There is a seal you can get that goes between the cartridge and shock body? Do you know the part number for those?

So does raising the ballstud increase grip

Why all of the sudden doe's it seem like everyone is so down on this truck, it's still a fairly new design, I can't see AE giving up on this for an rc8e design any time soon, just doesn't make any since IMO, over all it still has allot of advantages over the other trucks.

Thanks for the advice on the batteries! I will stay the way of the stick and just buy one more this way I can also use it between my T4. And as CraigMBA said I'am going to trying adding wieght to balance the truck since everyone seems to think it is to light. I had great success adding ALOT of wieght to my T4. I know I can get this truck to work. You have to treat it as a 1/10 and not a 1/8. They are 2 different animals. Although has anyone tried some 1/8 scale springs on it yet if everyone says the kit ones are soft. 13mm is a popular size on 1/8

I have a FT on Pre-Order. Pretty anxious to get it. Been thinkin...

Is a 550 really needed? Is there a noticeable difference in handling with a 540 vs 550?

Can anyone tell if you would be able (or want) to run a shorty pack instead of saddles?

No the 550 isn't needed, the tekin 4-pole 540 is the hot ticket.

I would say yes there's a diff in handling. The 550 puts all that weight away from the center line. I had to add 5oz. to balance my truck, stick packs and 550 motor. W/ the castle 3800 I could take the weight out and still be balanced.

The saddle set-up is fine, wouldn't mess w/ the shorty's. Craig is running 2 1 cell packs, though. Little different shape than the saddles.

swaybars arrived today! thanks chris!

You identified the problems correctly, I only took issue with your solutions.

Here's my take on the situation:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10376190-post18090.html

A bit of clarification - the truck is not too light. It doesn't have enough weight on the front axle for outdoor tracks.

Since we can't move the motor or peal out 5 oz from the back of the truck, that's kind of your only option. If I could get a way to put my truck on a diet down to the ROAR minimum and get the F/R right, I would. Less weight = less battery use = more rip OR more run time.

And I was all ready to buy one, but then Randy Pike showed what a piece of sh*t he and Tekin are over on the Novak thread. Even Jang didn't think it was the greatest thing ever.

I mean, seriously, I wouldn't use a Tekin product if it was the last option on earth after this temper tantrum.

yes

Question. Or a few. Setting up the truck with even weight distribution will allow me to run same colored springs? Which in turn will jump better and rotate easier. Also is there any way to find or "measure" your center of gravity? Thanks in advance

Probably the dumbest question asked in awhile

Has anyone lost any CV pins. I am building mine for the first time and noticed that that cover just lays loose on there and if you pull the axle and move the cover the pin is exposed and can fall out. Any problems with that??

ASC6469. It's shown in the FT manual, but not in the normal kit.
Edit: In the latest manual for the normal kit, it's also shown.

no once it is in the hub it isn't sliding off. I wish they would have done that with the 2wd.

I noticed mantis setup my truck with the camber links on the outer holes on the shock tower with about a 5mm spacer under that, what effect does that have? less body roll?

It takes away the trucks tendency to snap roll into corners. It actually allows your truck TO roll, without catching an edge and snapping. I'd be willing to bet you also now have the 3-3 rear pivot block on. This allows the truck to gain back some of the rotation lost to the stability the washers under the ballstuds gave you.

To anyone building one of these. START with 3-4mm of spacers under the inner ballstuds. All the way around. This raises the roll center and gives you a fighting chance of stumbling on a base setup. You may find you like less, but it's a starting point.

Actually thay have a clip on style on the GT2 (part#7996) That was the best design that I saw. I use heat shrink on my other rides