Cameron, I hope you slip Ryan a copy of your setup sheet
Never know, yours might be perfect too

I have been reading and can see that Craig is just all over the math stuff....and I love the way he can explain it. Thanks Craig!

BTW, could you let me know where to find your setup sheet...I may want to experiment with Springs too. Hell, maybe I will take some old t-2 or b-2 shocks and mount them all around as "helper/two stage" Suspension. Im sure it wont work but will draw attention to "my" setup.


Sal

PS....big thanks to all involved here who know how to "explain" things to the common folk. Common Knowlege is Like Common Sense....not too Common.

is there two ft wheel hexs out ?

Chris.............thanks for the sway bars, they came in today.
Paul R.

When you raise he inner ball stud, you lower the roll center. Now, we have to keep in mind that this is the static roll center. The actual roll center is constantly changing with chassis movement. The probl---err difficulty with this truck is that the cog and rc ratios front to rear are wacked. Early on I noticed the truck would corner with the rear rolling too much and the front too little. I raised the front inner ballstud 5mm, but how to lower the rear ballstud?? I chose to raise the outer ballstud instead. This fixed the rear roll center. I used the carbon fiber risers for the b4,t4. The rise was a little too much though. We need a rear hub carrier that has either a verticle ballstud, or a taller mounting point. Probably only 1-2mm would do.
With the raised outer stud, all hint of snap roll was gone!! The issue was the camber gain the truck then had in the rear. I needed more range of adjustment for link length.

I wish Marcus or STRC made a different rear hub carrier. hint hint.

Like this.
rear hub

Ooooh. Looks nice. Has anyone tried this? I kinda thought that the FT version would have come with redesigned rear hubs with more adjustment. I know a couple of guys at my track that tried the b4 carbon fiber risers.

Now... Because I said I was shelving it, I am in direct receiving of this comment, So I only tease... But your truck has been at Mantis' place being tuned by 'not you' for weeks. You haven't been here with us experimenting forever. Where do you get to say "too easy" =P

I ended up getting the RCE chassis for the Slash and regret it heavily. Bottom line is, I've tuned for 8 months. I'm burnt out. I need a break, and the Slash drives better outside than my Sc10 4x4 does. No, it can't take those corners, But when the Losi's are taking the embankments on a big outdoor Track, I can too, and take them with skill, not a sharp corner.

I'm keeping an eye here and still driving my Sc10 4x4. But i'm done trying to get it to be my All terrain 4x4.

Can't go wrong with them to be honest. Hard to screw up a bearing carrier unless it uses some odd bearing -non- stock like those chinese do sometimes.

Thank you for the complement, I sincerely appreciate it.

If you really want it, send me a PM. My advice is you don't really want it, you'd do better if you followed Cameron's sheet. He gets a lot more track time than I do, and is way more dialed in.

Some users have commented from time to time that the rear roll center is too low. AE does have a fix for that - look at the carbon pieces on the hubs...and while we're at it, look how much preload BK has on his rear springs. And count how many coils he has.



I'm pretty sure those are blue fronts in the rear.

Wonder what those white springs are. Some Random "goodluck finding them" 8th scale spring no doubt.

I have the AE carbon hub, and +3mm under the ball stud in the rear. All the way down was too loose.

Couldn't you balance the rise you get with the cf risers by then adding washers under the inner ballstud to get it where you need it? Seems logical to me, or no?

Ooops, Craig answered the question already.

I somehow missed it and tried searching but couldn't find it, could you point or repost it?

Is that an old picture? I wonder why he is running the saddles up front?

without looking threw the hole thread is there a better steering bellcrank then the stock system I just bought a SC10 off a buddy that just broke the arm from where it swivels to the rack is the STRC aluminum system worth it or is there something I could use better then stock for that?

Also this truck is bone stock what else should I look to replace in the front while I have it off?