awesome speed and power of your new servo...
Once it's lined up correctly, with the power off, push the servo horn all the way on. Some folks say the horn is hard to get on, (mine wasn't that bad) so the WD40 will help here. Don't go spraying it all over your new servo, just use a little on the horn itself. There will be a little gap between the horn and the servo body, maybe 2mm. This is good.
Now, use the screw in the tiny baggie that came with the 1258tg (i also used the little lock washer, teeth pointed at the servo) and screw the horn to the servo. Don't go nuts, its not going anywhere.
You may want to check your alignment one more time here, if you've got OCD, and/or you screw stuff up on occasion. Power off again once this is done.
Finish installing the servo by screwing the servo arms into the sides of the servo. Make sure the feet are pointed down toward the chassis. *Use the old screws and washers from your old servo arms. Again, no spacer needed. Check the screw hole alignment under the car, then fully tighten the servo arm screws. Reinstall the servo screws from under the chassis, and the servo saver of your choice, and you should be ready to rock! Don't forget to tie up your extra wire so it's out of the way and neat.
I use the stock ESC, no glitches to report. Enjoy!
02-24-2012 | 09:58 PM
02-25-2012 | 02:17 AM
G'day y'all,
I am in need of some help from some of you AE gurus, I am looking for a setup sheet from the 2010 or 2011 cactus classic for my b4.1, I can't find one for the life of me.
Please help!
Pm me or shoot me an email [email protected]
Cheers
John
I am in need of some help from some of you AE gurus, I am looking for a setup sheet from the 2010 or 2011 cactus classic for my b4.1, I can't find one for the life of me.
Please help!
Pm me or shoot me an email [email protected]
Cheers
John
02-25-2012 | 05:35 AM
I'm also looking for some setup sheets. I'm looking for a setup sheet for a B4.1 that has track conditions such as:
low traction
bumpy
clay
dusty
If anyone knows where to find any setup sheets that'll fit those track conditions, that'd be awesome! Also, does anyone know what the benefits/trade-offs are to running b44 rear a-arms on a B4.1?
low traction
bumpy
clay
dusty
If anyone knows where to find any setup sheets that'll fit those track conditions, that'd be awesome! Also, does anyone know what the benefits/trade-offs are to running b44 rear a-arms on a B4.1?
02-25-2012 | 06:41 AM
I'm also looking for some setup sheets. I'm looking for a setup sheet for a B4.1 that has track conditions such as:
low traction
bumpy
clay
dusty
If anyone knows where to find any setup sheets that'll fit those track conditions, that'd be awesome! Also, does anyone know what the benefits/trade-offs are to running b44 rear a-arms on a B4.1?
low traction
bumpy
clay
dusty
If anyone knows where to find any setup sheets that'll fit those track conditions, that'd be awesome! Also, does anyone know what the benefits/trade-offs are to running b44 rear a-arms on a B4.1?
B44 rear arms have a little less flex than B4.1 ones, freeing up the rear a little.
02-25-2012 | 07:41 AM
Here's a link to a plethora of various B4 set ups. Hope it helps:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...tedRC10B4.html
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...tedRC10B4.html
02-25-2012 | 07:50 AM
You're better off updating. Smoother ESC. You can set the "feel" to 10 and it won't give you any more power. That setting is like your expnential on your radio. It doesn't affect your max power, just how quickly you get there. So in essence, the higher you set it, the less throttle control you end up having (more like an on off switch).
02-25-2012 | 08:10 AM
Ok, so I updated it last night in between qualifiers and it seemed different for sure. Did you have to adjust gearing for the update. I primarily run 13.5 no boost with the reedy sonic motor. I am at a 72/30 right now but it can go all the way to a 35 and still have reasonable temps. Do you have any suggestions for gearing with a 17.5 no boost reedy as well? Thanks
02-25-2012 | 08:29 AM
Most setups call for the inner a hole. It starts with a as the innermost hole then b, c. Same as in the tower, the inner is referred to as 1 and the out as 2.
02-25-2012 | 10:01 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Ok, so I updated it last night in between qualifiers and it seemed different for sure. Did you have to adjust gearing for the update. I primarily run 13.5 no boost with the reedy sonic motor. I am at a 72/30 right now but it can go all the way to a 35 and still have reasonable temps. Do you have any suggestions for gearing with a 17.5 no boost reedy as well? Thanks
I haven't run 13.5 since before the update so I don't know what gearing to use for certain. I know I was running 29/81 with a good amount of boost.
Just keep in mind that now your boost numbers and feel numbers are totally different. Blinky mode also requires you to have both of them set at 0.