"light" when it comes to balance isn't measured in weight. It all just depends where you put the weight. Slide all your electronics out and you'll be balanced.

But how much does your car weigh? I thinking getting balanced with a heavy battery, light electronics, and normal weight body at 1350g could be a challenge.

-Mike

just built my tc6.1, and i got some questions..

1: there is alot of sloop in the c hubs and rear hubs, seems like the hingepin is a tad too small, has anyone else noticed it?

2: i filled the rear diff with 30wt oil, and its really loose, is it supposed to be that? (my previous sakura had far tighter diffs, but they werent the best..) the tc6 diff is by far the best diff i have ever built, just sanded the gears a little to get the back of them smoooth, its smooth! no run in required, nice!
i`m quite new to gear diffs, last time i raced for real was 8 years ago

Yes. For the front, you can go back to TC5 caster blocks.

However, I found that when I glued the inserts in, and also dribbled a tiny bit of CA down the inside of the hinge pin hole in the c-hub and rear hub, it took pretty much all the slop out. It does mean that the hub will grip the hinge pin a bit, so you need to make sure the pin is turning freely in the arm. I had to back off the hinge pin retaining screws a hair (1/8 - 1/4 turn maybe) to make sure things were moving freely.

I don't think you're supposed to sand the gears. That might be your problem.

When I built mine, I didn't sand because the instructions didn't say to. It was fairly notchy, but as soon as I put the car down and ran it for a couple minutes, it completely smoothed out.

-Mike

The ESC and RX were at the edge of the chassis.... so yes, 30g literally did balance it out

Car with 2 gear diffs and a regular painted body was just a hair over 1400 (SpecR diffs). Front spool and liteweight body would go under 1380....

just sanded each gear for 4 seconds with 1000grit paper so that cant be bad, just took of some flashing from the rear

The weight transfers back to front also..........so in theory you want equal weight side to side so it transfers equal front to back.

I would rather the gears go in smoothed by hand then have them "forced" to smooth out by running it on the track. I have built numerous gear diffs of 4 different brands and I did the same to every plastic gear - lightly sanded the back with a fine-grit.

was looking into getting a tc6 or 6.1 can a tc6 be converted over,my guess is yes. would it be worth it or would i be better off with the tc6 to start with. if i got the tc6 id probly look for a used on and convert it as parts broke,or needed replacing.

True but then the front / back weight itself comes into play then too. Obviously the battery side is much more consistent front to back then the servo/motor side.

Always a challenge balancing a car I guess.

I recently built 3 of these cars and tested them all from bench to track and I was very impressed with all of them
What is the advantage of this steering set up

A tc6 can be converted to a 6.1 as all parts are compatable but if you are gonna get serious it makes more sense getting the 6.1. The upgrades far out weigh the small price difference. Also, I find it very helpful in building my kit when getting something new or different.

gotta get me one of these...

It felt smoother to me, allows more room for electronics, and depending on the servo it balances easier (for me, anyway). Plus it allows more flex of the upper deck.

Ok I can see how all that would work very nicely done
Are you as crafty with avatars I need to switch my serpent logo
To the AE logo cause one of those 3cars was mine lol