RC10T4.1 Thread.
02-07-2012 | 01:27 PM
#466
Good advice.
For that steering link, here it is:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-ALL...item53e8f6207a
However, he raised his price $5
Glad I ordered 2 of them right away
By the way, when you try the steering setup, you may feel as if you want to change something on your car as it will have a whole lot of steering. Don't. First thing I would recommend is dialing down the EXP on your radio so its not so reactive around the lower inputs.
For that steering link, here it is:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-ALL...item53e8f6207a
However, he raised his price $5
Glad I ordered 2 of them right away
By the way, when you try the steering setup, you may feel as if you want to change something on your car as it will have a whole lot of steering. Don't. First thing I would recommend is dialing down the EXP on your radio so its not so reactive around the lower inputs.
02-07-2012 | 01:35 PM
#468
02-07-2012 | 09:58 PM
#470
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,743
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Page 22 section 34 of the FT manual suggests starting with 20/87 giving a FDR of 6.50:1.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...-preflight.pdf
Question for everyone else, that same page of the manual suggests the starting gearing for a 3300kv motor to be 18/87, which is what the truck comes with, having an FDR of 12.57:1.
A few lines above its says that a 13.5t using the same exact gears would give an FDR of 7.80:1.
Time and again I hear the 3300kv compared to a 13.5t, how on earth could the FDR numbers be WORLDS apart using the same gears?
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...-preflight.pdf
Question for everyone else, that same page of the manual suggests the starting gearing for a 3300kv motor to be 18/87, which is what the truck comes with, having an FDR of 12.57:1.
A few lines above its says that a 13.5t using the same exact gears would give an FDR of 7.80:1.
Time and again I hear the 3300kv compared to a 13.5t, how on earth could the FDR numbers be WORLDS apart using the same gears?
I myself have never found a reason to figure out FDR unless comparing vehicles with different tranny ratios. I do the spur/pinion math and go from there, no reason to figure in the tranny as it never changes. Like I said, unless you're comparing different vehicles.
02-08-2012 | 06:54 AM
#471
Thread Starter
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,025
From: The 561
IIRC the manual is wrong, so I've read on here, do the math yourself to be sure.
I myself have never found a reason to figure out FDR unless comparing vehicles with different tranny ratios. I do the spur/pinion math and go from there, no reason to figure in the tranny as it never changes. Like I said, unless you're comparing different vehicles.
I myself have never found a reason to figure out FDR unless comparing vehicles with different tranny ratios. I do the spur/pinion math and go from there, no reason to figure in the tranny as it never changes. Like I said, unless you're comparing different vehicles.
02-08-2012 | 08:13 PM
#472
Tech Master
iTrader: (123)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,330
From: Tacos Under Cacti, Searing Our Neighborhood
Might come in usefull to your current delima Hinecken...
http://www.rcgearhead.com/Gearing/Browse
It's amazing what you forget when you remember you forgot it.
(just spied it in another thread)
http://www.rcgearhead.com/Gearing/Browse
It's amazing what you forget when you remember you forgot it.
(just spied it in another thread)
02-08-2012 | 11:21 PM
#473
Thread Starter
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,025
From: The 561
Might come in usefull to your current delima Hinecken...
http://www.rcgearhead.com/Gearing/Browse
It's amazing what you forget when you remember you forgot it.
(just spied it in another thread)
http://www.rcgearhead.com/Gearing/Browse
It's amazing what you forget when you remember you forgot it.
(just spied it in another thread)
Edit: when using the chart, I selected the novak ballistic stock spec since it is also 3300kv. They don't list my motor. Should this be a safe comparison?
02-09-2012 | 09:26 AM
#476
I think this was discussed in the thread earlier if you don't want to wait for an answer. Can't remember who did it though ...
Another option is the quick change wheel setup. I have that on my T4 and man I love it.
here you go:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10137815-post124.html
Another option is the quick change wheel setup. I have that on my T4 and man I love it.
here you go:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10137815-post124.html
Ok, works like a charm .. poor pics via my crackberry phone, but you will get the idea. It's rather simple and inexpensive.
Parts needed:
ASC9880 - SC10 Steering block Hex
ASC9598 - CVD Axle (these are easier to cut then the CVA's or older style)
I scavenged the remaining parts from a donor B4 or parts boxes...which you could scavenge all parts easily.
ASC9608B - FT rear wheel axle spacer
Misc Axle shims - 2 axle wheel pins (actually had to buy 2 - standard ones where too small for these older style axles!!)
Misc Wheel Nuts - 2 for new front axles
Ball stud nuts - 2 (new carries take nuts in recessed underside)
Reuse same bearrings as with front wheels...
There are only 2 mods that must be done, firstly you need to cut the "ball" off of the CVD axle, leaving just enough meat on the end of the axle to hold in the steering block.
I did not take a picture during this step. but here is link to the pic on Asso Parts house.. again, I chose this axle due to the ease of cut, your choice really...
And here, it's installed, complete on the truck...
The other "mod" you need to do, is take an exacto knife and
chuck out the small thin plastic inside the steering block where the hinge pin goes.
(the b4 hex conversion axles have a groove in them to compensate for this, I'm not skilled enough with a dremel to do that to the axles)
The plastic removed is very very very small. its just enough to round out the whole so the axle does not bind, but leaves a retainer for the bearings.
If I would have had a round needle file, it would have been perfect.
Thats the gist of it.
Would be SOOO much nicer looking if Associated would make the Hex axle for the T4!!!!! and I didnt suck so bad at dremel work
I can now swap wheels from front to back, etc real easily. I can go to Hex's if I wish, or stick with the pin wheels..
And Until JConcepts makes a Rulux Hex wheel like my fav's here... I will !!
Parts needed:
ASC9880 - SC10 Steering block Hex
ASC9598 - CVD Axle (these are easier to cut then the CVA's or older style)
I scavenged the remaining parts from a donor B4 or parts boxes...which you could scavenge all parts easily.
ASC9608B - FT rear wheel axle spacer
Misc Axle shims - 2 axle wheel pins (actually had to buy 2 - standard ones where too small for these older style axles!!)
Misc Wheel Nuts - 2 for new front axles
Ball stud nuts - 2 (new carries take nuts in recessed underside)
Reuse same bearrings as with front wheels...
There are only 2 mods that must be done, firstly you need to cut the "ball" off of the CVD axle, leaving just enough meat on the end of the axle to hold in the steering block.
I did not take a picture during this step. but here is link to the pic on Asso Parts house.. again, I chose this axle due to the ease of cut, your choice really...
And here, it's installed, complete on the truck...
The other "mod" you need to do, is take an exacto knife and
chuck out the small thin plastic inside the steering block where the hinge pin goes.
(the b4 hex conversion axles have a groove in them to compensate for this, I'm not skilled enough with a dremel to do that to the axles)
The plastic removed is very very very small. its just enough to round out the whole so the axle does not bind, but leaves a retainer for the bearings.
If I would have had a round needle file, it would have been perfect.
Thats the gist of it.
Would be SOOO much nicer looking if Associated would make the Hex axle for the T4!!!!! and I didnt suck so bad at dremel work
I can now swap wheels from front to back, etc real easily. I can go to Hex's if I wish, or stick with the pin wheels..
And Until JConcepts makes a Rulux Hex wheel like my fav's here... I will !!
02-09-2012 | 09:36 AM
#477
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 469
From: AZ
I think this was discussed in the thread earlier if you don't want to wait for an answer. Can't remember who did it though ...
Another option is the quick change wheel setup. I have that on my T4 and man I love it.
here you go:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10137815-post124.html
Another option is the quick change wheel setup. I have that on my T4 and man I love it.
here you go:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10137815-post124.html
thanks for the reply, with the quick change setup where would i inquire more info on parts and what type of wheels would i need. is it front and rear quick change?
thanks, D
02-09-2012 | 09:39 AM
#478
So just ordered the Avid Bell Crank and a new set of bearings for the FTT4.1 
cant wait.
What are most people running ball or gear diff? I have been using gear in all my 1/8ths (duh lol) so I am very confident with them, I have not played with a ball diff in many many years and am a bit intemidated by them I hear the gear diffs dont require as much work and rebuilding which sounds real nice. Whats everyones takes.
cant wait. What are most people running ball or gear diff? I have been using gear in all my 1/8ths (duh lol) so I am very confident with them, I have not played with a ball diff in many many years and am a bit intemidated by them
I hear the gear diffs dont require as much work and rebuilding which sounds real nice. Whats everyones takes.
02-09-2012 | 09:47 AM
#479
The wheels you would want can be had from either Jconcepts or associated. I am actually going to be listing a bunch of these wheels in yellow with Double dee tread on them soon if you think you would be interested.
So just ordered the Avid Bell Crank and a new set of bearings for the FTT4.1 cant wait.
What are most people running ball or gear diff? I have been using gear in all my 1/8ths (duh lol) so I am very confident with them, I have not played with a ball diff in many many years and am a bit intemidated by them I hear the gear diffs dont require as much work and rebuilding which sounds real nice. Whats everyones takes.
cant wait. What are most people running ball or gear diff? I have been using gear in all my 1/8ths (duh lol) so I am very confident with them, I have not played with a ball diff in many many years and am a bit intemidated by them
I hear the gear diffs dont require as much work and rebuilding which sounds real nice. Whats everyones takes.
02-09-2012 | 10:13 AM
#480
Thread Starter
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,025
From: The 561
So just ordered the Avid Bell Crank and a new set of bearings for the FTT4.1 cant wait.
What are most people running ball or gear diff? I have been using gear in all my 1/8ths (duh lol) so I am very confident with them, I have not played with a ball diff in many many years and am a bit intemidated by them I hear the gear diffs dont require as much work and rebuilding which sounds real nice. Whats everyones takes.
cant wait. What are most people running ball or gear diff? I have been using gear in all my 1/8ths (duh lol) so I am very confident with them, I have not played with a ball diff in many many years and am a bit intemidated by them
I hear the gear diffs dont require as much work and rebuilding which sounds real nice. Whats everyones takes.