SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 203
From: Virginia
I also get disappointed when people hack up their bodies and cut the rear fenders off. Makes the trucks look dumb and chopped up. Its bad enough companies are starting to make chop top bodies.
If you want to run in a class that says its a truck but looks nothing like it go run a truggy. Or just run ebuggy and be done with truck bodies all together.
I myself like the looks of trucks battling on the track. I may not be as accomplished as some of you experts in here, but the realistic racing is half the fun for me.
If you want to run in a class that says its a truck but looks nothing like it go run a truggy. Or just run ebuggy and be done with truck bodies all together.
I myself like the looks of trucks battling on the track. I may not be as accomplished as some of you experts in here, but the realistic racing is half the fun for me.

+100000
Here is what I can tell are the settings on the sheet WC Sent (anything not listed was "blank" on the sheet like bumpsteer washers, etc)
FRONT
- Lower Shock mount position = Outer on A-arm
- Steering Stop Gap = 0
- Body Mount Position = 2
- Anti Roll Bar = 1.5mm
- Shock Tower Upper Shock mount position = 2
- Camber = -1
- Toe = 0
- Ride Height - 24mm
- Camber Link ballstud position on tower = 1
- Washers under Camber link o tower = 1m (mm?)
- Front Pully = 20T
- Belt Tension setting = 1
- Fulltime 4x4
- Shock Springs = Yellow
- Piston = 1.2
- Shock Fluid = 32.5W
- Limiter = 0 + 2 turns shock eyelet (from flush?)
- Rebound = 1m (mm?)
- Shock build = Emulsion
REAR
- Wheelbase = Medium
- Rear hub ballstud position = B
- Lower Shock mount position = Inner on A-arm
- Body Mount Position = 1
- Anti Roll Bar = 1.8mm
- Shock Tower Upper Shock mount position = BLANK
- Camber = -1
- Toe = 0
- Ride Height - 24mm
- Toe Block = 3-2
- Camber Link ballstud position on tower = 1
- Washers under Camber link o tower = 0
- Front Pully = 20T
- Belt Tension setting = 3
- Fulltime 4x4
- Shock Springs = Yellow
- Piston = 1.2
- Shock Fluid = 30W
- Limiter = 0
- Rebound = 1m (mm?)
- Shock build = Emulsion
Electronics
- Motor 4.5 or 4.0 550
- Spur = 62T
- Battery = Saddle
- B44.1 lipo tray mounted inline
Slipper / Diffs
- 10K Front
- 7K Rear
- Prototype multiplate
Chassis
- Brace = Yes
- 1 oz behind battery
- 1 oz in back chassis behind belt
- 1/4 oz near gear cover
Hope that helps.
Do you Recall WC what conditions these were for as well as the settings left blank?
When they mention coupled and decouple slipper setting, is that the pin mod or something else?
FRONT
- Lower Shock mount position = Outer on A-arm
- Steering Stop Gap = 0
- Body Mount Position = 2
- Anti Roll Bar = 1.5mm
- Shock Tower Upper Shock mount position = 2
- Camber = -1
- Toe = 0
- Ride Height - 24mm
- Camber Link ballstud position on tower = 1
- Washers under Camber link o tower = 1m (mm?)
- Front Pully = 20T
- Belt Tension setting = 1
- Fulltime 4x4
- Shock Springs = Yellow
- Piston = 1.2
- Shock Fluid = 32.5W
- Limiter = 0 + 2 turns shock eyelet (from flush?)
- Rebound = 1m (mm?)
- Shock build = Emulsion
REAR
- Wheelbase = Medium
- Rear hub ballstud position = B
- Lower Shock mount position = Inner on A-arm
- Body Mount Position = 1
- Anti Roll Bar = 1.8mm
- Shock Tower Upper Shock mount position = BLANK
- Camber = -1
- Toe = 0
- Ride Height - 24mm
- Toe Block = 3-2
- Camber Link ballstud position on tower = 1
- Washers under Camber link o tower = 0
- Front Pully = 20T
- Belt Tension setting = 3
- Fulltime 4x4
- Shock Springs = Yellow
- Piston = 1.2
- Shock Fluid = 30W
- Limiter = 0
- Rebound = 1m (mm?)
- Shock build = Emulsion
Electronics
- Motor 4.5 or 4.0 550
- Spur = 62T
- Battery = Saddle
- B44.1 lipo tray mounted inline
Slipper / Diffs
- 10K Front
- 7K Rear
- Prototype multiplate
Chassis
- Brace = Yes
- 1 oz behind battery
- 1 oz in back chassis behind belt
- 1/4 oz near gear cover
Hope that helps.
Do you Recall WC what conditions these were for as well as the settings left blank?
When they mention coupled and decouple slipper setting, is that the pin mod or something else?
)Im trying to possibly start a non for profit rc car club/track in the greater miami area b/c its a huge void in our community
...Let me know when you come down, as the coral springs crew are a class act and would love to have you...Very competative yet nice and helpful group of ppl that work hard on that track..Good times, indeed!
is there a part number for the 1.8mm swaybar? I used the search utility and see where they mention its now included, but didn't see a part number for just the swaybar on amain, tower, or AE's site?
I ordered two last night.
I hear what you're saying, but considering that real short course trucks have the windshields cut out of them....we aren't exactly getting it right either. On an related note, I had Carl Renezeder as a customer when AE was molding the original SC10 body, they used his real short course truck. If you look at the AE body and wonder why it looks like a Nissan roof with Ford headlights, grill, and windows, well, it's because it is. Carl had Nissan sponsorship, and when they went away, it required building an all new chassis to fit the Ford body, so they "made" it work.
If you're into realistic looks, have you considered running VTA? It's a riotously good time.
http://www.usvintagetransam.com/
If you're into realistic looks, have you considered running VTA? It's a riotously good time.
http://www.usvintagetransam.com/
0 bump steer washers
inside on rear tower for shock position
used a Multiplate slipper , not sure if they were using a pin or what ever so i left it blank...
Ty for the help
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 02-10-2012 at 12:28 PM.
Hey dub c .
Gonna try the wonder perfect set up and want to get it right when you say inside on tower for shock location you mean location 1 on the set up sheet correct ?
Want to give it a try and want to make sure we are 100% right
Thanks for the info
O&S
Gonna try the wonder perfect set up and want to get it right when you say inside on tower for shock location you mean location 1 on the set up sheet correct ?
Want to give it a try and want to make sure we are 100% right
Thanks for the info
O&S
I ordered two last night.
I hear what you're saying, but considering that real short course trucks have the windshields cut out of them....we aren't exactly getting it right either. On an related note, I had Carl Renezeder as a customer when AE was molding the original SC10 body, they used his real short course truck. If you look at the AE body and wonder why it looks like a Nissan roof with Ford headlights, grill, and windows, well, it's because it is. Carl had Nissan sponsorship, and when they went away, it required building an all new chassis to fit the Ford body, so they "made" it work.
If you're into realistic looks, have you considered running VTA? It's a riotously good time.
http://www.usvintagetransam.com/
I hear what you're saying, but considering that real short course trucks have the windshields cut out of them....we aren't exactly getting it right either. On an related note, I had Carl Renezeder as a customer when AE was molding the original SC10 body, they used his real short course truck. If you look at the AE body and wonder why it looks like a Nissan roof with Ford headlights, grill, and windows, well, it's because it is. Carl had Nissan sponsorship, and when they went away, it required building an all new chassis to fit the Ford body, so they "made" it work.
If you're into realistic looks, have you considered running VTA? It's a riotously good time.
http://www.usvintagetransam.com/
No thanks. If I road race again I will just run F1- for the fun of it.
Actually AE used Barlow Motorsports Red Bull Ford trucks for the original SC8. They actually used me in the add to help tie in the real truck to rc. Long before they did anything with Carl. And when Carl went to the Ford body finally it was all Ford no Nissan roof line. Until he ran out of Nissan body work on the other truck which was butt ugly with the Ford emblem on the front.
AE was at Carl's shop, and a week later, sombody dropped of like two dozen 1/18 scale RTRs. Everyone in the shop was out screwing off in the parking lot when I pulled up right after it happened.
Anyway, that body looks strikingly like the Nissan body work truck with the Ford emblem on it. They pop rivited the Ford grill over the Nissan grill ICRC, and restickered the headlights. It looked okay from 50 feet, but if you got up close you could totally tell.
No thanks. If I road race again I will just run F1- for the fun of it.



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